Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2011 - Key Fob Not Working / Blue Led On Windshield Isn't Blinking At All
Nov 23, 2016
Key fob isn't working at all blue led on windshield isn't blinking at all. Checked all fuses, wires everything. What could be the issue? Car starts and drives fine just the key fob isn't working
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Just bought a used 2011 Elantra Limited and noticed a scratching sound when the wipers are activated. The result is a small scratch towards the bottom part of the windshield.
I can see exactly what is causing it - there is a spring that allows the wiper arm to pivot and the spring connects to a piece of metal that sticks out a bit when the arm is flat against the windshield. The piece of metal bows out a bit and only touches the windshield for a few inches when the wiper arm is at the bottom of the windshield.
I have tried to bend the wiper arm and also tried to bend the piece of metal to no avail to get the scratching to stop.
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I have a 2011 Elantra Sedan and my low-beams quit working. The high-beams work fine. I assumed the obvious and went to replace the bulbs but they appear to be intact and not burnt out. This led me to believe that it is related to a fuse or a relay. That being said, I cannot locate the fuse/relay in the fuse box under the hood that relates to this. What the fuse/relay is labeled as? I assumed it was under the hood but is it located in the fuse box in the cab?
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I have a 2008 Elantra Sedan Limited. The far right control knob for the direction of airflow does not work anymore. A few months back int would make a short strange noise when switching from the feet or head to defrost, etc. Then is stopped working last month and now it only blows air to the head area. Is there a cheap way to fix this? My brother who is a parts manager at a Ford dealer says it is most likely a faulty switch inside and a dealer only item.
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My car is at 63000 miles and the windshield washer just stopped working and wondering if this is covered by warranty? when i press the lever little bit of liquid squirts out and nothing and when i press the lever again all i hear is the motor spinning. Also if this is not covered by warranty how much do you think the dealer will charge to have this fixed?
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I made the conversion of the regular bulbs to led ( stops, position, turn signals ) but I have fast blinking in turn signals. I know that the led has fewer electric resistance than the regular bulbs so the car takes this like a damaged bulb.
I know two possibilities:
1- A resistance for each one of the led to confuse the system.
2 - Changing the electronic relay
I don't know which one is better. I need a resistance for each bulb? which relay is the appropriate one for this car (there's a lot of references on the internet and I can't find the relay in the hood's car).
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I was washing my Elantra earlier and I noticed water spots all over the windshield when I was done cleaning it! Side, and rear windows too. What can I do to get rid of them? I tried 50/50 water and vinegar, and a lot came off but I still have quite a bit.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
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I did not find a solution to my 2011 Elantra GLS's windshield fogging up when it is raining. Other vehicles I owned would clear the foggy windscreen by simply turning the fan on the windshield setting. No A/C necessary.
However, when the Elantra fogs up while driving in the rain, it requires that I put the A/C on (not in recirc mode) to clear the glass. After it clears, I shut-off the A/C to conserve fuel, but after 30 secs or so, it begins to fog up again.
There is no apparent water in the car, or wet floormats, so I'm wondering what could cause this?
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The car will be at the dealer to trouble shoot why the windshield wipers stay on when the engine is running. Will not shut off! Obvious parts replaced to no avail.
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So recently I decided to add some fluid to the windshield washer tank, but when I added some, a clump of slime fell right in. Needless to say I couldn't do much about it. Now I have no fluid running through the system. What could I do to purge the junk out of the system? And where is the pump that drives the system?
I figured out I would have to remove the bumper to get to this part. In theory I could take it up to the dealership ...
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I have had noise problem under dash or wherever it may be. I am not sure where the exact location because I can't pinpoint it out. I hear the noise whenever I turn on A/C or blower for windshield. Basically, anything which is related to air will make noise. It's like water striping noise. Something like cold water drops on hot metal. You can hear the noise at night clearly but during the day, it is hard to hear but still is hearable. Besides that, the car is quite. The Hyundai service has changed my blower but the noise is still there. The service man said it was hard for them to know what caused the noise but they had no clue right now.
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2012 Elantra GLS ... The windshield washer spray pattern is too low. The nozzles on the Elantra appear to be entirely plastic unlike the conventional ball which I can poke a needle in to adjust it. I ran the hand under the cowl cover and could not feel any kind of adjustment mechanism. How to adjust the nozzles to aim higher.
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Ok, here's the issue, I've cleaned the inside and outside of the windshield with Windex atleast 3 times and it still has a hazy, hand oil smeary, appearance to it. I've also used Invisible Glass with same results.
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I have an 2011 rx350 that had a cracked windshield. I got it replaced and ever since there has been a rattling down by the dash/windshield at the drivers side. Now the guys that installed it are very nice and have actually looked at it 3 times since but still nothing to negate the noise. I tried sticking a rag down between the dash and the glass but it hasn't totally gone away. It does appear to be worse in colder weather or when the car hasn't fully warmed up.
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I just bought a 2007 Santa Fe - There is a red light blinking at the bottom of the windshield (assuming thats the security) but there is also a strange blinking blue light right beneath the rear view mirror that is blinking on the windshield...
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I own an Elantra GLS 2012, and starting a week ago, I noticed my windshield washer was coming out through the nozzles with low pressure (1/2 of the windshield). Yesterday one stopped working and the left nozzle is "spitting" (1/3 of the windshield).
I thought they are clogged and today I tried to unclog them using computer air cleaner, but air was coming out through the left nozzle with pressure and nothing through the right nozzle. When I tried to wash my windshield, no pressure on my right nozzle and low pressure on my left nozzle. Same as before.
I plugged off the tube from the hose connector under the hood, and if I pull back the control bar, I have a stream of washer liquid over 3m (10ft) long, but if I put my finger on the hose, I don't have pressure on the windshield washer.
My question is: the nozzles are clogged or the pump is dead?
I know the clogged nozzles are not under warranty, but what about the pump?
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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I have 2011 Elantra that the cruise control is not working properly. It started out that I had to slap it to get it to work. I have to push the Resume button to turn on, Cancel button to set, set button to resume and the on/off button to cancel. Was told I need a new switch assembly. Done that and same problem. Shop checked brake light switch and said it was working properly, but I think they just meant for the brake light and it was not sticking. Even had steering wheel pulled and put dielectric grease on the wiring harness.
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I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
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