Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2011 GLS Stalling At Low RPM
Apr 17, 2014
I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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When first drove the new Elantra, I stalled it more than should. At first I figured I was just new to the feel of the clutch, and not in tune with the hints of RPM given by the motor's sound, etc.
A couple of times after stalling, I pulled the shifter to a middle neutral, and then back in 1st, and now it really felt like it was in 1st. Eventually, I developed a quirky habit of shifting out of 1st to neutral and back to 1st every time I stopped. My kids commented on it and they don't even drive.
A couple of times I've cautiously done this test, and it proved my suspicion. Suppose you are coasting at a speed of around 40 mph or 60 kph, and intend to come to a stop ahead. I typically push the clutch in and coast, then brake. Somewhere along the coast to stop, I will also put the gear into 1st. I've discovered that if the gear shift is put into 1st while the coast speed is sufficiently high, the actual gear selected is 3rd. Then, when you start to pull away from the stop, the engine stalls.
If anyone tries to reproduce this shift into 3rd when 1st was intended while still coasting, be careful and let out the clutch slowly at the early part of the release so you will get a hint from the engine RPMs what gear it is heading toward. I don't want to be responsible for wear and tear on your transmission/engine or accidents. I've only attempted this test on a road with no traffic, myself.
Although what I am claiming sounds wacky, I think it is possible, given that transmissions over the years have been moving towards electronic rather than physical linkage.
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2015 Elantra, 3100km. I was running low on gas, but had 50km left on the "range". About 500 meters from the gas station I ran out of gas. I started up again and made it to the pumps and stalled.
Once I filled up, it took a while to get the car started. Once it did it stalled whenever I drove and slowed down. I can start the car in neutral (it's a manual) but when I go to drive it stalls. Engine light is on.
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We had some unusually warm weather and a lot of rain. After work I was driving home in my 2012 elantra limited and stalled in some flash flood water. This was not deep enough to come into the car. When I hit the water the splash went in the intake and I stalled out. I pushed the car out of the water, waited a few and tried to start it. I have the push button ignition so it clicked 3 times and did not turn the motor over. I then saw and smelled electrical smoke. All my lights, radio, windows everything work. I fried the starter which I determined by removing and having it tested. I ordered a new one from the dealer.
I took the intake apart and removed as much water as I could. I ran the shop heater all night to dry up whatever water in the motor bay that I could. Then a couple weeks passed waiting on the starter to come in. It's gotten cold and I'd imagine whatever water may be in it froze. The day I got the starter I ran the shop heater again 12+ hours and drained the oil out. No real water to speak of. I also removed the plugs and attempted to turn the motor by hand via the crank and I can only get about a quarter turn in either direction. When I put the new starter in it does the same. Cranks the motor a split second and seizes. Is there something I'm missing? How could I have tied up the motor from a water accident? Is there something else electrical I may have ruined that would prevent the motor from turning freely?
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I just bought a 2011 elantra about a month ago. Overall I'm not to happy with the car. The best mileage I've ever gotten was 31 mpg. And that's with me driving about 70 miles a day on the highway. But recently I went on a trip and had the ac on half way. While going up a somewhat steep hill the car just couldn't get past 60 mph. I had it floored and if I shifted up it would slow down. I couldn't downshift since I was almost red lining it already. Turning off the ac did let me get to about 65 ish. Maybe a tune up would work and how hard it is to due it on this car?
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2011 Elantra with approx 48500 miles on it. Took a trip to California this weekend. On the way home engine light came on. My reader says code B2AAA but can't find anything on it.
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How to seal my 2011 elantra sedan more efficiently? I feel like the AC works so hard just to stay somewhat cool. I have to keep it on Max all the time. My thoughts are, the cabin isn't sealed efficiently and has a lot of leakage points and air just flows out of cracks.
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I have a 2011 Elantra Sedan and my low-beams quit working. The high-beams work fine. I assumed the obvious and went to replace the bulbs but they appear to be intact and not burnt out. This led me to believe that it is related to a fuse or a relay. That being said, I cannot locate the fuse/relay in the fuse box under the hood that relates to this. What the fuse/relay is labeled as? I assumed it was under the hood but is it located in the fuse box in the cab?
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I have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
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2011 Elantra Limited, auto, 15,700 miles. Past couple of days I have experienced very rough shifts in all gears. First noticed on Saturday. Drove about 10 miles Saturday morning, then parked until around 4pm. Car started normally but rough shifts for first 5 miles.
It felt like the car would drop out of gear when shifting, then go back into the correct gear. There was definitely a "pause" before it went into gear, like bouncing up a set of stairs. Problem resolved itself and did not reoccur until this afternoon. Car was parked for 1-2 hours. Same rough shifting for 3-4 miles.
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Just bought a used 2011 Elantra Limited and noticed a scratching sound when the wipers are activated. The result is a small scratch towards the bottom part of the windshield.
I can see exactly what is causing it - there is a spring that allows the wiper arm to pivot and the spring connects to a piece of metal that sticks out a bit when the arm is flat against the windshield. The piece of metal bows out a bit and only touches the windshield for a few inches when the wiper arm is at the bottom of the windshield.
I have tried to bend the wiper arm and also tried to bend the piece of metal to no avail to get the scratching to stop.
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My automatic transmission slipped today. Really worried now. 2011 elantra with 36k on it. It was raining and I was turning right out of a shopping center. I floored it to beat the incoming traffic and the tranny slipped. It hasn't slipped since then and has been perfect so I know the dealer will say they can't replicate the problem. Should I be worried about this?
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Currently have 85k miles. About 20k miles ago I noticed when I have the driver window down I would hear a rattle coming from under the car when accelerating. Doesn't happen every time but does quite often. Usually goes away almost immediately. I'm not having any other issues and with my warranty out I'm not anxious for a drip to the dealer.
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So I have a 2011 Elantra GLS with just over 20,000mi on it. I noticed today when I make a sharp left turn there is a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. Almost sounds like the rotors are grinding on the shields. I am going to the dealer in two days to have it looked at, This is the only situation where I hear the noise.
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I have been frustrated with my Elantra's handling from the time I purchased. I feel that the car is setup poorly and has design/OEM part issues.
I have improved the rear-end "hop" issue by replacing the OEM rear shocks with the KYB Gas-A-Just's -- a big improvement in handling the bumps. But the rear-end solid axle on such a light car is just crap...
I have developed quite a bit of 'clunking' noise in the front suspension.
I am considering replacing the front-end shock-strut assemblies with KYBs -- I'd love to hear if it made a big difference. Also wondering if I should change-out the 'sway bar link' while replacing the shock/struts.
I'm just so frustrated with the way this car handles (I've driven Subaru's, Honda's, and VW's) compared to other cars. I feel it's a combination of low-quality OEM suspension parts, rear solid axle, light weight, crappy electric steering settings, and tires that are too wide and too low-profile for such a light car. (I have the limited with 17 wheels).
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I'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
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I'm having a strange problem with my 2011 Elantra. Twice this month, I've gotten up in the morning and the hazard lights are on. The first time, I thought it was the parking lights and I'd left the door ajar but I went out and checked all entry points and everything was secure, so I checked interior lights and everything was off so I started the car, all good and when I turned it off, the lights went out but an hour later when I went out to leave for work, car barely started.
Since that time, I've paid attention to the lights. They are always off when I leave the car. This morning, lights are on again. Nothing will turn them off except for starting the car. I'm afraid that the repetitive drain on my battery will soon kill it.
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I have had my 2011 Elantra limited since April. I always have the ECO mode turned on. The light fluctuates when driving as I excepted to. I know the actual mode/light doesn't really do anything, but in the last months or so, it will light up shortly after starting the car and work normal but then decide to not light and never come back on until the car is restarted. I have checked numerous times and the ECO mode is ON.
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As I was driving today on the highway, I saw a whitish cloud of smoke come out of the exhaust.......the car seem a bit wobbly after that. It only happened once. the ring around exhaust tip is all black. I am not sure if it has damaged anything? What it could be?
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