2011 Elantra with approx 48500 miles on it. Took a trip to California this weekend. On the way home engine light came on. My reader says code B2AAA but can't find anything on it.
View 2 RepliesI have had my 2011 Elantra limited since April. I always have the ECO mode turned on. The light fluctuates when driving as I excepted to. I know the actual mode/light doesn't really do anything, but in the last months or so, it will light up shortly after starting the car and work normal but then decide to not light and never come back on until the car is restarted. I have checked numerous times and the ECO mode is ON.
View 10 RepliesExperiencing a noisy engine....especially when braking or coasting to a stop?
View 5 RepliesI'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a used 2011 Elantra GLS and am having some issues that the dealer cant resolve. What is happening is the the Check Engine light comes on and off. It will be on for a day or so, then go off for a day or so, so I am thinking its the gas cap. So I tighten that thing up as good as I can and pulled the negative battery terminal and problem solved. About 2 days later, and about 200 miles later on the same tank of gas, the light pops back on. So I call the dealer and took it there the next day.
On my way to the dealer, the light goes out. They try and pull the code, but the ECU is showing nothing. I asked if the ECU stores codes and I was told that when the light goes out on its own it clears the ECU of the code. Not sure if that is true, but that is what I was told. So I drive the car home. I fill the car with gas, drive about 100 miles and the light comes on. I call the dealer the same day, take it over, and on the way like the car knows it goes off and guess what? Dealer cant do nothing.
Now to make a long story longer, this is what I know. The car is not a CA car. It was sold in GA and was a prior rental. It ended up in CA and was sold as a certified pre owned from a Hyundai Dealer, I actually bought the car from a Mitsubishi Dealer and they dealer traded for this car (thats another long story) the carfax does show that it failed emissions but passed after several attempts. Which I thought was odd on a ULEV vehicle. Since I liked the car so much and the price was good, I bought it since it did pass smog eventually.
Once I get the car home, I do my usual thorough look. I clean everything to my standards. I am cleaning the engine compartment and took the engine cover off. 1st thing I noticed was the Spark Plug Coil Packs all the 10mm bolts that hold them in were loose and 2 of them were completely off!! So I decided thats odd, so I pulled the plugs out and they were the NGK's so just in case I put a brand new set of the NGK laser Iridiums back in and tighten everything up. Then I notice where the PCV valve is on the valve cover, the hose that goes to that to the intake tube does not look stock. The hose looks like fuel line hose that someone put on it and the clamps are not stock. So I am canvasing for OEM replacements of those parts now. Then when I was installing the mud guards, on the drivers side rear tire where the gas filler tube is I notice another non OEM clamp. So someone was messing with this area of the car too.
The car is averaging 26-28mpg's in the city and I have been getting 35-37mpg's highway so I don't think there is anything major wrong here. I believe that either the PCV valve hose is kinked and may be causing a fault, or that since it was a prior rental that people were over filling the gas tank and maybe blew the expansion valve in the gas tank, causing the fault. I have no way to prove this since the light goes on and off and clears the ECU every time I take it in.
I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
View 2 Repliesengine light came on 3 days ago....engine/transmission seemed to be "misfiring" a bit.....engine light went off after 3 days.....took in today, computer says some "transmission sensor/module" not working properly.....will take 3 hrs to repair but warranty covering it.
View 7 RepliesSo I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesCheck engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
2013 Elantra manual. 60,xxxkm, owned from new, purchased in August 2013. Oil changes always done within 5-7000km. Was 2000km over my oil change due date when this happened (haven't had time to get it done, been driving my motorcycle mostly). Driving around today I dropped my wife off, then I heard a quiet ticking noise under very light acceleration.
The noise would go away under normal acceleration, no noise while revving, and no noise while engine braking. The noise got worse after about 5km. I was in traffic and engaged the clutch into first gear, the car stalled violently. Turning the key results in a click, then nothing. In 1st gear the car will not roll forward. In reverse the car will not roll back. It still rolls in neutral. Had it towed to my local Hyundai dealer and got a rental. Waiting on the results.
Never saw a drop of oil on the ground while parked, and never smelt any oil burning. I run between 87 and 91 octane, whichever is available. I have the extended 160,000km 8yr warranty, hopefully this is covered as I still owe about 15g's on the car.
So as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
I bought a certified 2011 Elantra GLS about a week and a half ago. Previously a one owner lease with just under 27k on it.
While driving to work this morning I was stopped on a slight incline in traffic. When traffic started to move I gave the car a tiny bit of gas and the car stalled. I could only move the gear to Neutral. However, when I did, the car started right back up.
I don't think it was a low gas issue as I have about 3/4 of a tank in there.
When I got to work I drove super slowly around the parking lot and was able to replicate the stall multiple times. It seems when giving it barely any gas the car stalls out. It happens at 1000 RPM and I think it's when it's trying to decide to shift into 2nd or stay in 1st. Again, I was moving super slow (< or around 5mph) while barely pressing on the gas.
Is this something "normal" where enough gas just isn't getting pushed through? Is it something I should mention when I take my car into them Saturday to get detailed?
I did notice once or twice in the past week sitting at a light that I thought it was idling a little rougher than it should have been but it didn't really concern me as much. But now with this stall now I'm questioning everything (paranoid).
I just bought a 2011 elantra about a month ago. Overall I'm not to happy with the car. The best mileage I've ever gotten was 31 mpg. And that's with me driving about 70 miles a day on the highway. But recently I went on a trip and had the ac on half way. While going up a somewhat steep hill the car just couldn't get past 60 mph. I had it floored and if I shifted up it would slow down. I couldn't downshift since I was almost red lining it already. Turning off the ac did let me get to about 65 ish. Maybe a tune up would work and how hard it is to due it on this car?
View 19 RepliesHow to seal my 2011 elantra sedan more efficiently? I feel like the AC works so hard just to stay somewhat cool. I have to keep it on Max all the time. My thoughts are, the cabin isn't sealed efficiently and has a lot of leakage points and air just flows out of cracks.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra Sedan and my low-beams quit working. The high-beams work fine. I assumed the obvious and went to replace the bulbs but they appear to be intact and not burnt out. This led me to believe that it is related to a fuse or a relay. That being said, I cannot locate the fuse/relay in the fuse box under the hood that relates to this. What the fuse/relay is labeled as? I assumed it was under the hood but is it located in the fuse box in the cab?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
View 1 Replies2011 Elantra Limited, auto, 15,700 miles. Past couple of days I have experienced very rough shifts in all gears. First noticed on Saturday. Drove about 10 miles Saturday morning, then parked until around 4pm. Car started normally but rough shifts for first 5 miles.
It felt like the car would drop out of gear when shifting, then go back into the correct gear. There was definitely a "pause" before it went into gear, like bouncing up a set of stairs. Problem resolved itself and did not reoccur until this afternoon. Car was parked for 1-2 hours. Same rough shifting for 3-4 miles.