Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2011 - ECO Mode Is On / Light Fluctuates When Driving
Oct 19, 2011
I have had my 2011 Elantra limited since April. I always have the ECO mode turned on. The light fluctuates when driving as I excepted to. I know the actual mode/light doesn't really do anything, but in the last months or so, it will light up shortly after starting the car and work normal but then decide to not light and never come back on until the car is restarted. I have checked numerous times and the ECO mode is ON.
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So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
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I've been driving my 2012 elantra for 3 years now, and the average mpg (on the screen) fluctuates anywhere from 18 to 25 during any given trip (I don't take long trips - after 3 years I only have 14,000 miles on the car). I rarely drive on highways, so I'd expect the average mpg to be in the lower range -- but my lease is up and I'm trying to figure out if this is just a gas guzzler or if there's some malfunction of this tool, or if it's something inherent in the way I'm driving.
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I have a 2011 Elantra with about 18,000Km on it. I'm now hearing intermittent high pitch squealing when driving below 40km/hr, seems to be coming from the right side but it's hard to tell.
It tends to go away when I apply the brakes or accelerate. I doubt it's the brake pads.
I remember some time ago while servicing the car at the dealership after the first two years, they recommend to have the brakes cleaned. I opted to not do as I thought it was a cash grab.
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2011 Elantra with approx 48500 miles on it. Took a trip to California this weekend. On the way home engine light came on. My reader says code B2AAA but can't find anything on it.
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS 5spd with about 175k. Recently it started driving very sluggish. Under any more than minimal throttle during acceleration or load/resistance (i.e. climbing a hill), it bogs down and will decelerate. No check engine light, no codes, etc. I have replaced the TPS, catalytic converter, Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, and fuel pressure regulator. Without any codes, I am at a dead end. I also unplugged the MAP and threw the code for it so I know it is functioning.
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So anytime I accelerate out of the 'Eco' mode, the car is very rough and loud! 2011 Elantra GLS. Stock. Haven't had it to the dealer yet to discuss. 24,000km. Other than that it's fine.
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My car just started doing this. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm at around town driving speeds or if I'm on the highway. The car does it in both recirc (max A/C) or in normal. I want to try changing my fliter first but I don't knwo where it's located or how to do it.
The car is a 2008 Elantra with 64K miles on it.
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When I first got my generation III, I had it on Eco. I found this hard to adjust to after being in a Camry. So I got the car out of Eco mode, but didn't put it in either EV or Power mode. I've been assuming this is OK for over 35,000 miles now. Is there something wrong in what I'm doing?
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I just bought 2011 Prius III on black Friday and still not familiar with auto climate. Everytime I press it on, the air flow will set to blow in foot mode so I press mode button to change it back blowing the air from the front. By doing that the auto climate control light is turn off. Can I use auto climate with air flow from the front vent instead of blow down to the foot?
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I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
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Since a couple of weeks my GEN III feels 'slow' ...
Let's explain... when I'm driving in normal mode (without the use of any 3 buttons) it feels like the car is driving in eco-mode. Been to the dealer but they can't find it and they say it's just fine...
So now I'm driving constant in power mode, it's killing my consumption but without power mode it's just not the same as before in normal mode.
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In the morning when I start the car it idles rough, revving up and down from stable to almost dies from no gas but after 10 minutes of driving car runs fine ... BMW 530i 5 speed with 150K miles ....
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About 4500 miles ago, I had the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and all the accessory belts replaced and now, the water temp gauge sometimes rises rapidly from "normal" all the way to the "red" and back within about 15 seconds! This is on a 2006 Elantra GT
Should I replace the "coolant temp sensor" or do I have a real problem that needs repair?
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When its heavy snow; which mode I should drive; I have 2012-Prius 3rd Gen - 26K Miles; I am driving in Mountain area every day ? The tires are still in good condition.
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What is MAP and what should it be? Mine is 15.0 KOEO and fluctuates from there to 25.0 or so when driving normally.
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Switch out the Temp up/down buttons on steering wheel ... make them ECO and PWR mode in 3rd gen .... and EV / HV or PWR in Plug-in ??
(leave EV button on dash in regular Prius, not very useful, but place on wheel in PiP)
I say yes, for sure! I'm forgetting about the darn things ... laying to the right of the shifter.
I hear some PiP driver's would really like the EV / drive mode button(s) on the steering wheel. I heard they need to switch to EV and back into HV.
How often adjust temp on steering wheel? Not much here.
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Cars turns off while driving and may or may not start. The voltage fluctuates and dims the lights and such. Now it wont start.
The battery is good. The alternator is good. I put a new computer in it. I don't know what else to do.
On top of this awesomeness, I found this relay/sensor that seems to go nowhere (picture below). There is also a second something or another that you can see in the bottom right quarter (red wire grey attachment underneath cruise control module next to that bundle of wires) that seems to go nowhere. I didn't unplug these.
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Gen 3 .... Driving in Power Mode to obtain the best mileage? I find I am getting better mileage in Power Mode.
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Well, for the past few weeks the weather in Los Angeles had been a little on the cool side. I didn't notice the cooler weather, but I noticed that the computer says I was getting around 51 MPG for almost the entire tank (the warning was blinking so I think I used about 10 gallons).
Then today, the temperature rose to around 90 degrees. I noticed the heat. All of a sudden, my computer MPG rose to slightly above 52. I think that would be difficult to do as it must average out the entire tank an extra 1 MPG. And correct me if I'm wrong, but if I got 51 MPG over 10 gallons of gas, in order to raise the gas mileage by 1 MPG in the next gallon, I must get around 62 MPG for that last gallon.
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So I noticed a few days ago when driving the turbo around that the temperature gauge fluctuates... ALOT. it will warm up to full operating temp, then when driving will go way down, almost to the cold line again and SLOWLY rise up, and when I mean slowly, I mean it takes about an hour or so to get there.
Well today, I changed the oil, there were about 2 qts in there but the car was about 2k overdue. MY BAD! So upon driving around seattle/bellevue/redmond today, noticed the gauge doing the same thing, and I am stumped, IDK why it would be doing this, the car doesn't overheat or anything.
Also, the girlfriend said that when she was driving the car, in the warmer weather, even while moving the temp gauge read almost hot, and the car was telling her to shut it off etc... I seriously am at a lose here.
The other night we noticed the TAIL light was out, but the brake light still worked. Last night we were out with some friends, they said that the TAIL AND BRAKE lights were not working, but ONLY on the drivers side, the passenger side worked as it should, we also noticed that when we hit the brakes, the front drivers corner light comes on and stays on until we take our foot off the brake.
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