Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2011 - Air Conditioning Is Not Blowing Cold Air
Apr 19, 2015
I have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
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So it's finally been nice this week, only problem was it was Humid as it poured for more than 24 hrs the day before. I tried using my Ac but all it was doing was blowing warm air. I figured it was the car being hot since it it black and it was sunny & I did have the car running. I tried using the Ac yesterday and it was blowing slightly colder air but still warm. I don't know what the problem is and so I went to my moms elantra to compare since we have the exact car just different colors and her car was blowing air as if it was straight from the arctic.
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The stock air conditioning system in my 2003 Echo failed abruptly last week. The air no longer blows cold when the system is turned on. I've also noticed that the engine "hum" no longer changes frequency (gets lower because of what I assume is the added load) when I turn the A/C on. I checked the fuse and it looks intact.
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I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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I just noticed this ever since it started to warm up outside. Usually between 4-6 ticks (the lights that light up when you change the power), the whistling is the loudest. It's a very annoying noise and I can't pinpoint the issue. I was thinking it was maybe just some air turbulence within the vent, but even when I put the air to go on the floor only, I still hear it. Wondering if it's something worth taking my car in for. My gf and mom heard the noise as well, so I'm not going crazy. I also compared the air conditioning to my gf's Elantra GT an hers was completely quiet, with no whistling noise. Have this whistling noise with their air conditioning on? It's not really "loud", but it's clearly there. Really is noticeable when I switch between power levels of the air condition.
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Where the Air Door Actuator is located in the Elantra 2014, and How to reach it?
I want to check it as my AC is blowing Hot air from driver side and Cold air from passenger side.
I read that there are 2 of them, one for temp control and another one controls where the air goes, one at the passenger side and one at the driver side...
Which one should i start with, where is it located, and how to reach it?
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My 1.8 2014 Elantra AC started blowing Hot Air from Driver Side and Cold from Passenger side and i noticed this after a battery problem. It all started when battery problem, suddenly both sides warm ac, i took it to a mechanic, he said nothing to do with battery and said it is a freon problem, he fixed it for 1 day or 2, and i went changed the battery, then suddenly, one side hot and one side cold.
Things i tried:
1. Removing AC fuses for 1 hour
2. Removing AC fuses while car on and then turn off car and replace fuses
3. Changed car filters
4. Hot cold hot cold switching technique
5. No freon leakage
Temperature here is around 120 degrees so you can imagine!
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Everything with the vehicle is fine until November of 2015. I noticed that the passenger side is blowing cold air when it should be blowing hot air. The driver side is fine. I thought it was a thermostat issue. At first I didn't change it until I noticed that the temperature gauge was acting up and realized that my thermostat was stuck open which made the engine over cooled. Once I replace the thermostat, I thought it would solve the issue with the passenger side blowing cold air but it did not. Basically its not a heater core issue, blend door is fine, the hoses that runs to and from the radiator to the firewall is fine and the one that runs to the water pump is good. I closed the passenger vents so only the driver side blows hot air. Its an annoying problem. I know the dealer can fix it but they want an arm and leg and it seems like I may be forced to take it to get it fixed.
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Last summer, my air conditioning was blowing hot air. I took it to the mechanic where they added refrigerant. It worked. Last week, it was blowing coolish warm air on the driver side and warm air on the passenger side. I took it to the same mechanic where they added refrigerant. Now, it blows very cold air on the driver’s side and cool air on the passenger’s side. I inquired about a leak, but they said that they didn’t see one, but I could take it back in a couple weeks where they could run a dye to determine whether there really is a leak. They also mentioned that I might need to bring it every year to have refrigerant added.
I read a few articles and have concerns that they would just add refrigerant, (especially a second time) without determining the root cause of the problem. I’m also wary that they would suggest bringing it back every year and at a cost of $110, especially when I read that an unrepaired leak could have an adverse impact on other related components. Prior to reading this I was thinking of adding coolant myself every year for closer to $35. I’m also wondering why the driver’s side is blowing colder air than the passenger’s side and whether there could be a larger issue than just a leak.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
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We have a 2013 Elantra. This evening we washed the car and when we started up again, the heater / ac fan inside the cabin would not blow air. I looked at the fuse panel by the driver's left knee and checked the 3 fuses labeled 'blower'. They were all fine. There are a couple of fuses under the hood that are also labeled 'blower' but I'm not sure which of them might be the one I'm looking for?
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Right now it's 101 degrees outside and the A/C on my Prius just ain't gettin' the job done. It doesn't even feel like it's blowing cool air anymore, just lukewarm air. How can I cool down the cabin more? Temps like this only happen a couple times a year here. What do Prius owners do in places like Pheonix where 100+ temps are the norm?
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I have a 2011 Prius 3 and it keeps blowing fuse 29, its the fuse for the dome lights and then the dome lights don't work and the traction control light stays on. Why this fuse keeps blowing?
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I have a 2013 Elantra with 27,000 miles on it. No problems at all, except once in a while, it idles a bit rough/low.
The A/C never seemed to be SUPER cold, but it was OK. A few weeks ago, I timed it and it took 10 mins on a hot day to even feel comfortable.
So, we took it to our local mechanic. He said no leaks, but it was a bit low on refrigerant. Drive home and WARM air is blowing, plus at a signal, I surged forward, as though someone hit me from behind.
I immediately go back and he was baffled. He calls a few hours later and says it's fixed, something had come loose during the repair or something to that affect. I was stressed and not listening well (I know, bad)
That was about 10 days ago. The A/C has been fine, except for one brief time where it was a bit warm, no surging though.
This morning, it starting cycling warm air about every 3 minutes AND during the times of warm air, it was surging.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I do have an issue with a 2010 Toyota Corolla A/C. It is not blowing any cold air, just ambient air.
Try troubleshooting it by checking the freon on the low port. Reading was very high so it seems like the compressor clutch is not engaged. However, in reading up about 2010 version, I found there is actual no physical compressor clutch. There is also no "relay" to bypass such that you can engage the clutch. Reading further seems to indicate that it's a solenoid system, which I'm not familiar with.
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