So I just bought an Elantra and I just took it on the freeway. At 65+mph there was a huge amount of wobble in the front of the car. It felt like I was driving in a groove in the road or driving in really high winds. The car drives fine under 60mph...
View 5 Replies2006 gs300 AWD , stock everything ,
I am experiencing heavy wobble,front section from 5 to 20 kmh , , like an unbalanced washing machine starting the spin cycle And again milder around 60 to 80 kmh. This is after tire change over to michelin pilot hx mxm4 65% thread .. professionally balanced .
I could still feel it with the blizzaks at low speeds, but way way less. Both sets are 225 50 r17 93v 35psi on original mags as per book
I was wondering if it could have any thing to do with tire wear geometry, or perhaps drive shafts ,but no clicks or noise from them.
I purchased a used 2006 Toyota Highlander AWD about 4 months ago. Ever since I bought it, it has had a vibration / wobble from the front end that can be felt through the steering wheel and acceleration petal. Only happens between 40-45 mph. I have brought it to the dealer many times and every time they balance the tires. Last time they said it was a faulty motor mount and replaced it. The problem has not been fixed with this repair.
View 1 Replies2007 Hyundai Elantra, gets this noise/squeak when around freeway speeds.
I took this short video, squeaking starts around half way in: Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
This is a really annoying noise .
I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
Couple of days ago I started hearing a wobble noise coming from the right front. Almost sounds like a worn wheel bearing. Driving the car there is no signs of misalignment, and unbalanced wheels. Haven't hit any curbs or large potholes.
View 15 RepliesMy 2005 Malibu Maxx LT started shaking on the front end for about the past month. I took it on the highway the other day and realized that the faster I go the scarier it is to be driving it. Apparently this is a"Maxx thing" from what I have read online, but GM does not acknowledge that this happens to many owners of this vehicle and refuses to offer any solutions or reasons. So now I am stuck with it and need to figure out how to fix it.
The 2 mechanics I have taken it to assumed I was referring to the tires and said the tires look fine and there is nothing wrong the the bolts. The first guy gave the bolts a slight tightening and sent the silly woman on her way. The second guy I made drive it, he took it for 2 minutes and he said it is just lousy pavement we have in this area and that I was being paranoid. Could this be caused by tie rod issues, or maybe rack and pinion?
Have been battling this for months. Thought it was warped rotors, but has continued to go crazy. Truck is fine until braking at freeway speeds to 0 at about 35 front end goes crazy with shakes. Wheels physically wobble. Thought it was bearings replaced them. Put on rancho 9000 shocks replaced all steering and tie rods had aligned. Put on EDC slotted and drilled rotors with yellow stuff pads, new calipers. Each time worked for about 15 miles than started again until crazy wobble. Scaring the wife and kids to point they will no longer ride in truck. Steering is now slack need to adjust and probably need to look at everything again but it still is rectifying symptoms not problem.
View 5 RepliesSo I replaced the stabilizer bushing on my 2005 Dodge Caravan, as there was a bit of clunking and some wobble in the front end. I'm sure there's more to do (other suspension parts to replace), but the bushings were obviously worn when I looked at them. The clunking is gone, and the suspension feels better, but now the bushings make a scrunching rubber sound when I drive over uneven pavement and also when I first accelerate. I assume its the stabilizer bar flexing, but also assume I shouldn't be hearing it. After all, who would want new noisy bushings? Nothing else is new on the front end (except rotors and pads).
View 19 RepliesI'm at 66k, 09 sonata gls, starting to notice a squeak here and a wobble there- I'm curious- what suspension work have you done in the 60-90k range? I have a 70 mile commute in DC so my car does a lot of stop and go. I want to take care of it and maximize life, so I'm just looking for any more common problems within the suspension.
View 7 RepliesI was wondering if a bad/leaking steering rack would cause a clunking sound when turning. Also if the rack is bad how many hours should it take to change?
When I am making turns I hear a clunking noise coming from the passenger side and the boot has oil on it but the fluid in the reservoir doesn't seem low.
When I am driving there is a lot of vibration and when I go over 60 the front end starts to wobble.
2011 Elantra 86k ... Ever since I bought my car in 2013 I noticed when I would accelerate on the freeway, my battery light would flick on for a second, then go away when I would let off the pedal. Not every time, though which made me not think much of it. well recently my car would die if I left it sitting for a day. I assumed it was the battery so I got a new one. everything was fine until I woke up one morning and my car was dead again. so I looked up my problem online and nearly everywhere said it was probably because of a bad alternator, which also explained why the battery light would come on when I accelerated. so I took it to a mechanic and he tested it and said it was testing low. So 425 dollars later it was fixed. Haven't seen the battery light come on when I accelerate anymore.
This morning around 6am my neighbor texted me and said my tail lights and head lights were on. this is impossible because we had been out front last night and we would have noticed this then and I didn't drive anywhere else after that. Why would my lights be coming on by themselves? I've already spent 180 on a new battery and 425 on a new alternator and this whole time it was because my lights had been turning on by themselves??
Took my 06 Outback (106K miles) in to have the right front inner & outer CV boots/axle assembly replaced (one of the boots had torn open and was slinging grease everywhere, so no surprise there). When I was driving home after picking the car up, I noticed what felt like a wobble or shudder that seemed to come from the center or right side of the car (I couldn't tell which). It would only happen while accelerating, kicking in at about 20mph and then seeming to go away at about 30mph. It didn't happen at all while coasting, braking, or decelerating. The more of a load there was on the engine, the worse the wobble/shudder was, and if I accelerated very very slowly it wouldn't happen at all or would be just barely perceptable. I didn't feel it in the steering wheel; it was more like something felt through the seat and the car itself, if that makes sense.
So I took the car back to the shop the next day, and although the owner of the shop said he drove the car and didn't notice anything, he decided to go ahead and do the job over under warranty just in case they had installed a bad axle or had otherwise "botched" (my word, not his) the job. He also rotated and rebalanced the tires on the off chance that's where the issue was. Within about 15-20 minutes of picking up the car the 2nd time, I started noticing the wobble/shudder again, always under the same conditions as I've already noted--only while accelerating, always kicking in at about 20mph and going away at about 30mph, and always worse the more of a load there was on the engine/the faster the acceleration. The only additional info I've been able to glean is that it doesn't ever seem to happen when I drive the car first thing in the morning, but starts to happen as the car warms up.
At a complete loss, I crawled under the car and starting looking and poking around for something that might be loose or knocking around. I was particularly interested in determining if there was any play in the U-joints or some kind of damage to the drive shaft. I didn't notice anything except for this--at different points on the drive shaft there are what I assume are balancing weights welded to the shaft. Well, I found a bare spot toward the rear end of the shaft that seems as if a weight used to be there (although I can't say with 100% certainty). The drive shaft is painted entirely black, as are the weights, except for this one shiny, bare-metal, square-shaped spot. "AHA" I thought to myself...balancing weight broke off (although how that would happen beats the heck out of me since it's fairly well-shielded from road debris...maybe it was just a cr@ppy weld), now the shaft is out of balance, hence the wobble/shudder. However, the more I thought about it, the more I wondered...if the shaft was out of balance, why would it only wobble while accelerating? I understand why it might only do it at certain speeds, but if a shaft is out of balance, shouldn't it wobble/shudder at those particular speeds regardless of whether I'm accelerating, decelerating, or coasting? And why would it not seem to happen until after the car had been driven for 15 minutes or so and had warmed up? Again, it seems like an out-of-balance drive shaft is going to be apparent regardless of the operating temperature of the car.
So, could I be on the right track? And if so, is the fix as simple as welding a new weight on there? Can this be done with the shaft still on the car? I think Subaru considers the shaft a non-serviceable part, but I don't want to trash and replace an otherwise perfectly good shaft for what seems like a pretty easy fix (albeit one that is probably beyond my own abilities).
Off late my Honda Odyssey steering wheel wobble beyond 60MPH ONLY while going STRAIGHT and foot off of the GAS (which enters eco mode).My mechanic looked at it and said, it is not alignment or any mechanical issue. I looked at the other posts and I could not find any closer to this.
One more thing, I have got the Steering Pump fixed as part of a Recall ( at slow speeds, while turning makes a lot of noise)
I have a 2012 Camry LE 4 cylinder non-hybrid at 31,000 miles. I was changing the oil yesterday and noticed a repetitive squeaking noise from the front passenger side of the engine. Upon looking closer, the belt tensioner has a constant wobble. Maybe around 1 cm of deflection with the belt. The AC condenser was running. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the tensioner? If so, what the torque spec is for the main tensioner bolt (pivot bolt)?
View 1 RepliesHave a slight clunking sound in the front of elantra, only noticed it yesterday and is only there at start offs and is there in forward and reverse motions. May be more of a click like sound at times as well.
View 22 Replies2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
View 3 RepliesI have a weird problem with my alignment. I have had this car about a year and in April put my summer wheels on. I have a staggered set of rohana's 20x9 up front and 20x10.5 in the back. When I took the factory tires off I could see inner tire wear. I figured just needed new tires cause I don't feel any pulling or known alignment issues.
After a few months I started getting a little wobble in my wheel and more road noise on the summer wheels. When I finally got it looked at just the passenger rear tire had inner wear. I took it to get aligned and the alignment shop said this thing is really good it was all in the green. They did do a little adjustment but nothing major. Showed me the print out and everything. My car is not lowered at all. I've attached pictures......
I am getting frustrated with a loud banging noise in the front end of my Elantra. It happens when I hit bumps or dips in the road. I have replaced struts, bearings and mounts, sway bar links, control arm bushings and nothing will fix it. The ball joints and tie rods are tight.
View 7 RepliesWhen Rolling Either Of The Front Windows Down For The First Time Of The Day, It Sounds Like The Window Glass Is "Sticking" To The Weatherstripping When Rolled Down. Hence The Cracking Sound, I Can Only Assume Something Is Loosening Up In The Door.
View 15 RepliesHad the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.