Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Water Leak - Engine Would Not Speed Up / Running Slow
Mar 10, 2012
We began to have an issue today with our 2010 Elantra. While driving, the Check Engine, Check Coolant and EPS lights all came on. The engine then would not speed up but run slow. The tachometer stopped working.
It was coming into our neighborhood, so we got it to our house. After checking around under the hood (fluid levels, etc.), all looked good. Then we noticed that the mats and carpet are wet up under the dashboard on both the driver and passenger sides. When I reached up into the dashboard over the wet areas, I feel water all along the wiring, etc.
I am guessing that water has leaked in somewhere, maybe after the rain storm last night. We have had the car two years and less than 15K miles. Why and where water would be coming in?
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1) It's a very slow leak.
2) I am under Power Train Warranty for another year (Certified Pre-Owned).
3) My friend is a mechanic who will fix it for free as long as I buy the Water Pump.
But I worry Toyota is going to give me a hard time and say it's something else not covered by warranty or say it's not you water pump but the radiator, which shows no sign of leakage and is not covered by warranty.
My friend showed me the bolts that were corroded white on the pump with a mirror and flash light. I buy the water pump and he installs it for free or go to a Toyo dealer where you don't know what to expect?
2006 Camry LE 4 Cylinder, 48,000 miles---I know Toyota makes junk Water Pumps.
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I posted the following issue a year ago about my car, but the problem continues. when my 06 v8 phaeton is cold, there is variable engine rpm's with my foot steady on the gas at low speed and a flat surface. ie 1500 to 1700 to 1500 to 1700 etc. i can hear it feel it but it's subtle. the engine starts easy and runs perfect otherwise.
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I just picked up a 2010 Elantra with only 74,000kms on it. During the safety inspection the mechanic noticed that the car was leaking oil from the lower half of the engine. Are there any common spots I should look for a leak? The car didn't smoke or appear to burn any oil on the 3 hour drive home, and still appears to be full when checking the dipstick.
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My 1982 Ford Granada has a slow, external antifreeze leak that I can't seem to pinpoint. It happens only when the car is running and warmed up (pressure in the system). It dosen't leak when cold and sitting. Are leak stopper additives any good? Or, will such additives clog my radiator (fairly new) or ruin the water pump or thermostat?
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One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
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I have a 2001 Elantra gls which I bought a year ago. It had shifting problems from 2nd to 3rd gear with CEL on. I replaced the input and output speed sensors and connectors and fixed the problem to a point. It was still shifting a little hard even after a fluid change with SP111. I added 2 bottles of Lubeguard red and it has worked immensely almost to the point of no problems....except. At slow speed shifting like going into a store parking lot or on a freeway with stop and go traffic, it will shift hard from 2nd to 3rd (I think) maybe 1st to 2nd not sure. If accelerating at normal speed shifts fine. No cel and the tranny fluid is on the full mark, not overfilled. Would a wheel speed senso cause this or damaged clutch pacs maybe?.
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I came off the turnpike the other day stopped at a light and my car, 2006 Hyundai Elantra 175000 miles, started rolling backwards. I put my foot on the gas and there was no movement. Put the car and park and it wouldn't start. I pushed it into a gas station and the attendant (attendant, not mechanic there was no service station) changed the oil and added some coolant. The car then started up fine and I was able to drive a quarter mile to work. When I was driving home I immediately noticed that there was a change in acceleration. It takes forever for the car to speed up... Pedal to the floor and it is lagging greatly. It seems to be going up to 4500 rpms just to reach 40 mphs at a slow pace. Once the car gets up to 60 mph the rpms drop to normal. I haven't gone faster than 60 mph in it since this happened, but it seems to handle fine at that speed. The issue is getting up to that speed. I don't know if it is related, but the air conditioning is very weak since all this happened. I have to turn it off when I'm accelerating now. I've been planning on buying a new car soon, but I want this one to last just a little while longer.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra and have noticed that my cruise control doesn't slow me down when I am going downhill, is this normal?
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I have a large puddle of water under the spare tire. This happened a couple of months ago and I took the car to the dealership. They said it was a seam above the rear tail light that wasn't properly sealed. They re-sealed. I checked it every couple of weeks and no water but heavy rain over the past few days (car sitting) I decided to check again and there is more water than previously noticed. It looks like it's dripping down the side of the spare-wheel area.
First noticed at 1300KM now again @ 17000 KM Elantra 2013 GT GLS....
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My son has a 2007 sonata v6, daughter has one too. Both have about 130K miles, and both developed slow coolant drip leaks. I took off both hoses on both cars, cleaned the crud from the housings and replaced with new hoses and clamps. Problems solved in daughter's car, not so in sons car. I note that it looks like the area below the thermostat housing is wet - and thought that was from the crud/hose situation. But he is still losing coolant, even more now that its getting colder at night, and I's sure its not the hose connection anymore.
The car will generally NOT leak when hot, only as/when it cools off. I.e. puddle in the morning situation.
Looking at the diagrams, it looks like that "housing" is really a connection to the crossover pipe, heater hoses, other stuff (throttle body heat) and also contains what looks like a temp sensor.
I suppose any of these are possible, but my first thought was either a leaky temp sensor (or possibly loose) or something more serious like a cracked housing, leaking o-ring, gasket etc.
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My 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition has a lot of squeaks from the front. Most noticeable at low speed going over speed bumps or potholes. My mechanic has checked front end and says noise is coming from rear cradle bushings and wants to drop rear cradle and inspect/lube bushings. Also says sway links are dry and recommends lubing these as well. Everything else is OK. Estimate is $100-$150. Other than the annoying squeaking (which I can live with) is there any other reason (safety/mechanical) to get this done?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that squeaks when I turn left while in motion. It squeaks regardless of the degree of the turn but is more noticeable at slower speeds. The squeak isn't a screech so I don't think it's a belt. it isn't a grinding noise either. More like a "squeak, squeak, squeak." Seems to squeak with the rotation of the tire.
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I have a 2001 f250 last night we had a good rain and this morning as i was backing down the driveway water came running down the passenger side floor board from under the dash i cant seem to find where it came from on the inside and can not find any standing water under the cowl where could it be coming from?
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When I'm driving and get above 50-60 I will get the Check Engine Light. Check the codes It shows 6 ---300, 303, 306, 300, 303, 306. When I slow the car down it is running rough, almost like it has a miss.
I reset the computer while this is going on and the engine smooths out and it runs correctly until I keep my pedal down and then it kicks the exact same errors.
Here's strange part number one: Once I get down to about a gallon or two of gas in the car everything seems to run fine. I have plenty of power, no codes and the car runs fantastic!
Strange part number 2: Very occasionally When I get in the car in the morning to go to work, the car is a bit difficult to start. When it finally kicks over, it is immediately running rough. resetting the computer with the engine running does not seem to stop the rough running. If I turn off the engine and let the car set for a bit it will start and run fine, with the exception of the first problem mentioned in this thread. There is no code while it is running rough, but when the Light kicks on as per the first issue mentioned, I have an additional code -- 335. This car has been excellent up until the last few months when this issue developed.
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We had our Timing belt& water pump replaced 5 months ago, due to maintenance book suggestion for our 2006 Toyota Sienna LE, 119,000 miles on her. Now there is a leak in the R & P.
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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My wife has a 2006 Touareg V6.
Noticed a coolant leak a week ago, refilled with coolant, and as of today the coolant warning has not come back, so whatever it is must be a very slow leak. Today I took the opportunity with the unseasonable warmth in Chicagoland to investigate.
Got the T-reg up on jacks and belly pan removed, ran the engine while inspecting the bay, didn't see anything.
After I shut the engine off, however, I noticed a small but somewhat steady dripping coming from roughly the middle of the front of the engine block.
Pulled the plastic cover off one of the pulleys, part # reads: 022 121 341. I couldn't find a match anywhere online, but I got tons of results for 022 121 011, which is the water pump.
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I found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
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I own a 06 sonata with 95000 miles. Recently I've been having issues with my transmission. It occurs only at slow speed when i travel in first gear. What happens is when the car is moving, it feels like it shifts into neutral but indicator still shows D in the cluster. I press the accelerator nothing happens it just revs,no increase in speed whatsoever.
So that rules out slipping issues. Now i narrowed the problem down a little more whenever the problem crops up i shift the gear lever into sports mode, i feel a jerk and car shifts into first gear and it moves. If i dont shift into sports mode it catches gear in about 7 seconds.No fault codes.
And if i rev it high transmission goes into limp mode and stays in 3rd gear till i restart the car.Then i get P0731 incorrect first ratio.Changed ATF 7000 miles ago. Could it be a faulty range sensor?
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My girlfriend has a 2009 Elantra and recently she has been experiencing an issue where somehow water is leaking into the cabin. What usually seems to happen is after a strong rain storm she will enter the vehicle and will notice water on the rubber floor mats on both the Drivers and Passengers sides. No one has entered or exited the vehicle during these storms and the windows are all closed so there should be now way for water to enter the vehicle. Every time this happens it seems like there is an excessive amount of condensation at the top of the windshield, but like I said the vehicle has been closed so that much moisture shouldn't enter the vehicle.
We have taken it to the dealership and they say they have performed a water test and can't find anything, however, the last time we took it in and they couldn't find anything the car sat for most of the day and when we came to pick it up there was water on the floor mats which we then showed to the Service Rep and he couldn't explain how it got there.
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