Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Shift Points Seem To Be Changing On Light Throttle Acceleration
Dec 16, 2012
Noticed this in the last couple of weeks. On light throttle acceleration the 1-2 shift seems perfectly normal, but 2-3 occurs rather sooner than previously, and 3-4 seems to go through neutral (tach climbs maybe 250-500 rpm for maybe a second or so) rather than a solid shift. Getting on the freeway (WOT), seems normal, and other than light throttle if there's a problem with shift points, I don't notice it.
Maybe an issue with relearn/reprogram? Car is low mileage, adult driven, 16,721 miles of easy highway and local driving.
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I have owned my 2008 Elantra for 8 months. I am the second owner and the car has 75K highway miles. I would like to know what the RPM is supposed to be at WOT (getting onto highway).
I have seen it go to almost 7K before shifting. That does not seem normal as redline is 6.5k The trans fluid was changed (by me) with the correct, recommended fluid at 60K. That did not change the characteristics of the high shift points at all. It seems to be just fine with normal city driving, very smooth. A great car overall and I don't want to screw it up as I drive on the highway every day and need WOT to get into 80 MPH traffic.
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I have a 99 f250 with some procomp (325s) that are 12.5 wide with a 6in lift my superchip tuner can change the trannys shift points but I am pretty sure a new gear ratio is needed. I dont do a whole lot of off roading with it its mainly my driving around and highway rig whats a good gear ratio that would work for me
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I had the opportunity to test my mother's 2012 non-GT Elantra automatic. In auto mode when I floored it, it shifted from 1st to 2nd at around 6,000RPM so it shifted too soon. I didn't try it in manual mode.
I have a feeling in manual mode, if I have it set to '1' and I continue to floor it , it won't reduce power at some point (say 6100RPM), but rather will automatically shift up for me?
What are the RPM points that it'll shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when flooring it both in manual and auto mode? I hope there is a way for it to not shift until it reaches it's peak HP at 6,500RPM, if not the 6,750RPM redline at each gear change.
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My 2006 lexus gs 300 has this annoying issue where if i would accelerate with light throttle from a complete stop, the car would kick and sort of shake.. This happens the most and basically every time when i would slow down at a stop sign with using the brakes, then let go of the brakes and accelerate again, the car would feel like it has some sort of throttle delay and then you feel a heavy push/kick like the wheels are confused..
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After a road trip (approximately) 80km both ways, I came back to my home area and filled up and got a car wash. Then I went home. About 2 hours after I noticed the car felt very jerky, and had no acceleration. Then big time sputtering. I turned off the car and waited for it to cool down. Once cool, it just kept on cranking. It started at one point and the engine light came on. And now it only cranks.
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I drive a 2008 Elantra and had a mouse chew the wiring harness from the output speed sensor on the transmission to where the wires diverge from the Engine harness. It was still able to drive but the transmission stayed in third gear, the cruise set light stayed on and the check engine light came on.
I had noticed sluggish shifting before this happened and assumed the speed sensors needed replaced so I purchased the input and output sensors (42620-39200 & 42621-39200) and that is when I noticed the wires missing. I've checked the harness for other potential mouse foolery, took the old connector to the output sensor soldered wires to it and reconnected them to the engine harness. On a test drive after rewiring and replacing the sensors the car still stays in third and the set light is still on however the check engine light is not on anymore. At this point I'm clueless what to do next besides drive it to a dealer.
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While driving around with the 8 speed is350, It seems like the transmission is slipping when changing from 3-4-5 under light throttle. The revs shoot up and then it finds the next gear kind of like someone riding the clutch in a manual car.
This used to happen a little during the winter on cold start but its happening more often even in warm weather. Maybe I'm just crazy but I'm sure its not supposed to be acting this way.
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I have an 07 tiptronic and in Drive "D" the shift points are getting too high for my liking. How do you reset what the transmission has "learned"?
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I'm not familiar with my ford truck as yet. What are the happy shift points in rpm or speed? The old VW transporter manual actually listed it. The VW wanted to shift around 2500rpm. The Explorer Looks like
10mph into 2nd
20 mph into 3rd
35 mph into 4th
Its running 3000 rpm at 75mph in 4th
Have not figured out where to go to OD. Seems to have more ooomph at lower rpm than most cars I've had. Why isn't there a red line or light on the tach? What is the higher safe rpms you can use for hills for example? Am I close?
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I started experiencing a delay in my shift points going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Then today I was driving and my automatic transmission wouldn't shift into third gear...the speedometer stuck at 20 mph...and it would rev all the way to red line, but wouldn't shift.
There is no "abnormal" noise coming from the transmission, or from the drive train. I suspect that this has something to do with the shift points and the computer rather than a mechanical problem with the transmission.
I would like to know what it could be before I take it into the dealer to get it diagnosed.
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I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
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When sitting in Neutral or Park with the engine warm, my throttle goes from idle 650-700 right to about 2000 RPM. I have 14,000kms on it now. The fast idle works OK at RPMS between that OK when the engine is cold so it doesn't look like a ECU Problem.
There is no way that the RPM can be set lower, when attempting to go lower it drops right to idle. The dealer says the TPS is testing OK, but it never did this when new. It used to go gradually right up the scale.
What the dealer TPS testing actually measures? I suspect that it only measures the output voltage to be within requirements of 5 to .2vdc, but doesn't have anyway to measure a linear change in voltage that should be taking place when the throttle is depressed. And since the engine never tries to speed up unexpectedly except under no load conditions like this, they say it is normal and won't change the TPS.
My guess is that the TPS resistor is not working linearly and that the first part of the throttle movement doesn't change the output voltage to allow throttle setting for a lower RPM than 2000 under a no load condition only.
Remember you can only test this in park or neutral with no load and the engine warm.
Further investigation has shown that the TPS output is linear and the ECU just doesn't react to changes in voltage that will allow the engine to run at less than approx. 2000RPM under a no load condition. Apparently all the 2.0 litre engines perform the same way by design.
It would seem to indicate that safely controlling your vehicle with precise fuel adjustment in tight places is not necessary by someones standards.
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For the last couple of years, I've noticed the air flow changes from the floor to the defroster under hard acceleration. Not a big deal. This morning (7 degrees) the airflow was changing under light to moderate acceleration. It's a vacuum problem, but is there anything in particular I should be looking at? The car is running fine, no issues with stalling or hesitation.
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Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS with approx 60,000 miles. Recently, without fail, a buzzing sound occurs when changing the vent control knob from floor to vent and vice versa. The sound lasts for about 2 seconds and sounds like it may be coming from the area behind the steering column. All the climate control systems work fine and the buzzing noise only occurs when changing the vent setting. At this point it is just a nuisance as everything seems to be working fine, but in my searching of the forums can not seem to pinpoint what the issue may be.
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Recently the fuse for the ECU was pulled. From what I have read it reset the computer. Since this happened the car will buck or hesitate during acceleration. What is a good starting point to resolving this issue.
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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I'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
I can see why its not advised while the engine is off (i.e., towing), but if the engine is on, torque converter turning, transmission fluid pumping, I can't see where it would hurt.
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