Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Resistance When Shifting Into 2nd Gear Despite Clutch Being Fully Depressed
Jan 10, 2010
I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
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I have had the habit of manually shifting down to slow my 2005 GX since new. Only have 55,000 mi so not really a high mileage or worn out yet.
Now the other day there was a resistance moving into or out of a gear (can't remember which) at a time where I needed to get moving so used some extra oomph to try to complete the change and seemed to have a resistance ..... and then felt what I guess was something plastic break.
Now the selector does not stay in 4th when moved left but springs back to "D". Also feels as if the spring resistance is less. All seems looser.
What am I looking at for repair and what is really amiss? Where is a diagram to see the broken parts and how to access it? ---- Part #?
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Just went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
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I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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2009 Accent 5 speed 66K miles. This is something which I recently noticed with the onset of winter. When I depress the clutch pedal, I have a very audible squeak. Think old door hinge squeak. So metal is rubbing against metal somewhere inside the bellhousing without enough lubrication.....not good. I pulled off the dust boot on the side of the bellhousing and tried my best to push moly grease around the clutch fork stud, hoping that was the origin. The noise went away for roughly a half a day but is back in full force....funny how cars do that.
Space seems EXTREMELY limited on lubricating the proper area. Or....is this a warning mechanism built into the clutch pressure plate assembly to warn of replacement soon? While I am asking these questions, what is a good time to look into replacing the clutch? The parts for the car seem relatively cheap, if I replace the clutch assembly, I may consider replacing the flywheel and clutch hydraulics as well as a whole system replace/refresh.
That aside, is there anyway to eliminate the squeaking without having to crack open the bell housing?
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I have a 09 Sonata which when shifting once, the clutch depressed but did not come back up. While waiting for Hyundai service to come I tried to move the car down the hill to a shady spot on curb for my son and the clutch started working normally and has for 6 months...
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I have recently purchased a 2007 Gen 2 Prius and sometimes it emits a very annoying squeak. It occurs when the car is stationary, with the brake pedal fully depressed. When inside the vehicle it seems to be coming from behind the glove box. When on the outside and facing the car it seems to be coming from below / behind the electric motor. I have made a recording of it with the noise in question being audible for a couple of seconds at 0:13, and then again at 0:22 until the end. It could be nothing I guess, but this is my first hybrid and I am not too sure what is perfectly normal and what is not.
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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Last couple morning here in Michigan we've seen temps in the low to mid 30's. The last two mornings when I shift between 1, 2 & 3 I'm hearing a clicking noise coming from the clutch when engaging the gear. After a few minutes, once it warms up, the clicking goes away.
I am @ stage 1+ W/VWR intake, but I'm not expecting clutch troubles from that.
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Stage 2 clutch with a diesel geek short shifter. I have started noticing shifting from 2nd to 3rd is difficult. Sometimes it will go into 5th when shifting up from 2nd. Not a lot of resistance but it is more than noticeable. How do I resolve this issue? Am I hurting my clutch if I keep driving like this? Nothing is grinding at all in between shifts.
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I bought my 2005 automatic 4 speed Elantra knowing of this problem and feeling good about being able to track it down. how ever This did not stand to be the case. Start up cold shifts through every gear smooth as silk with know slippage or harsh shifts. roughly 10 to 15 mins after the car reaches operating temp on the gauge it begins to slam into 3rd gear only. Most of the time it is a double slam. Like bam bam real fast but indeed does shift into the 3rd gear then into over drive smoothly. I can duplicate it any time i desire to by merely pulling it back into 2nd gear and manually pushing the shifter back up to 3rd. it will slam every time with out fail. The man i bought it from told me he had this trouble and changed the transmission out with a 500.00 used one and did the exact same thing...
So I felt must be electrical wiring or TCM bad but upon examination i found no codes present to date. he threw parts at it and replaced both input and output sensors based off some thing he read on the net. also he said he replaced the TPS with a TPS from a wrecked car, still same harsh shift. he however could not remember how the fluid looked upon changing it and the filter as he also did that, nor can he remember what fluid type he used. I know shot in the dark right??? What is the actually fix such a hard slam when shifting into 3rd.
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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I recently bought my GL less than a week ago with under 10km on it. Its been great so far but I noticed a weird movement when shifting into 3rd gear (both up and downshifting). It started happening about 2 days into driving the car.
As I shift into third gear I feel a little kickback against the forward motion. It doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to be dependent on the car speed or the speed of my actual shifting. Although it happens a lot more when I shift quickly into third.
I've been told that 3rd and 5th gears are the longest and I might just need to get something adjusted at the dealership.
This kickback doesn't happen on any other gear except third (MAYBE I felt it a little on 5th but I may have been searching for it after being told about 3rd and 5th gear being long).
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I have a 2001 Elantra gls which I bought a year ago. It had shifting problems from 2nd to 3rd gear with CEL on. I replaced the input and output speed sensors and connectors and fixed the problem to a point. It was still shifting a little hard even after a fluid change with SP111. I added 2 bottles of Lubeguard red and it has worked immensely almost to the point of no problems....except. At slow speed shifting like going into a store parking lot or on a freeway with stop and go traffic, it will shift hard from 2nd to 3rd (I think) maybe 1st to 2nd not sure. If accelerating at normal speed shifts fine. No cel and the tranny fluid is on the full mark, not overfilled. Would a wheel speed senso cause this or damaged clutch pacs maybe?.
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Last night I was driving home and decided to show off at a light. I punched it pretty hard, but it wasn't anything outrageous.. anyway, as soon as I shifted to second, my clutch pedal gave out and dropped to the floor without resistance. I coasted it to a gas station, luckily.. When I lifted my foot the pedal rose back slowly. I tried pumping the pedal, didn't work. I looked for leaks, but none were found. I turned it off, put it in first and tried starting it, and it turned over and jumped/jerked forward, a lot like it did right when I shifted into second and it went out. So I'm assuming that its not the entire clutch cause it wouldn't have engaged the engine. It's not a leak. pumping it didn't work so it's can't be a pressure issue.. what is going on? is it my master cylinder, or maybe my slave?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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