Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Replaced Clutch Now Car Won't Start
Oct 15, 2011
A friend just replaced my clutch in my 07 elantra and now the car wont start! it just cranks over?
View 1 RepliesA friend just replaced my clutch in my 07 elantra and now the car wont start! it just cranks over?
View 1 RepliesIn less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
View 8 RepliesI just put a new hydraulic system and clutch in my brothers 2002 Saturn sl1. Now we tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Just barely clicked a few times at the starter. I tried jumping it and checked all the connections I could think of that came off while doing the clutch. Nothing. So as I was pulling him home from the shop I had him try to jump it at a slow speed and what do you know fires right up. When we got it home . Turned it off and again nothing it just clicks. So my question is would it be the starter , maybe battery cuz it had a terrible looking ground connection or is something else misaligned on the flywheel. I wouldn't think so since it started and all the gears worked. Its a manual obviously.
View 1 RepliesI have an 07 elantra and I was going down the road and my clutch pedal hit the floor. I replaced the slave cylinder. Tried to bleed it and there's no fluid coming out and there is still no pressure on the pedal.
View 1 RepliesI had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
View 4 RepliesA few months before warranty expired on my 2009 Elantra I began hearing squeaking noise from clutch (it is 5 speed manual). Three trips to dealer and finally they opened clutch to find bearing being dry and plate dirty - bearing lost seal and all grease leaked.
It was about 50k miles on ODO. Plate, bearing and disk (I said replace it since you are there - I paid for the disk) were installed new. All supposed to be fine... until I got home. Here is what happening.
Fork is "swinging". It does not simply seat in position when released, but you can see it moving.
Clutch - when idle speed, clutch released in neutral there is a loud rattling/grinding noise.
Now, diagnosis at the dealer. They put the car on hoist and claim the tranny is trashed as the wheels were spinning when car was off the ground with engine running and tranny in neutral.
The shaky fork - all car is shaking so this is normal - vibration from engine. Replace tranny and it should be good.
My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore
I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
View 13 RepliesI was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
View 5 RepliesWhen we first bought our white 2013 GT used (21K kms) it made a slight moaning sound when you would start off from a stop while engaging the clutch. Dealer was able to replicate and diagnosed it as a bad clutch release bearing. Replaced it and moaning sound was gone. Free under warranty. Been fine ever since and car is now at 75k kms.
I just drove our other GT (black 69k kms) for the first time in ages as normally another family member drives it. I immediately noticed the same moaning sound when starting from a stop and releasing the clutch. I'm betting it's the same bearing. Is this a common issue?
2006 solara. Just changed both belts. Occasional 1 sec squeal on start. Both belts appear tight.
View 2 Replies2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
View 6 RepliesI had the front timing chain cover replaced, ever since it hasn't started. It would turn over fast a couple times and then drag and then repeat.
Found out the "Tone ring" was warped, it's been replaced and now it just turns over and over and no start but it doesn't drag anymore.
We can smell the fuel, and pulled a plug and can see spark while turning over and I was told fuel came out the plug hole so there is fuel there.
Tried a new cam sensor, crank sensor and battery and no change. Is there something else in the removal and replacement of the front timing chain cover that could be causing this?
I'm not a huge believer in coincidence as the vehicle was running great before this job.
2006 Ford Escape
3.0L v6 w auto tranny.
Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
View 9 RepliesSanta Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
I recently replaced my clutch and I've noticed that occasionally, while downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, I hear a clunk sound that comes from beneath the back seats. Especially if my throttle bliping is not aggressive enough. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesI just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
View 12 RepliesSo I just put a new clutch in my 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l engine and a 5 speed T5OD transmission. The car will shift through all gears fine when turned off, but when I start it in neutral and push the clutch in, it won't shift into any gear. I can start it in first gear though with the clutch pedal in and it moves forward VERY slowly. The trans has enough fluid, and I already pulled up on the pedal to self adjust. Not exactly sure what else could be wrong.
View 19 RepliesI've got an unknown issue with my 07 Accent (1.6L):
There is a low tone noise coming from near the upper area of the engine. It sounds like air or fluid traveling through a hose. The tone of the noise has recently become progressively louder, so that it is noticeable over normal road noise when driving. The noise does not fluctuate in tone or intensity with changes in RPM. However, the tone changes to a higher pitched frequency, almost like a hiss, when the clutch is fully engaged and held to the floor, both when in gear and when not in gear.
What the cause may be? And potentially required maintenance?
I had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta GLS with 125K miles and standard transmission. Just had the clutch completely replaced. After I picked the car up, I ran some errands, turning the car off and on a few times. Then the ABS/traction control light came on. I tested the brakes, which seem fine, and accelerated on some ice, with no flashing light like usual, so that's a concern. Came home and used the VAG software - no fault codes came up. Went back to mechanic, who said the clutch and this new issue are not related, but he checked my wiring, checked for fault codes, and took it for a test drive. Said he did make the flashing light come on. Turned the warning light off. It came back the next day.
My questions:
- Could this be related to the clutch being replaced?
- Is this something I should worry about, or just live with the light on?