Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Pedal Jumps Up And Down When Brake Applied
Aug 26, 2013
I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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I'm the only owner. Since new the rear brakes have never generated even a fraction of the dust of the front brakes. I have replaced the front and rear pads but never had the rotors turned. The rotors aren't perfectly smooth but they don't have any deep ruts.
Anyway, my brake pedal vibrates when I apply the brakes. And the rear brakes squeak randomly when braking even though there are new pads. I always felt they squeaked because there is not much braking power in the rear.
My Durango stops okay. I'm worried about catastrophic failure because of the vibrating.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder and the ABS light comes on intermittently. Not only does the light come on, but sometimes when I apply the brakes, the brake pedal makes a grinding, vibrating sound that I can hear and feel under my foot, and feels as if the brake pedal is going to go all the way to the floorboard. If I quickly pump the brake, it stops that sound and the brake works fine.
I have taken the car to O'Rileys and Firestone and they put it on the analyzer. Two codes come up which indicate that the right front ABS was bad and/or an open circuit. I replaced the ABS sensor, but the problem described above persists. I took it back to Firestone and the same codes displayed. Firestone said it was an open circuit and that I should take it to the Toyota Dealer. I called the Dealer and they want $135 to analyze the car. They won't tell me what they will do in the analysis. I also took it to Just Brakes and they kept it for 3 days and could not or did not do much other than suggest I take it to the Dealership. I have read that the Dealership will probably say the ABS computer needs to be replaced ($1,000). I have also read that the 2007 Camry Hybrid ABS brake system has been recalled, although my Camry is NOT the hybrid.
There has had two fender benders on the left front side and the right front passenger tire hit a curb which bent the tire, but the tire has been balanced (not sure if the wheels were damaged in these minor accidents or if the wheels could be causing this?) Other thing that occurred right before the ABS light started coming on, and the brake issue, is that the air conditioner went toes up, and there were small metal fragments within the air condition housing unit. I replaced the whole A/C unit. I haven't been able to assess if one would have anything to do with the other, but it is interesting that the ABS and brake issue all started within a few days of the A/C unit being replaced.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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My 2008 gs 350 E-brake or parking brake isn't as tight anymore on a hill it doesn't stop my car when applied when parked how to adjust this? I rather not go to the dealer if its a simple fix?
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My right rear brake is making a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. I took the drum off a couple weeks ago and the shoes are just a bit worn. Just getting into the numbers printed on the side of the shoe material.
I could not see any thing that would be making the metal on metal sound. Are there any wear indicators on the OEM shoes?
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Got Elantra GT 6 month ago. Good car, but it seems I have a very common problem of Elantras - lost of brakes. My car has TCS, but no ABS. It started 4 month ago. Car is fine for several weeks, but then within two days brake pedal getting from bad to worse. My mechanic already replaced master cylinder and right rear caliper. Did not work. Yesterday it was third time when I almost (very soft pedal) lost brakes. Today in Hyundai dealer service they bled the brakes and said "that they hope it will work". Their mechanic found air in both (left and right) rear brake lines. So, my question if I have a leak in, say, left line will it propagate to the right line? I am asking because I do not know the hydraulic schema of the brakes and want to collect as much info as possible.
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I have a question about the bleeding the brake? When I washed my E, I usually spray the wheel and the brake part. I don't know it is a good idea or not. Recently, I felt like I have to step further on the brake pedal to apply the brake.
The force is there and Brake assist is still in effect if I step fast enough. I just felt like the brake pedal is spongy. My E is on 36k right now. Do you think wash the wheel often will cause the problem to brake line?
I have confirmed that my Gf's Elantra is easy and ease to brake than mine. At the mean time, her brake fluid is darker than mine. My brake fluid is full and clear. Maybe I should not wash the wheel more often. Or maybe I get OCD too much?
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I have been working on my 01 Elantra for 2 days now. My problem is that I have absolutely no brake pedal at all, it just goes right to the floor. and this is only when the car is running, when it is off I give it a quick pump and i have a nice firm pedal. I installed a new master cylinder, bench bled it and all that jazz. I replaced the rear brakes and a wheel cylinder, I have also bled the brakes multiple times, and mutliple ways. bled the master while on the car and all the brakes while the car is off and while it is running. I dont know what else could be wrong with this. I looked at all the lines and there are no wet spots, no hoses are swelling up. everything looks top notch...i just have no brakes why.
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About 9/10 times when I step on my brake pedal (speed has not made a difference) I can hear and feel a hard knock under my car by my resting left foot. Started a few weeks ago. Haven't had work done to my brakes since May 2015 so I am thinking it is unrelated. What the issue might be?
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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
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I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
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My friend got her front brakes and rotors replaced a few days ago and now the brake pedal is vibrating at various times. It happens when slowing down and at a complete stop. Sounds like the ABS is kicking in to me, BUT is also does it sometimes when driving at low speeds (under 40mph) without pressing the brake pedal. No loud clicking noises, just a quick steady vibration felt at the brake pedal/flooboard.
The service was not done at Hyundai dealership. She is out of town at the moment so we haven't had a chance to take it to the shop yet. She called, they played dumb apparently. I don't know enough about Hyundais to diagnose.
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I purchased a new 2016 Elantra about a month ago. I like the car although the driving position took a little bit of getting used too. Anyways, after 2000 miles my ankle has begun to hurt due to the height difference between the gas and brake. Is there any way to lower the brake closer to the floor to make them a bit more even?
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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I have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
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I've noticed, lately on my girlfriend's 2013 with auto trans, when the brake pedal is down, and then pumped, I can hear and feel a click coming through the shifter. It happens in all gears.
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My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
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