Elantra HD (2006-10) :: No Acceleration And Jerky - Engine Light Came On
Oct 20, 2014
After a road trip (approximately) 80km both ways, I came back to my home area and filled up and got a car wash. Then I went home. About 2 hours after I noticed the car felt very jerky, and had no acceleration. Then big time sputtering. I turned off the car and waited for it to cool down. Once cool, it just kept on cranking. It started at one point and the engine light came on. And now it only cranks.
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2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
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I get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.
Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....
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Noticed this in the last couple of weeks. On light throttle acceleration the 1-2 shift seems perfectly normal, but 2-3 occurs rather sooner than previously, and 3-4 seems to go through neutral (tach climbs maybe 250-500 rpm for maybe a second or so) rather than a solid shift. Getting on the freeway (WOT), seems normal, and other than light throttle if there's a problem with shift points, I don't notice it.
Maybe an issue with relearn/reprogram? Car is low mileage, adult driven, 16,721 miles of easy highway and local driving.
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I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
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2013 Elantra manual. 60,xxxkm, owned from new, purchased in August 2013. Oil changes always done within 5-7000km. Was 2000km over my oil change due date when this happened (haven't had time to get it done, been driving my motorcycle mostly). Driving around today I dropped my wife off, then I heard a quiet ticking noise under very light acceleration.
The noise would go away under normal acceleration, no noise while revving, and no noise while engine braking. The noise got worse after about 5km. I was in traffic and engaged the clutch into first gear, the car stalled violently. Turning the key results in a click, then nothing. In 1st gear the car will not roll forward. In reverse the car will not roll back. It still rolls in neutral. Had it towed to my local Hyundai dealer and got a rental. Waiting on the results.
Never saw a drop of oil on the ground while parked, and never smelt any oil burning. I run between 87 and 91 octane, whichever is available. I have the extended 160,000km 8yr warranty, hopefully this is covered as I still owe about 15g's on the car.
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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Sometimes, when I get on the gas rather hard, my acceleration is sort of stuttery and jerky. It's not a traction issue, and I just got Unitronic stage 1...but I was having this issue before that.
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It's been over 100*F recently, and we just started running our AC on BLAST (Auto, 74*), and my perfect Prius has been giving me acceleration issues... When it's in PWR mode (100% of the time) and the AC is full blast, and I punch it, the car hesitates, jerks forwards, hesitates, jerks again, then eventually once it's over 15-20 mph it smooths out and goes.
Just to add to the chaos, for the first time ever in my life, I actually HEARD the fan from the vent for the battery. It was pushing air out after I parked the car. Never heard that before, ever! I just want my Prius to be as perfect as it's always been... BTW, I pretty much drive the heck outta that thing. I like how it goes around corners and the acceleration in PWR mode.
2010 Prius, 75,000 miles ....
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I notice that under normal acceleration, my cars transmission shifts very jerky. I understand this can happen if your driving stick but I have a TIP. Is there anyway smooth or eliminate the jerks?
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My engine malfunction light has come on.
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2008 Elantra? Only has 17950 miles on it.
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So I have an issue with my 2004 Elantra GT. I failed inspection because my CEL never turns on. Even when first starting the car. I originally had thought the bulb was burnt out, but it started working fine on its own a couple weeks ago. Then 2 days ago, it stopped working again. So, where should I start in finding the problem? I had a radio installed a couple of years ago, and I have had issues since. Like, my odometer button no longer works, and the radio will occasionally reset when I start the car. So maybe I should remove the dash fascia and see if there are any loose or unplugged wires?
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I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
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I just completed my move from Pennsylvania to Denver CO, and my check engine light is lit up (orange) today. It wasn't on for the drive, but came on this morning when I started the car, after a few days in the parking spot.
I heard it might be a gas tank pressure thing, but the light is still on after filling up today. I'm sure it's a result of the thinner air up here, but should I be worried? Does this warrant a trip to a dealership? Or should I just stick it out until my next oil change (in maybe a month or so)?
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My check engine light popped up the other day and when ran, 3 codes popped up: p2414, p2195, and p0170. From what I could gather it looks to be the O2 sensor is bad. This would be the one on the exhaust manifold, correct?
Also, what would cause the o2 sensor to go bad in the first place? My 09' has roughly 65k miles.
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So apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
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Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
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Been having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
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My 2011 Golf R is tuned to Stage 2+ by Revo and has the following hardware modifications:
1. Miltek turbo-back exhaust
2. Larger Intercooler supplied by Revo
3. Autech (spelling??) HPFP
4. Revo intake system with a foam filter
Lately I have experienced the following problems:
1. Difficulty in starting (sometimes)
2. A kind of "flutter" on starting as engine revs settle to the idle level
3. A noticeable hesitation in taking off from stand-still
4. Jerky acceleration immediately after the car moves from stand-still
5. At any speed, a noticeable hesitation when throttle is applied
All the above issues have happened in normal driving. By that I mean NOT hard driving. I drive my car on DSG "manual" shift mode.
Unfortunately customer service from, both, Revo and the VW dealer in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired. What are the different possible causes of the above problems, I can make sure that Revo / VW go through the full list until the cause(s) are identified.
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