So I've installed two set of KYB rear shocks in my Elentra 2008 and the shocks failed after a few days and there is bad noise coming from failed shocks.
My questions: Is KYB the right brand for my car?
I have a 2013 Elantra GLS and from the day I got it, I've felt like the suspension/shocks are just terrible when it comes to speed bumps. In my apartment complex I have to slow to 5 MPH whereas in a friend's Focus, Accord, and 200C I can ride over them at 20MPH no problem. The speed bumps are pretty small and nothing special. The car seems fine with potholes that sink into the ground but poor with bumps that rise out of the ground. Is it just me? Do the stock Hankook tires have anything to do with it?
View 16 RepliesHer 2008 Accent is leaking a thick oil from the top of the shocks. I noticed it when switching the summer wheels back on. The mileage is low at only 36000 Km/ 22500 Miles. Not a lot of use on them. I guess 8 years and the seals just can't seal no more. This car was well cared for since new.
The ride feels fine but I'll be looking for a sale on rear shocks.
My 2006 GX470 just has 82,000 miles on it, and the rear shocks are already out. This vehicle only drives normal roads, nothing rough. It is ten years old, and sits outside. Still, I don't get it.
View 9 RepliesI've purchased my 2006 Sonata (LX) 2 years ago and noticed a very bouncy feeling when I drive. When I hit potholes and bumps I can feel the impact on the lower body, and when turning, hitting a bump would pull the car slightly in one direction. I've read through the forums that this might be normal (?) for 2006 Sonata's? I wanted to make sure if this is common occurrence and if changing the struts would make any difference. Here are pictures of my front and rear struts......
View 19 RepliesOk, just asking a question for a buddy. He has 78k on the truck and the shocks make a strange noise. When one of us bounces the truck up and down on the bumper (simulating a load) the shocks "click". Now I looked and it looks like the bushing may be wore out, and the actual bolt that goes through the upper shock mount is touching the top and then the bottom, emitting the "clicking" noise. Is this just a normal wore out shock, or perhaps a defect? Just asking because I am not as familiar with suspension systems.
View 1 RepliesOver the last few weeks I've been hearing what sounds like a failing pump of some sort when shutting off my '06 GX470. The sound lingers for just a moment after the ignition is cut off, and sounds like a loud, very fast tatatatatatatata. It doesn't always do this - sometimes I don't hear anything. I've been commuting in the GX for four years and I've only been hearing this intermittent occurrence over the last 3-5 weeks.
What this might be? Fuel pump? Air leveling suspension pump?
'07 LS460 130K, started failed 8/15 replaced w/ o'Reilly rebuilt total cost $700, that one failed 12/14, this time went to Lexus Dealer new bill $1700. Both times Battery us up (new) start switched checked out.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
View 8 RepliesI've got a 2010 GTI with xenons, fogs are vag'd to turn on at low speed and when the turn signal comes on. Now there's a loud noise shortly after driving. Go to turn at low speed and noise can be heard and message comes on to check low beam light. Headlight, fog and turn signal are all affected at the same time especially if I'm stopped at a light with turn signal on. Talked to a friend that's a tech at VW and he said its most likely the ballast and when I talked to him and his parts guys they had never replaced one.
View 2 RepliesI don't need the high performance shocks...but I would certainly like competent quality shocks...what would you say?
View 14 RepliesMy wife drives a 2005 Solara 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE. Over the past few years, it has been going through batteries about every year and a half. The batteries have all failed on the load test.
So far, I've removed the alternator and taken it in to get it bench tested, tested fine. I had the full charging system check with the machine, starter tested fine, alternator volts were fine, only problem was the CCA load test (for which the battery was replaced under warranty). I tested for parasitic battery drain several times, got some drain for awhile after car is powered off, but it eventually falls to zero. I checked for voltage drop across the wiring, visually inspected the wiring to the starter, alternator, etc. and made sure the ground connections were tight from the battery to the frame and engine. Everything looked good.
The only thing I can come up with is that the most recent battery boiled over a bit at one point in time because there was evidence of acid spillage. Also, once (and only once), my wife noticed her lights flickering while her car was idling for awhile during a cold morning. These two things lead me to think it must be the alternator (voltage regulator), but neither the bench test nor anytime I test it at home reveals any issue.
Maybe it's an intermittent problem from vibration, etc. I just hate to plunk down the cash for a new alternator if that isn't the issue.
The hydraulic lifts on the trunk of my wife's 2003 SC430 are failing.
View 14 Replies2004 Passat 1.8T ... The unlock part of the remote won't work ... It used to, but won't now ... The trunk release and lock buttons on the remote work just fine though ... I did replace a battery a ways back ... I can't remember if this started happening right after that or not ... I've lived with it for a while now and am annoyed enough at this point to fix it ... In case this comes up, this is the only remote I have for the car right now ... Bought it used and it only came with one ...
View 6 RepliesI have a stage 1+ tune, fuel pump, and intake. I ran into some clutch slippage and I decided to purchase an aftermarket clutch that was designed to mate with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I went this route because I had a single mass on my GTI and it was loud. I figured this would be a good solution to avoid the noise and be able to hold the added torque.
I broke it in as the instructions stated. After break in I gave it some throttle and I notice that there is severe slipping occurring. I have the clutch and flywheel pulled back out and sent back to the clutch manufacturer (they requested to see the flywheel despite it being the OEM one). The manufacturer states that the clutch is fine but the OEM flywheel is failing. They refurbish the clutch and ship it back to me with the flywheel. I take the flywheel to the dealer and explain that I suspect the flywheel is failing and divulge that I have some light modifications. The dealer shows me paperwork that they had behind the counter that says that any transmission issues on cars A, B, C, and D require an immediate contact to their VW rep and an opening of some type of file on the failure (forget what they called it). What's on the top of the list? The Golf R of course. They go on to tell me that they need the car to start this process and they will do nothing with the removed flywheel that I brought to them.
So at this point, my car is in pieces at the shop that I use and I've been without it for going on a month. I will also, obviously, end up having to pay double the labor for the install. I am also going to be out some more money to come up with a viable solution as I still don't have a functional flywheel. So what do I do?
I could purchase another OEM flywheel for about $800. My concern here is the OEM flywheel busting up again and being in exactly the same spot that I am in now. I could purchase a new aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo and scrap the hope of avoiding the noise and sell the refurbished clutch I have to try to recoup some of the losses. Not sure what other options I have, if any.
Needless to say, I am feeling pretty unhappy about this whole thing. I've landed in a place where I am going to end up shelling out twice as much cash as I should have to get a clutch in my car. Burning a couple of grand to get absolutely no benefit stings more than a little.
I have a 2012 Prius Vv. I am having issues of failing door lock actuators and wanted to see if this was a common problem. I have replaced every door lock actuators once and the drivers door twice. Yes you read that right 5 actuators in one car. All have been covered by warranty, but come on. I can't be the only one.
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Acrua RSX, Type S is having a problem that used to be sporadically mysterious, but is now bordering on dangerous. While driving, with the clutch depressed (when I'm about to shift gears or brake), the car will lose power. The first couple of times, this happened only while I was in 2nd gear and traveling < 20 mph, but recently, it happened when I was going 45 mph on the freeway access road, which was concerning because I lose power steering, and was luckily able to muster all of my strength and guide the car to the curb. God forbid it ever happen on the freeway -- I would surely get rear-ended and cause a terrible pile up.
I've taken it to two different mechanics, but neither were able to reproduce the problem, since it happens randomly. One thought it was loose battery terminals, but I checked the terminals immediately after the last stalling incident, and they were tightly secured. The car ALWAYS starts right back up after this happens.
I took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
View 8 RepliesIn the past few days, I've noticed that when my headlights are on the white backlighting of the speedometer, tachometer, and other gauges in the instrument cluster fail to illuminate, however the red needles within each gauge do illuminate properly. Furthermore, the rheostat adjustment does successfully brighten and dim the red needles, but the faces of the gauges remain dark. I checked fuses 23 and 27 and both are fine.
View 24 RepliesI have a 2001 Dodge Caravan. When I put my turn signal on all the dashboard lights fail and the gauges drop as if the van was powered off. After a couple seconds they come back on, then the seat belt reminder ding goes off. I've tried things like replacing fuses, checking the headlights and seeing if a wire or bulb was the issue. Found some wiring in the passenger side seat belt panel and thought that may have been the issue. The blinkers were working for a bit.
Recently they began failing again and so I've just messed with any wire I could find; maybe there's a poor connection or something. I saw some other discussion posted on blinkers and my hazard lights seem to have something to do with this; occasionally if I press the hazard lights the gauges will react slightly; they jump up a little. It's a hit and miss; sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. I feel very unsafe and would hate to be responsible for someone rear-ending me because my blinkers didn't work.
My 10 year old Halogen lights are failing. Trying out LED light strips like the "Kawell - Slim 18w Flood Beam LED Work Light" for auxiliary backup lights?
View 14 Replies