Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Internal Filter In Transmission Won't Cleaned - No Removable Pan
Nov 4, 2015
I called a local dealer requesting an appointment to get the auto trans fluid exchanged and the internal trans filter cleaned. The service rep told me they could not clean the internal filter in the transmission and there was no removable pan on the '07 Elantra transmission.
Is there a servicable fitler on the transsmission? If there is a filter should it be cleaned?
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03 F-250 V-8 Trition ... Once the weather gets warmer all be doing a transmission fluid exchange ...
Does the transmission have an internal and external screw on filter? Or is it just and internal? Also do I have options like a wix internal filter or just a stock replacement? Is it sealed with RTV/ or a one piece gasket?
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Looking for diagnosing an troubling engine noise. Working on a 04 Hyundai Elantra with a 2.0L engine. This is a reman engine installed by the dealer. Engine has ~ 25k on it since install. Orginal one, thrust washer cracked, and crank drove front seal out. So replaced under warranty.
Changed timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys ~ a month ago. After driving I noticed a whining noise. Said Noise is RPM dependant and sounds like a bearing or belt whine. Loosed all the belts still there. Sounded to be in the area of the water pump.
Changed water pump ~ a week ago, noise still present. Removed all belts from crank pulley and noise still is there. Thought it might be timing belt or idler tensioner pulley even though they were new.
Today changed timing belt and idler/tensioner pulleys with a new Gates set again. Left lower and upper covers off of the timing belt. Whine is still present.
After all this I have narrowed the noise down to internal engine. So my question is this, Is there any common internal engine issues that might cause this. I know this motor does not have a balance shaft so not bearings there to whine. About the only thing left is cam/crank bearing. I might add the noise sounds to be lower in the motor, therefore, thinking bottom end.
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I have a 2010 elantra with 60000k that I always had the required maintenence done on it. 3 weeks ago I took it in for an oil change. I just biticed a few oil spots in ground on passenger side and checked my oil level. When I pulled out the dipstick the re was dirt on it or something. its never been like that before. What could cause that? Seems like it happened after the last oil change. Also could the leak be from the oil filter? Heres a pic of the rag after I wiped the stick.
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It is a bit 'of time i notice that the water level goes down more than usual. Lately, the level drops from max to min in a month or so and, in addition, i smell of mold inside the car.
In the past I had the same problem on another car, and it was the tap on the radiator, which leaked. In the case of Rio/Accent, the radiator is a single body, so i suspect that will be drilled. Is it possible to remove it without completely dismantle the dashboard, as happens in many modern cars?
In the past i seem to have touched the internal radiator hoses, on the passenger side, but does not know if there's enough space to pull it off.
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I added a sunroof to the removable hardtop on my 87 Cadillac Allante and love the extra ventilation when I have the top on the car. I was just wondering if it is possible to do the same thing to the retractable hardtop on my 07 SC430.
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I have an automatic 2010 Elantra Touring and I drive 115 miles a day (4 days a week) with it (currently have 38K miles). Part of the drive goes up over an 1100 foot foothill, so I change elevation of about 800 feet on the drive. Over the last two weeks, I have noticed the transmission shifting a little rougher and at higher RPMs (everywhere and not just going up the hill). The transmission fluid level looks good, but I am wondering if I need to change the fluid and filter? Or is there something else I need to look at? I need this car to last another three years and want to make sure I take care of it right. Currently every 3500 miles I change the oil and rotate the tires, but I am just not sure about the transmission.
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Recently I did 2 drain and fills on my elantra HD with 112k miles about 2 weeks apart on the transmission replacing the fluid with Valvoline Maxlife atf. When checking the fluid level it smells burnt but still has a red color to it. Any body else used this fluid for extended amounts of time?
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My auto transmission in my 2007 Elantra with 125,000 miles went into default mode, stuck in 3rd gear. No codes went off. I drove it home this way, but after sitting for 90 minutes, now it works fine. I've heard about the input and output sensors. What should I replace? I went to HMA service to get info on both sensors, but it wasn't detailed enough.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
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Thought I'd ask a quick question here...
Is the lens on OEM fog lights removeable? Mine is fogged up and discolored, so was wondering if the unit comes apart where I can clean & reseal ?
Or just buy a new set ?
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Every oil change i do (well 3 so far) my oil filter is a little oily, I can clearly see the marks coming from the filter gasket. First thing i did was to tighten the filter, but now im pretty sure its over torqued and it still leaks a bit....its nothing to serious, it barely reaches the bottom of the filter, it just grinds my gears. I am doing my own oil changes, car has around 15000km and I am using royal purple 5w-20 with oem filter.
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Is there a procedure for changing the cabin air filter on the 2015 Hyundai Elantra SE cabin air filter? I can't find instructions in the owner's manual.
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Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
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I recently bought a 2nd Phaeton V8 for my wife and took it to the detail shop. They did a beautiful job on the car. My Wife was driving back from an appointment she called to tell me that the car had a bad shutter and the check engine light had come on after driving perfectly for an hour. I took it into the dealer (under factory warranty until 11/21) and they said that this has happened to them before.
Apparently when the detail shop cleaned the engine bay they also sprayed silicone on and around the engine to jazz it up. This apparently causes the electrical sensors related to the spark plugs to short out and fail causing the miss. Since I don't if the 7 others won't fail soon I'm having them all replaced on my dime. Needless to say I will ask the detail shop not to do that again.
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First Hyundai my 2014 Elantra SE. Love it to death. Used this forum to start doing my own car maintenance,
Changed the oil (using Hyundai OEM filter).
Cleaned the throttle body to stop the rough idle.
Chirpy fan getting replaced with new blower motor tonight so while I am in there:
And the reason for my post: Had a smell coming through the vents that just smells like rotten leaves. Changed the cabin air filter. Smell still there.
Where does the cabin air filter air intake go? I want to make sure there are no obstructions or smell inducing things living in this intake.
I guess my question is..Where does the air come in to the cabin from and where best can I make sure its unobstructed?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 96,000 miles and a brand new 2015 Hyundai Elantra.
It had been randomly sputtering for a couple of weeks before this and I thought that the fuel filter/pump was going out. So, I replaced that and when I turn the ignition on gas squirts out of the fuel pump so I know that is working. I then replaced the spark plugs because I don't think they had ever been replaced, but it still won't start.
When I turn the key everything sounds good, but it just won't start. I am trying to avoid having it towed to the shop until I exhaust the ability to fix it myself.
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About a 2 weeks ago I took the 2011 in to Hyundai to get the oil changed. (For the record I brought my own oil and Bosch oil filter). Anyhow, yesterday, noticed a nice pool of oil under the car after the first stop on errands. Looked underneath, and sho' nuff, there was a good little stream of oil. Made a bee line to the same dealership to drop it off. On the way we could smell burning oil and it was running like crap.
The service dept is open on Sunday so they called to tell me it was just the filter, he said probably a "burr" ?? and it can happen. My questions are Why did it take two weeks to start and should I be worried more damage happened? Supposed to pick it up tomorrow so trying to be prepared.
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My 2005 elantra hvt 2.0 has oil leaking into the air filter coming through or near the throttle body, I've been told its an egr valve.
If it is...where is it and how much for a new one and is it an easy fix? If not what could be causing the leak?
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Question? I am getting ready to change my transmission filter on a 2002 camry 4 cyl, do I reinstall gasket dry, coat with fluid, or use gasket eliminator on both sides of gasket or what?
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I have a 2005, I4. At 60K miles did a transmission pan drop and filter change. Now at 75K doing a drain and refill, I realized that instead of the 3.7qt's I need around 5qt of fluid to get it to the normal level. Also drained 5 qt's.
So I am assuming the new transmission filter/strainer is not holding as much fluid as the original strainer.
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