I have a 2010 Elantra and noticed after I start it when it's cold the rpm is about 1800rpm but doesn't drop. I never really payed attention on this car but my other cars would drop after a minute or so. Is this normal on the elantra or is something wrong?
View 7 RepliesMy moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
A few weeks ago I noticed a fluctuation in my car's heater. The heater blows really hot when driving, and blows cold when the car is idling or coasting. I read up on the forums to check the coolant levels, which were full since my last fluid change a few months ago. The next step seemed to be to change the thermostat. I changed the thermostat and the heater acts the same, and since then the car has begun intermittently overheating. The temperature warning will flash on for maybe about a minute, then go back off. I have been running the heater on full blast trying to keep the car from overheating.
This brings me to a couple of questions:
There's an arrow on the thermostat. Does this need to point toward the radiator, or straight up?
In moving the air cleaner housing to get to the thermostat, I lost two of the little clips that hold it shut. Is this critical?
If the thermostat is good, and the coolant levels are good, there's no air in the system and I don't have any leaks, what could this be?
It will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
View 6 RepliesI bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
View 2 RepliesBought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
View 4 RepliesMy 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
View 2 Replies04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
View 2 RepliesWinter temps are dropping my mpgs from 51-53 mpg to the 44-47 mpg range. Snow, rain, slush puts drag on the car, as well as temps in the 20-40s causing the ICE to run more during warmup and during the 15 mile trip I make daily. Also mpgs in town on 1-3 mile trips are dropping into 29-33 mpg range. I guess the Prius isn't made to thrive in cold temps. I don't know if there is much I can do about it. I did remember to raise the pressures in my tires which has dropped also.
View 19 RepliesWith the colder weather in the NE, I am experiencing lower mpg with the ES 300h. We have had several cold days here, and my mpg seems to be going down. My driving habits have not changed.
View 5 RepliesI own a 2010 elantra. I'm going through plugs like crazy. I've changed it twice and the dealer has changed them twice for a total of 4 sets. I have 64000 Kms on my car. The problem is rough idle when ac is on. I'm assuming drag or load on the engine makes plugs work harder.. So the last two sets of plugs the dealer showed me the plug and the white spark plug casing was burned through? Kinda getting sick of the bandage approach the dealer is throwing at me. He said if it happens again which I'm sure it will they will sort it out in more detail to find the cause.
View 4 RepliesRecently my Elantra ac will not adjust and only blows super cold air, so I have to alternate between turning it off and on constantly. Now I discovered the heater will only blow cold air. What are the possible causes?
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
So when I first got my car, the dealer had put in a full tank of gas and the miles to empty range was at 347~. After several fill ups since my purchase, the miles to empty has been dropping every time I filled up. A few fill ups ago, I remember it was 327. The latest fill up was about 318. What gives? Do the current MPG avg affect this number? What is the factor for the variance?
View 17 RepliesGrill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
My car just started doing this. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm at around town driving speeds or if I'm on the highway. The car does it in both recirc (max A/C) or in normal. I want to try changing my fliter first but I don't knwo where it's located or how to do it.
The car is a 2008 Elantra with 64K miles on it.
Standing in drive, engine shakes enough to be annoying in the car. Not a huge shake, but was not there a week ago.
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