Elantra HD (2006-10) :: High Pitch Humming After Timing Belt Changes
Sep 28, 2013
My girls family has had an 08 elantra 2.0 new since 2008 and I've been doing the work. I recently did the timing belt ( July) with beck arnley oem parts. 65000 miles. I replaced belt, idler, and tensioner.
Right after I did it there was a mild hum at idle. It somewhat did this before the belt so I assumed it was just the new belt in plus the very mild hum it already had.
Recently it is humming very loud and high Pitched. It gets louder with higher rpm. If I take the cover of and move the needle on the tensioner while it's running it quiets down a little but it's an auto tensioner and doesn't stay right where it needs to be AND even when it is at the ideal spot it still hums.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
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I have a 2009 Elantra (automatic) that already has 52K miles on it. I drive a lot mostly at highway speeds. I know several people who recommend having the timing belt replaced BEFORE the warranty runs out at 60K miles.
The dealership has a 60K inspection where they "inspect" the timing belt (plus a whole lot of "fluff" checks, tire rotation etc) I'd rather just take it in and get it replaced. What should a timing belt replacement cost?
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2008 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0 it. We replaced a bad water pump, and timing belt while we were there. I followed directions found on multiple websites. We spun the crank shaft to the top dead center mark on the crank sprocket/engine block, and the cam sprocket / assignment mark. Then removed tensioner, and belt. Installed new belt and ensured alignment marks had not moved. Applied pressure to tensioner and tightened. Reassembled everything else. Car started with no problems, drive for about twenty minutes started making clicking sound from under the hood, we turned around to come back home and the car still making clicking sounds gradually started to loose power and speed until the engine stalled and would not restart. Trying to find out what could have happened.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2012 Toyota Camry SE. It is 3 months old and has 2,300 miles.
My husband and I notice a high pitch humming noise that happens mainly on the freeway, when you get over 45 mph. We tried ruling out different things like, bluetooth, radio, air conditioner, wind noise etc. We realized that the noise happens with you push on the accelerator pedal. If you hold the pedal to maintain speed, it does not happen. Only when you push the accelerator pedal. The noise was more noticeable when I drove it up in the mountains and had to push on the accelerator pedal off and on to maneuver turns and up hills.
I figure that we can bring it up to our dealer in October at our 5,000 mile service.
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My Pruis v makes a humming noise. Sometimes. Doesn't happen all the time. Don't know when it will happen. When it does happen, the car makes a humming noise. High pitch and low pitch-no longer than 2 minutes. Seems to be coming from the right side of the vehicle. It is embarassing when we have friends in the car, the noise comes on , and the friend asks, 'what's that noise' and i shrug my shoulders-i don't know.Took it to service. Manager said he has to hear it to determine what/where it is coming from. If it isn't making the noise, he can't tell me where it is coming from. Took it back today and now we have a loaner so he can drive it for a couple of days to try to hear the noise.
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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My girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
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I bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
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I have an Elantra SE 08 and suddenly have an Airbag code: b1361: driver seat belt pretensioner resistant high. How can I check this, I went to scanner, deleted it, but is on again !!
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
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I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
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I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
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When the car is cold & first started, the high pitch noise by the fuel injectors is the loudest. When it warms up the noise is reduced quit a bit.
I thought maybe the fuel injector O-rings are bad, but the car idles and runs fine ( no error codes). Maybe the intake manifold gasket, but the car idles and runs fine. It is a weird noise.
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I have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
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I just put in a new water pump and timing belt on an 06 Camry with the 3.3L V6. After I was done the TCS light turned on and I don't know why. The light was never on before and the car is running very smooth.
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Rebuilt a motor due to the timing belt failing. Everything works except I can't get the timing to line up perfectly.
From what I'm getting from the service manual, line the camshaft sprocket with the mark visible from the hole
Line up the crankshaft gear with the yellow mark at the bottom.
Do I have to do a double/triple turn of the cam/cranks to get TDC to be achieved properly? My biggest problem on this car is having the crank gear shift a couple teeth after tensioning the belt.
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I've been noticing some new noises in my Elantra in the last couple of months.
First, there's a clunking noise that sounds like it's coming from the steering area. It usually happens when I back up and rotate the steering wheel, like when I back out of my parking spot. More often it's in the morning.
Second, when I turn the fan on there is a high pitched squeal. If you turn the fan off you can hear the squeal more clearly for a moment as the fans die down. This one only started happening in the last couple of weeks.
I guess I'll have to take it in and get them to take a look. Last year it was a squeaking in the pano roof which only happened when it was hot out. They seemed to have lessened it but it wasn't gone completely.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles on it. When I reverse, I get a low-pitch growling and as as soon as I apply the brakes by a high-pitch, ungodly screech. This noise is definitely coming from the rear wheel areas. I'm not sure which tire is the culprit (I hear both sides from while listening from both the inside and outside). It happens frequently but is particularly bad on rainy, snowy, misty, or high humidity days. Two years ago I replaced the pads and rotors. At this point, the pads look to have about 40% life on them yet. This problem started happening about a year ago.
My initial thoughts were that it was just rusting because of the frequency on high moisture days. But both noises are way too loud for that. My second speculation was that the emergency brake was catching, but after examining it I think not. I've taken the entire assembly (brakes, rotors calipers, and emergency brake) at each tire apart and looked for any obvious issues that look incorrect. No luck. I've also applied brake quiet with similar results. Now my thoughts are that the low pitch is the rotors being warped. But that doesn't explain the screech and why it only occurs in reverse.
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