Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Gas Pedal Stuck On The First Push Down Only
Jan 2, 2014
I've a wired problem, my Elantra 2008 gas pedal is being stuck on the first push down only, when the car parked for more than 3 hours for example, the first press on the pedal i feel it very hard then it accept the pushing with a sound as if something is stuck and got released, after the first push it become very normal till i park it again.
I greased the pedal but noticed it may be the throttle cylinder at the engine where the gas wire is going around, i tried to accelerate the engine by turning this cylinder and it is being stuck at the first then is loosen, i tried it spray it with WD40 but it is the same.
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I have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
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Just noticed a clicking noise every time I push the clutch pedal down, I had my wife push the pedal while I listened under the hood and no noise it's coming from the clutch assembly under the dash! It's a 2013 only 4000km's on it so it's not like anything should be worn from over use etc. It's when I had the radio off driving I heard it, not super loud but more curiosity if it's normal noise from a clutch assembly.
As well the odd time I hear well my wife heard and pointed it out to me, when I push the brake pedal (more when we get in the car in the morning after sitting overnight) the same kinda sound more like when brake pad's are gently popping loose I guess you could say!? Like I said its mainly only after sitting for awhile, but we did hear it the odd time just as I go to slow down and only a quick 'click' again not deadly or anything more annoying that the car is brand new and we went brand new cause we were tired of creepy older cars we'd previously driven! I'm wondering if that may be exactly why its doing it since its new and need's to be used a bit to loosen up, this is the actually the first brand new no previous drivers car I've had!
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I have a Ford Focus 2006 and when the weather is cool or cold when I start my car the gas pedal is stuck. I have to forcefully pump it several times before it will loosen and depress. I couple of times it froze will I was driving the car in traffic. Just recently I accidently hit the course control button and when I took it out of course control the gas pedal was frozen.
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In my 2010 Elantra, I have the 2 cup holder in the middle with the flap/lid cover that retracts into the side when opening. It seems a pen has gone down in that groove so now the lid does not open enough to get a drink into the holder. Any tips on getting the pen out from the bottom of the channel where the lid folds into??
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Front brakes appear not to release all the way. At Times car does not accelerate . At times car vibrates at 60 MPh.
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It's pretty cold these day where I live (about 2 weeks of -20C and lower). I know that winter can affect gas mileage but right now, I'm averaging about 13l/km (18mpg). I believe this is not normal.
I just bought the car and I noticed that the engine temp looks low to me (see pic attached). Is it supposed to run this cool? I also went to the garage and he checked with a obd2 scanner and nothing was wrong. Could a stuck thermostat be the cause of my poor gas mileage?
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Doing a rear brake job on my 2008 elantra. Left went fine. However, the right rotor is stuck on the parking brake. It is loose, but held on to the springs of the parking brake.
How do you back off the parking brake? Also, how do you remove the parking brake cable?
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I have tried everything I know to fix the mode switch on the climate control. It's stuck in one position and I can't switch to floor or defrost. I've replaced the climate control panel and actuator and I STILL cannot get the modes to switch. I don't know what is is between the two causing it not to work. I've tried everything I know and I just can't seem to get anywhere. I only have a test light to see if voltages change and I can only get the voltage to change on one wire but none of the others.
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I unlocked my 2010 Elantra yesterday afternoon with the fob. Opened the passenger front door. Turned on the ignition to Accessory for a while, then turned off, removed key, closed door, and locked with the fob. Sometime after dark, a neighbor alerted me that the car lights were on. I checked, all the doors were completely closed and the trunk was shut. The key fob would unlock/lock the car, but the lights would not go off (they were in the "automatic" position and normally work just as they should). Pushing the lock button twice would not beep the horn, either. So I turned the light switch completely off, and that did turn them off. Even the dome light would not go off until I put the switch in "off" position. By then, the battery was too drained to start the car so I put it on a charger for a while. This morning it started and all the remote functions seem to work as they should.
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I drive a 2008 Elantra and had a mouse chew the wiring harness from the output speed sensor on the transmission to where the wires diverge from the Engine harness. It was still able to drive but the transmission stayed in third gear, the cruise set light stayed on and the check engine light came on.
I had noticed sluggish shifting before this happened and assumed the speed sensors needed replaced so I purchased the input and output sensors (42620-39200 & 42621-39200) and that is when I noticed the wires missing. I've checked the harness for other potential mouse foolery, took the old connector to the output sensor soldered wires to it and reconnected them to the engine harness. On a test drive after rewiring and replacing the sensors the car still stays in third and the set light is still on however the check engine light is not on anymore. At this point I'm clueless what to do next besides drive it to a dealer.
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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My auto transmission in my 2007 Elantra with 125,000 miles went into default mode, stuck in 3rd gear. No codes went off. I drove it home this way, but after sitting for 90 minutes, now it works fine. I've heard about the input and output sensors. What should I replace? I went to HMA service to get info on both sensors, but it wasn't detailed enough.
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I have an 07 elantra and I was going down the road and my clutch pedal hit the floor. I replaced the slave cylinder. Tried to bleed it and there's no fluid coming out and there is still no pressure on the pedal.
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Alright, so this post may be entirely useless as I'm not really sure if there's a magic solution to my problem. I use the little compartments on the dash above the radio that push and slide out to hold loose change and I guess I may have overfilled one, because now it will not open at all. It doesn't push in anymore and I've tried sticking something through the tops and sides in order to try and force it to slide out, but no luck so far. I'd rather have it stuck and full of change than break anything. Is that any roundabout way to access it and push it out?
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I have a 2001 Audi TT, every time when I push the gas pedal down the car is shaking(not whole lot). I replaced one of the injection coils but still does the same thing.
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I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
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I have a 2000 LeSabre and every time you start the car and then push the gas pedal down it's hard to push, then it will break free and work normally for the rest of the drive, but the next time you get in to go somewhere else, it will do the same thing. If you "POP IT" real quick with your foot it will work just fine until the next time. Is this a cable issue?
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph. And finally I am having trouble finding a shop book for the vehicle.
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I am a first time owner of a 2015 VW Golf TSI and TDI, previously drove an Acura RSX.
I am noticing on both cars, more so in the TSI, that off a dead stop, when I push the gas pedal there is a hesitation/acceleration delay that I am not used to.
Is this normal? I just want to make sure that nothing is wrong with my cars as I am not well versed in this stuff.
Also, if it is normal, what is the cause behind this? and can it be modified to remove this lag?
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I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
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