Recently, I got a error code of P0172, that indicate mixture correction (bank 1) rich. Actually, air filter and spark plug have been replaced.
My avante is only 4 years. and 70k mileage. By the way, I found the engine shake heavily when idling.
When I drive my car, is fine for the first twenty minutes. After which time, the car drives like the E brake is on. Further, when I'm in city streets, the rpms go really high just to hit 25 mph. When I take my foot off the gas, the car gradually slows to the point where the car stops while in drive. Even if i press the gas, I have to press hard before the car moves. And when it does move, is like the E brake is on because it acts like it doesn't want to move. While traveling, is hard to reach 40 mph without the engine feeling heavily over worked.
View 12 RepliesRecently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
View 11 RepliesSo I bought my accent used a couple months ago. It is a 2007 SE 3dr 5spd manual. It ran nice during my test drive and the price was right so I bought it.
Now I'm wondering if there is any way to find out the service history on the car...at least the major one's (30k, 60k)?
I ask because recently the engine was idling a little rough and it threw a P0302 code so I changed the spark plugs and holy-cruddy-deposits-batman those things were black. Gapped the new ones and popped them in and its a noticeable difference. My CEL keeps coming on and throwing a P0496 code as well, virtually once every tank of gas. Its not the gas cap so my next step there is to check the PCSV and hoses.
With these little problems, it makes me wonder about any larger issues. I know the timing belt on these things is supposed to be replaced at 60k. Additionally I would be willing to bet that my ECM software is out of date. Would Hyundai have records for any of the big maintenance milestones since they are required for warranty work?
How much does it cost to have a dealer check your ECM software and update it if needed?
2008 Elantra 101,000 kms ... no problems ever .. till now
Started when I put the car into reverse from my driveway. I heard a thump but the car continued to reverse as normal. When I put it into drive, it was sluggish, felt like it was stuck in gear other than first. Then the engine light came on.
I pulled it over and shut it off. After a few minutes I started it again and put it in drive. Everything seemed back to normal. Engine light was still on but the vehicle was driving normally. About 20 minutes later, the engine light went out. This was 4 weeks ago.
Last week the vehicle went in to the Dealership for a service and I explained about the incident and the engine light. When I picked the vehicle up they said that there were no stored codes ??? How can that be ?? They checked the plugs and all was good. They said to bring it in right away if the engine light came back on so they could catch the code (what are the odds ... )
Last Saturday (after the service) ... driving along at 80kms when all of a sudden there is a bang and the car lurches forward and continues to drive as normal. I thought at first I might have driven over something in the road. About 2 kms later as I'm slowing down to turn a corner it does it twice (one right after the other) then continues to drive normally. I make a quick U-turn and head for the Dealership. It has been there ever since .. they claim that there are still no codes on the computer, nor can they replicate the problem.
I'm very nervous about taking it back until they resolve the problem. After doing some research it sounds like it could be a few things; solenoid, clutch gear or lock-up torque converter.
As the title says it all I have a 2010 Malibu LS with roughly 88k on it and just noticed that the CEL light came on last weekend. On Monday the light went ahead but it came back on this morning. Took it to Autozone and the error code was P0172, Fuel System Too Rich, Bank 1. I noticed this happened last weekend after putting in some gas at QT. The Autozone guy recommended some fuel injector cleaner as a starting point and recommended using pure gasoline (premium).
View 12 RepliesI have a 4 door 1.8t AWW
Like I said in the title I keep getting the P0172 and can't seem to shake it no matter what I do. I believe the car is in soft limp mode as I can't boost above 5 psi. I'm also consuming oil fairly quickly (atlas 2 quarts in a span of 2-3 months), no smoke out back though. I did find that the whole PCV system underneath the plenum was wet, but nothing else was? Checked the PCV valve and it seemed operational and didn't stay open. Check PCV system for cracks and was unable to see any which added to the confusion.
Thing's I've done to try and fix problem:
-replaced breather hose because of crack
-went through all the vacuum lines and replaced where needed
-have two n75j's that I'm unsure if they work or not (is n75j the stock valve for the AWW?)
-cleaned the maf
-replaced valve cover gasket
-changed plugs
-replaced dv with splitter
Other things for diagnose:
-little wet around 2 of the injectors on top of the plenum (old o rings?)
-when running splitter full atmospheric I can hit 10psi but with it closed off can't get past 5psi
I have a 2003 Ford Taurus. It has been running rough for awhile. It doesn't happen all the time, alas. I took it to my local repair guy. They first said, oh this happens when the AC is on. But I knew it happened otherwise.
The check engine light came on yesterday, blinking, but didn't stay on. And it was running rough. Check engine light came on, on a Sunday so I had to wait until Monday to bring the car in. They just called and said they can't find anything wrong, ran it on the computer, says it's running fine. I said, did you check the spark plugs, wires, etc? (I am good at googling, to be armed with some kind of info)
I am thinking they just put it on the computer. I suppose it has to be running bad to show anything (?) and even then, it's no guarantee. Anyway. It seems like I am "sentenced" to driving this car until it strands me, catches on fire (I read about that possibility and I have on occasion smelled something burning), or if luck has it, when it is running rough, and I bring it in while it's running rough, the computer finds the problem.
So my truck is reading a code at P0172 which means bank one is too rich. I replaced all of my o2 sensors, cleaned my MAF, and replaced PCV and hoses connected to it. What else could it be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 Fx4 5.4 that keeps throwing a p0172 code. I've replaced all spark plugs, C.O.P's, fuel injectors, Mass airflow sensor, 1 o2 sensor, checked all vac lines and there ok.
View 2 Replies1999 ranger 2.5. 135k!So I started with a tune up all motorcraft, fuel filter and air filter. Did nothing! So I did compression check all cyc 150psi and above. So I did leakdown, had air leak at dip stick and valve cover, So I asumed head gasket. Pulled head and found 3 head bolts on passenger side had carbon deposit bluid up really bad, So replaced head gasket all surfaces clean and flat. Still didn't fix it!! My symptoms are better than before hd but still have a engine shake and flashing cel at 55 plus mph and p0303 pending! Coils tested good but going change them any way tonight!I'm stuck on this one checked everything 3 times and then again...
View 7 RepliesHaving some idling issues. Pulled codes P0172 and P0304. Basically running rich on fuel bank 1 and misfire on cylinder number 4. My question is what is the locations of each...? From what I have read number 4 cylinder is closest to the drivers side and fuel bank 1 is on the passengers side. I have changed the MAF, plugs and checked the ignition coils. All looks to be good. I am guessing possibly fuel injector?
View 7 RepliesMy friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.
View 2 RepliesTwice today my car stalled out while idling. Once at a left turn red light and once in the drive thru. The first time it restarted after about 10 minutes. The second time it restarted after about 2 minutes.
Car is throwing cod P0339 for Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent.
I did some reading up on this on the forums but didn't do much about it. I just tried wiggling the wiring and all that when idling, didn't notice any roughness or stalling so.... may not be a connector issue.
Anyhow, planning to take it in for diagnosis and repair as it's really not derivable the way it is.
Actually this is the first time ever the car has given me engine trouble of any kind. just passed 90,000 miles. Shucks, streak broken.
I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
What may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
I recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
View 19 RepliesI recently realised my seat belt warning light didn light up even if I never fasten my seat belt. When I start engine, it will blink a few times, and then goes off. And then, even if I didn fasten my belt, it still wont light up?
View 1 RepliesI did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.