I have an Elantra (gas) with 23'000 miles and occasionally when I turn the ignition off it will diesel . I use 87 octane in the car . Changed the spark plugs 3 weeks ago , although it did it prior to that .
View 1 RepliesOk. 2007 Elantra SE about 73k miles
Woke up yesterday car wouldn't start. Engine would try and crank but no ignition. Came home for lunch tried it again, no luck. Let it crank 2 or 3 times about 30 sec. each no luck. Then all of a sudden it started right up. Shut it off and started right up again. Did this 5 or 6 times, it started right up each time.
After work I came home, tried to start it. No luck. Pumped the gas a couple of times let it crank for a while. Nothing. Then after a couple of tries, it started. Went to Autozone had the battery and charging system checked, all good. Put some gas in it and came home. All this time it started right up each time.
Later that night about 4 hours later I went to try it and no go. After about 5 minutes of repeatedly trying it came on eventually.
This morning I went out, pumped the gas twice and it started right up. Shut it off and started again about 5 times in a row. It seemed to run a little rough. Just slight shake that seems like miss or something.
What could be the problem. No check engine light. Fuel system, ignition system, some sensor??
I've noticed that the car has started to give me all the dummy messages, particlarly "CHECK 4WD" when I turn the ignition on without the engine running. If I then hold the brake pedal and start the engine, the message remains. If I turn the ignition off, and then start normally with the brake pedal depressed and start the engine it goes all normally and "CHECK OK" and I never get any errors when driving. I also noticed when this happens the AFS light is flashing as well - well, basically every warning on the dash is lit.
So, what's up with that ... I know it's normal for all the dash lights to light when the ignition is on and engine is off but I never noticed CHECK 4WD in this state previously. I haven't really noticed if it happens every time but it seems to happen quite a bit when I just turn the ignition back on to do something like close the moonroof if I forgot it. It's also odd that it doesn't clear when starting the car without first turning ignition off after that.
I assume that nothing is actually broken because it all behaves normally when starting the car regularly and the car does not complain at all when driving around.
My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6 with about 135K miles. The key will insert fully into the ignition, but will not turn. It will remove easily as well. Just not turn. I am unable to start. I have sprayed lock lubricant with graphite into the slot with no success.
Oddly, there is slight pressure on the steering wheel, just like you parked it with the wheels turned all the way to one side. However, the wheels are straight as the car sits in the garage. But, there is still slight pressure on the steering wheel. I can rock (move) the steering wheel back and forth, and relieve the pressure on the ignition lock, but the key still will not turn.
Note, this is the third time that this has happened. About three months ago, I could not turn the key and had it towed to an independent garage. The key turned immediately for the mechanic and he could not duplicate the problem.
I took the starter off over last weekend, tested it and it was working. I can hear a click every time I turn the key in the ignition but nothing after. The first time that happen I couldn't move the stick either. I change the brake light switch now it seems that I can move the shift freely but still doesn't start. In Park or Neutral I can hear a click, if I put in gear and try to start I hear nothing. So I'm thinking that it cannot be the switch Park/Neutral not working because I would not hear a click anytime.
View 7 RepliesDrove the car yesterday all was fine. Came home and shut it off. Went to start it about an hour later and the ignition key will not turn. Tried a second key and still no luck. Disconnected the battery and waited for about 10 mins. Reconnected battery still no luck. Wiggled steering wheel and shifter (automatic) still no luck.
View 16 RepliesMy engine keeps knocking for a minute or so after I come to a stop and turn off ignition. Should I be concerned?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 hyundai accent when I turn the ignition key off the parking lights stay on but its doesn't happen all the time.
View 1 RepliesI put the key in and maybe 1 out of 10 times it wont turn to start the engine. When I pull it out and put it back in 2-3 times it will turn. I tried my spare key and it still happens. I have W2-40'd it with no luck. I am out in the wilderness a lot and don't want to get stranded. is it the switch or has the interlock cable shown this as a problem? What are the steps to replace the switch?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra GLS, with Push Start ignition.
Whenever I get out of my car for a few minutes, I keep the engine running, so what I do is, I keep the Smart Key inside the car, and remove the physical key trying to lock the doors from outside (I do this to keep the car cool from inside because the heat in my country is scorching!)...what I found recently is that as I do this, only the driver door gets locked, and all the other doors are still unlocked...I don't know if this is a fault or standard....
On sporadic occasions when I turn the key to start the car, I get nothing. No buzzers, bells, lights or ignition. If I open and close the door, all is well.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
View 7 RepliesStarts fine most of the time. Then suddenly key will turn but not engage ignition. Power OK to everything but ignition. Have replaced starter & ignition module. Still does the same thing. Leave for a while & truck starts fine. 2006 F250 6 litre diesel ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
I have a BMW 740I that has over 200,000 miles on the clock, I have noticed in the past couple of day that the check engine light when I turn on the ignition that it flashes then becomes still, what the problem could be, and if it is safe to drive?
View 9 RepliesI bought a 2005 Camry 4cyl yesterday and realized today that the check engine light was not coming on when turning the ignition on. I put my dtc tool on the car and got these codes. Getting P0300 ,P0303, p0304 & p0012 . Not sure where to start looking.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
Pulling into work this morning I noticed my check engine light was flashing. The car (1997 Buick LeSabre, aka The Rolling Couch) was still running and everything seemed normal. I turned off the car and then went back out 3 hours later and tried to start it. It would not start, and the symptom is not one I've had any luck Googling. When I turn the key, it makes a sound, but it's not a click. It's the normal sound when ignition starts, but the engine does not crank at all or turn over. It just makes a single ignition sound and then nothing. Could this be a belt? The starter? I have not taken it anywhere or pulled the error code yet.
View 13 RepliesA year ago, I had a problem starting my car (a 2004 Chevrolet Impala, about 120,000 miles). When I put the key in the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn. I knew there wasn't a problem with the battery because my lights, radio, etc. were still operating fine. Instead, I got a bright flashing "SECURITY" message on the front panel of the car. After a few minutes pacing around the parking lot, I returned to my car and it started without a problem. I checked online, and several car forums and articles claimed that this was a common problem in 2004 Chevrolet Impalas: some faulty wiring in the security system would stop the car from turning on because it thought you were trying to hot-wire the vehicle.
After the first incident, I didn't encounter this problem again until recently. Within the last 2 weeks, this problem has become more frequent, occurring maybe 2-3 times per week. The car won't start and I'll get a flashing "SECURITY" message. If I wait a while (between 5 to 30 minutes), the car will eventually start. I finally decided to take my car into a Chevrolet dealership to get the problem fixed. I described the problem to the mechanic; she guessed that the cause was associated with the ignition cylinder....