Elantra HD (2006-10) :: EPS Light Intermittently Comes On / Lost Power Steering
Apr 7, 2014
I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
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Having problems with Elanta 2009's electronic power steering system? I was driving my car and the power steering went unexpectedly almost causing an accident. I shut the car off and when it was re-started, it was working again and EPS light was off. I am taking it to the dealership soon to see what they will do. It has also been making a loud squealing sound for a few months now. It started out occasionally making noise when I would back up or turn the wheel to the side but is now squealing pretty consistently. I had it looked into when I got an oil change and no one can figure out what it is from. All of my belts were checked and are tight. I believe it's linked to the power steering.
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Was driving on interstate and car started to loose power. Replaced battery and before I could make it home car started to loose power again (lost power steering and power brakes). Charged battery, replaced alternator, and now car starts fine but there are issues.
1) VGRS, VCS, and AFS lifts are on.
2) Steering wheel is 90 degrees off.
Car ran fine before alternator/battery replacement.
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My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
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Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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The EPS on my 07 Elantra has failed, the steering is very stiff and the EPS light is on. On occasion in the past, the EPS light has come on but started working again after restarting the vehicle. Now the light comes on as soon as I turn the key.
How should I proceed? I don't mind spending a few hundred on a fix that may not work. Is it likely to be a torque sensor / input sensor problem similar to the EPS recall on 2008-2010 Elantras? Are there other electrical issues that could cause this?
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In March 2012, the EPS light came on in my Elantra and the power steering went out. At first, when I would restart the car, the light would go off for a time and the power steering would work, but soon it would revert to EPS light and no power steering. I took it to the dealer who ran a couple of updates and tightened a loose connection. All was well until January 2013, when the EPS light came on again and the power steering quit working. No amount of restarting, crossing fingers, or using bad language, would make the light go off and return the steering to normal. Back to the dealer I went. This time the verdict was bad.
Now, in July 2013, my battery (which I had replaced in January 2013) died. Seriously died. Not a sound, not a click. When the car was jump-started, imagine my surprise when the EPS light was out and the power steering worked. After a new battery was in place, the power steering continued to work just fine - so far. My question is this. Would a bad/low battery have anything to do with the EPS malfunctioning? Today, I took the car in for a recall fix and asked this question of the service manager. He said, of course not, but to keep my fingers crossed and hope that it continues to work. So, how can a steering column that needs to be replaced, suddenly begin to work at precisely the moment there is a full electrical charge available to the car? How can there not be a connection?
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I lost a hose in the driver side front wheel well this morning while pulling RV to a campground. By the time I got there and got the RV disconnected, I lost all power steering. I reconnected the hose using a zip tie and have a friend bringing me fluid to refill reservoir.
Is my pump toast now? Can I refill the reservoir and prime the lines and be good to go?
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My 2006 F250 has a single alternator and recently the charge light is on intermittently and I have watched output voltage fluctuate between 12.4 to 13.5 ... sometime a .3 volt bounce one way or another for no noticeable reason.
So rather than buy a new alternator, I would like to replace the voltage regulator and put in some new brushes.
What are part numbers that I need to pick up?
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Driving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
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I have a 2007 Elantra. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. We've had it to the dealership and a local mechanic. No luck. No one seems to know what the problem is.
The fuel pump has been replaced, a new battery, the relay (?).
When you turn the key it either starts or.... Tries to start and it doesn't' seem electrical because if you pump the gas petal (and you get lucky) it might start after a few times of doing this.
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck. The other day, I lost all power steering, and traced it to a loose hose connection, which let all of the fluid out. I tightened the connection, refilled the reservoir, and then bled by turning lock to lock several times. when I am sitting still, or low speed parking, it feels like there is no power steering. If I am rolling, even a little bit, it is as normal, and engine speed does not seem to affect the problem, as I have raced the engine at low ground speed, and it is still really stiff. When driving, turns are easy in both directions. The way the effort required does not change with engine speed confuses me.
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When I was in for service, I mentioned this to the dealer and he told me it is because I was not using a "Hyundai" cable to connect. Now I know this is B.S. as it is an industry standard headphone jack. Another client at the counter said hers was doing the same thing too.
I was thinking I had to pull the aux connector out of the radio and look for a loose wire or something.
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I just replaced a serpentine belt on a 2004 chevy Impala. Now the power steering will loose some of its "power". I at first loosened the bolt on the tensioner not knowing how to properly make it release, then tightened the bolt back after realizing my error. I know it did not move though.
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I have a 2004 Elantra with about 132,000 miles. I was out driving today and the transmission started to shift rough. Than at a stop light the car would not accelerate. I had to put the car into low or 2nd gear to get the car to move. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. When I arrived home and parked and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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I have had various issues with my car over the years but on my way home last night my car just died coming down the interstate. It didn't make any noise, it simply kicked off the cruise, the battery light and oil light came on, and I lost gas and power steering. The security light did not come on and my car's forgotten who I am often enough I know how to do the key relearn by heart. My service engine soon light stays on because I no longer have a catalytic converter. When I turn the key over I smell gas (which I can only assume means there's not an issue with my fuel system), everything turns (alternator, belts, etc.) but it doesn't fire.
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Over the past two weeks it just seemed to get a little worse, it was making noises when accelerating when the car was cold, almost like a whining and the engine was idling hard. When looking for the non-existent EGR valve I did discover my air filter was ridiculously dirty and the air intake is full of oil. The oil was low but not enough to make the engine seize. I know that's a lot of information but was trying to be as clear as possible about previous issues and what I have ruled out. I did read that it could possibly be the CPR, but didn't know and I need it running again.
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