Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Driver Side Door Lock Would Not Operate
Nov 16, 2015
I have had this Elantra for over 7 years now and it has given me faultless service - up to now. Some months ago I noticed that when I operated my personal locking key, the drivers side lock would not operate. More recently, this problem seems to be getting worse. Its not a problem leaving the car as I can manually operate the switch but opening the front door requires me to crawl in from the rear door to unlock it. When I operate the door lock with the key, I see the lock attempting to move but remains in its position. I've tried several alternatives like using my wife's keys but the system remains resolute. By the way, where is the antenna that receives signals from the key?
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I have a '03 elantra. The drivers side power door lock actuator went out. Haven't had much luck locating one on-line. Really don't want to go to the stealership. front and rear doors are the same? I would swap them out, since I seldom use the rear doors.
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My '07 Elantra wont open from the outside handle, and it also wont unlock when using the key fob. Is it possible I have a bad actuator?
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I just noticed the other night that it seems like the door lock switches on the driver side near the power window switch does not illuminate in the dark....is this just my car or are they all like that?
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I have a 2010 Elantra where the rear driver door randomly won't shut. The lock intermittently won't engage and the door just swings back at you. Happened twice and I just thought nothing of it and played around until it closed. I was at my dealership (for another problem) and I opened that door to get something out of the backseat and the door just swung back at me when I shut it. They kept the car and lubed it up and said it was working fine. 2 weeks later it happened again when I was running errands and it took me half an hour to get it to close again.
This particular thing apparently isn't covered under warranty so my solution was don't open the door. Now my trunk is doing it too! The trunk has always sporadically opened on its own every now and then and I always thought maybe I was pushing the button on the transmitter... Nope! My car went back to the dealership for the trunk and the door. They got my trunk to close by "fiddling around" and couldn't recreate the door not closing and both APPEARED to be working fine. The next day the trunk wouldn't close again. I got it to close by playing around with the lock and the transmitter. It opened again while I was driving.
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I own a 2006 Hyundai Azera and for the last year, I've had a door lock issue. My driver's side door lock will not lock the door. It sometimes engages it slightly so I don't think it is electrical. It happened after I accidentally left the windows cracked during summer and there was a huge t-storm from which some rain water got on the door lock mechanism. Could it be the door lock actuator or perhaps a spring got loose?
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The driver side door lock doesn't work electronically. It locks and unlocks with the key and the knob on the inside but not with the remote and central locking. Though when I lock it, it does make a sound and the knob moves a little. Need to confirm that it is in fact the actuator ...
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I am now having my first issue with my car in that the rear drivers side door lock won't always work.
After using the search function, it seems replacing the door lock actuator/solenoid solves this problem, but I could only find a diagram showing how to get at it on the drivers front door, not a rear door.
Looking for a diagram on how to do this, or info on it?
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We purchased our 2009 Accent 4 door used about 3 years ago and it came with only one keyless remote. Last week we began having problems with the keyless remote sometimes not locking the driver's door. It usually locks the other 3 doors on the first press of the button, but it usually takes 2 or more presses to get it to lock the driver's door. It always unlocks the driver's door on the first press. I replaced the battery in the keyless remote fob, and opened and closed the hood and trunk with no effect. We still have the original battery in the car.
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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I've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
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A few years ago, my 2010 Elantra started sporadic chiming when I opened the driver's door. Dealers explanation was that there is a microswitch (sensor) that detects if a key is in the ignition switch. Seems that the switch/sensor thought the key was still in the ignition and when the door was opened, it chimed to remind you that the key hadn't been removed.
Well, the dealer replaced the microswitch, and after a month or so, the problem returned. They lubed the switch, and once again the problem eventually returned. This happened several times. I eventually learned to tap the steering column, which vibrates the switch/sensor and the chiming stops. The dealer said that if a fix were to become known, they would fix it for me, for free.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
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I just got a used 06 elantra gls. The drivers side lock seems like it doesn't have enough power to unlock its self when I try to use the power locking. It unlocks fine with the key.
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I have 2011 elantra, front driver power door lock only works sometimes.
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On occasion my drivers side door will not unlock, I have a SEL with the key less sensors so as I try to get in the car it unlocks all the rest of the doors but not the drivers, I have to go to the other side and physically use the inside latch and then that door unlocks. I notice this when I run the remote start cycle twice more than anything.
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My driver side rear door won't lock any way that I try to lock it. I have tried to lock it by using the lock/unlock contol button that locks or unlocks all of the doors at one time on the inside of the drivers door and it won't lock. I have tried to lock it by pushing the rubber button on the outside of the drivers door and it won't lock.
I am unable to move the lock button next to door handle in the inside of the door on the rear drivers side door. Which led me to check the child lock lever that one can see when they open the door. Moving child lock lever doesn't do anything either way it is set to change the problem. Also I am able to open the door from the outside or the inside.
All other doors lock and unlock properly. My question is when there is an actuator motor problem does that make it so that one is unable to move the lock/unlock button on the inside of that door?
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All other doors lock and unlock except drivers door. The drivers door can only be locked unlocked manually with your hand.
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I can't seem to lock my driver's side door via my key fob anymore. It locks all the other doors. When I press the lock button, I can hear the other doors lock and no beeping sound. There is a light blinking on my dash according to the manual the accessory mode light is blinking. I How do I shut it off? I've turned the car on by pressing the power button and pressing the brake then shut if off normally by pressing the power button.
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I just picked up an R32 a couple weeks ago, and I've noticed that occasionally when using the remote door locks that the driver's door refuses to lock/unlock. When locking, the alarm doesn't arm as I assume the car doesn't think the door is closed. When unlocking, well, it just doesn't unlock. In both cases if I use the key in the door, everything works nicely.
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I got in my 2011 Sonata today to go to work and my driver side door won't lock either electrically or manually. The other 3 doors lock and unlock just fine. I'm really concerned because I can't even lock it manually by pressing the lock in. How to fix this anomaly?
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