Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Dome Light Doesn't Work
Oct 13, 2014
Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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I was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
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I don't know what is this.. Before 30 mins everything worked fine, I installed a new LED panel to the interior light centre and happened this!
The dome lights doesn't work with any door. Can be the relay?
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I just purchased a 2006 E-350 15 passenger van. ~85000 miles. As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on, as expected. However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off. There are two ways I've found to make the light go off:
1. Reach a speed of 10mph
2. Wait several minutes (i haven't timed it yet, maybe 10 min?) without opening a door
I've read that the keyless entry remote can control this, but this van isn't equipped with keyless entry. There must be some factory setting that can be adjusted. Also, any thoughts on adding an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD stereo? Maybe I should bite the bullet and install an after-market deck?
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I just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
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I almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
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I own a Elantra 2011 and I have a major problem. I cannot shift from PARK to DRIVE and my electric windows doesn't work either ! Everything else working fine and the car start normally !! The dealer cannot find the trouble and the car just have 19802 KM on it!!
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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I have a 2006 Kia Rio. About a month ago, I noticed that the car's AC only works when it's not hot outside. For example, it works when I leave for work early in the morning, but it blows hot air later in the afternoon when the temps outside. Or yesterday, we had an unusually cool day and the AC worked fine all day! But whenever it gets hot outside, the AC will blow hot air! What could be wrong? Relay or compressor clutch, maybe?
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Just got home from work and had to return to my car. Noticed the dome lights did not come on when I unlocked the car with my key. Figured maybe i had turned them off by mistake. Tried to flip the switch over but nothing. Turned the ignition on and the lights came on. Turned them off and on and seemed fine. Turned off the ignition they turned off. I tried trouble shooting the issue. Locked the car with the fob and unlocked. No lights. Turned on and off the car and repeated. Still no lights.
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 and having problems right now because my Door Chime and Dome light dont work when the doors are open. But for some odd reason, when the rear door is open, the dome lights work. The 4 doors doesnt work yet the rear door does
The reason i want this is because i want to install an alarm and the door signal is needed and it is suppose to be tapped at the dome/chime so when the door is opened, the alarm will sound so it is not just relying on the Shock sensor.
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I have changed bulb and got flicker then nothing?
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The other day I tried to do the nav hack and dvd playback in motion. I read through the instructions multiple times and followed them correctly making sure to cut the right wires. At the end, the only thing that worked was the dvd playback. I even tried two different switches but no luck. Over the weekend I noticed that cruise control wasn't working. When I press the cruise control button you can see the icon in the dash but you can't "set" the speed.
So today I plugged everything back to how it was, but still the cruise control does not work. I think it has something to do with the VSS. I did search, but I only found one other guy that had the same problem but it was never posted if he solved it.
I checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash but they are all okay. How to reset the VSS or where the fuse for it may be? I'm going to try unplugging the battery and seeing if that does anything.
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I just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?
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I got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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My wife and I drove our 1998 BMW Z3 from Kapoho, the easternmost point of the big island of Hawaii to volcanoes national Park. This is about a 30 mile drive and you're going from sea level to 4000 feet. We were going up there to meet some friends driving over from Kona to tour the national Park. By the way these friends are from Boston and the husband and I went to school together at Michigan Tech in the 60s. Anyway we meet them in their jeep and tour around the park with them because our car is only two seater. When we're done we are going to drive back down to our house and spend the night. I purposely left the gas go way down in the tank of the Z3 in order to fill it up with ethanol free gas because we don't drive this car much and it sits a lot.
I asked my wife if she would like to drive the Z3 with the other couples wife while I drove their jeep with my friend her husband. We had agreed to stop at a glassblowing shop on the way down the hill called 2400°F. When we stopped there my wife explained that she had a really hard time shifting is the Z3 and when I drive it the rest of the way home, I had a hard time shifting, it felt like I couldn't really disengage the clutch completely and it was hard to get into first and reverse gear. All the time the low gaslight is now on. I get to the only station that sells ethanol free gas and fill it up. Of course the gas light warning light is off now but now it now shifts perfectly?????. It drives home fine all the rest of the way. What is going? How or why does the gas warning light being on make it hard to disengage the clutch?
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About 3 weeks ago i have noticed that the right headlight doesn't work. I assumed its the bulb and bought a set from kbcarstuff. Installed them today and it still doesn't work. I tried to swap the bulbs and non of them worked in the right headlight and all of them worked fine in the left one. I assumed it is a fuse and went to check it out(number 80 and 81 fuses, 15A are all sweet). Is it the ballast or something also?
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I have a 2008 Accent two door hatchback. The speedometer started jumping and then just quit along with the odometer. The odometer displays the last mileage but doesn't increase. I replaced the speedometer sensor in the side of the transmission and found two of the pins on the connector socket going to that sensor were burnt. I have now replaced the three connector, cable and it still doesn't work. The Hyundai part number for the HMC Extension cable is 43893-23011. So, I have a new cable and new sensor. What next?
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I got me new accent 2011 but my odo doesn't display the computer trip that display the mileage and shift indicator and other stuff only show the km and trip....
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Nothing is more annoying to me than constant rattles and noises in a vehicle. My 2012 Limited Elantra makes a couple of noises that are really annoying. The first is a constant light rattle the seems to come from the dome light area or the sunroof. I haven't been able to pinpoint it, but it drives me nuts. The other noise comes from the back doors area, or maybe the pillars. It happens on both sides, but mostly on the drivers side, and it only happens when the car goes over certain bumps, or when I take a curve a certain way. It almost sounds like a cracking noise. I've heard of glove compartment rattles, but that doesn't seem to happen with my car.
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