Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Cruise Set Light Stuck On - Trans Won't Shift Out Of Third
Aug 3, 2014
I drive a 2008 Elantra and had a mouse chew the wiring harness from the output speed sensor on the transmission to where the wires diverge from the Engine harness. It was still able to drive but the transmission stayed in third gear, the cruise set light stayed on and the check engine light came on.
I had noticed sluggish shifting before this happened and assumed the speed sensors needed replaced so I purchased the input and output sensors (42620-39200 & 42621-39200) and that is when I noticed the wires missing. I've checked the harness for other potential mouse foolery, took the old connector to the output sensor soldered wires to it and reconnected them to the engine harness. On a test drive after rewiring and replacing the sensors the car still stays in third and the set light is still on however the check engine light is not on anymore. At this point I'm clueless what to do next besides drive it to a dealer.
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2010 Elantra. The other day I noticed that while driving with cruise control on, on the way home from work, pressing the brake pedal didn't turn the cruise control off. I felt the brake work, but the engine started revving like I was holding down the accelerator so I took my foot off and manually turned the cruise control off with the On/Off button. I didn't think much of it at the time other than it hadn't done that previously. Then, when I got home I couldn't put the car in park. The shifter wouldn't move past Neutral up to the Reverse or Park position. Using the shift-lock release push button I was able to put it in park. I'm not sure if the two issues presented here are related, but they both occurred for the first time on the same day. I was hoping it was a random occurrence and it would be better today, but things haven't changed. The brake and accelerator have continued to work just as before and the car feels no different driving it.
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Just picked up an Excursion with the V10 and 4R100 (2001). Drove it in to work to day and while on the freeway cruising on cruise control about 60 it seemed to shift or atleast lock/unlock the trans on ever slight downhill you encounter on a city freeway. Just light humps in the road. Does this seem normal? RPM's would be just shy of 2000 then I'd hit a small decline and would shift to 1600 or so then back up when it leveled out.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, has 99,000 miles 3.5L. After changing the alternator (alternator did die and drained my battery, the shop recharged the battery) now it seems be stuck in 3rd gear and does not wont to shift (it is a automatic). Fluids are good, transmission was flushed between 50-60,000 miles.
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I just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
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I have a 2011 Elantra 1.8 automatic Gls with 133k miles. While driving approximately 70 miles per hour the car downshifted to fourth gear, and would not shift up or down. I drove the car home and found that this is called "lump mode". I checked the codes, and found P0880 tcm voltage input. I replaced the fluid temperature sensor and harness, and checked continuity through the harness. I found no problems in the harness from the tcm to the solenoid connector. I then purchased a matching tcm, but the problem persisted. If the battery cable is left off for several days the problem will disappear until the car warms up.
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Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
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Noticed this in the last couple of weeks. On light throttle acceleration the 1-2 shift seems perfectly normal, but 2-3 occurs rather sooner than previously, and 3-4 seems to go through neutral (tach climbs maybe 250-500 rpm for maybe a second or so) rather than a solid shift. Getting on the freeway (WOT), seems normal, and other than light throttle if there's a problem with shift points, I don't notice it.
Maybe an issue with relearn/reprogram? Car is low mileage, adult driven, 16,721 miles of easy highway and local driving.
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For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
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I have 2011 Elantra at ~20,000 mile, and strange things started happening since last year...and it kinda blew up today.
My dashboard has been flickering randomly for a while, as in everything goes dark and turns up again in the middle of driving.
And today it turned off and turned on (as it usually does), and the dashboard seemed broken; speedometer stuck at 0 mph, rpm meter stuck at 0, all warning lights turned on, gas meter going up and down and stuff.
Fortunately enough I was close to home so I drove it back home, and my gear shift was stuck at neutral (I could switch b/w N and D).
So I took out the shift lock release? thing and managed to put the gear to P and pull my key out. I stepped out of my car and I smelled something burning...not a very good sign. What should I do? Well I think I need to take it to dealership tomorrow but I'm not sure if it'll be safe to drive...
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I don't know what is causing this but I bought a 2012 elantra last week (500 miles on it so far). Yesterday when I went to start my car the clicker wasn't opening or locking the doors so I had to use my key to open the door. When I got in my car would start but was "stuck" in park and I couldn't shift past park (yes I had my foot on the brake). After about 10 minutes it just randomly worked... Today I was driving to work stopped to get gas and as I was stopping I realized I couldn't shift passed neutral to put in park (I could go back and forth between drive and neutral). While this was going on my windows would not go up or down. Again after 10 minutes the problem seemed to fix itself. What could be causing this?
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I have two codes P0760 and P0755, malfunction shift solenoid B and C, today I took it to Hyundai here in queens ny, I was told that It would cost e 2684.00 to fix my issue, I can't believe that if those two codes are the problem why would it cost 2684.00 ? Where are these solenoids located?
The car feels like your one of the flintstones, it's stuck in 3rd gear and cant get out, then it jerks when it tries to shift, tranny oil is fine not burnt like if the clutches are gone.
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My VSC and check engine light have come on. In addition now the auto trans will not shift past 4 gear with in auto or with me doing it manually. My local shop who has worked on this car before and is very good put the computer reader on it and got a P0500 for vehicle speed sensor "A". Today they put it on the real monitor and it reads a different code that says check engine code but does not reveal the code to read.
I really don't want to go to my dealer and get it hard. The car has 175,000 and until now has run great. I tried the gas cap fix to no avail. The shop did a reset when i first got there and it last 75 yards.
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Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
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A couple weeks back my 99 yukon died after hitting a large bump, found that the IGN A fuse was blown and kept blowing new fuses so I started digging and I found a slightly bare wire from an old remote start install that was touching the steel dash, problem solved I think. A few days go by and the ABS starts cycling about every 10 or so brakes, which is wierd, then ABS light comes on speedo goes to zero and trans wont shift, stays in 1st gear but every now and then speedo starts working trans shifts and you can drive but then speedo drops and wham feels like nuetral but really its back to first gear only if you rev it high enough, then the speedo starts on off on off on off gears work then dont then do and so on. What the heck is going on ?
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I have a 4 cylinder manual transmission that the cruise control won't set. The light will come on it just won't set. I don't see any vacuum hoses and can't find any blown fuses. All the lights brakes, parking, and flashers seem to be working fine.
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I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
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I just got into my car with 49k miles and after I left the driveway the check engine light flashed, then went on solid as did the cruise control light. Meanwhile the car was shaking slightly. Its now parked in front of a neighbor's house. I re-tightened the gas cap and turned the car back on after I let it "rest". No improvement. Its shaking even in idle. I'm tempted to take to Autozone to have them read the check engine light code. But I'm afraid of making the problem worse by driving it. I recently got laid off and really didn't expect a car with so few miles to have any issues. Its a 2005 and I barely put 10k miles on it a year. (I'm the second owner and the car is out of warranty).
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I have a 2006 F250 with the 6.0 PowerStroke and automatic transmission. I just purchased this truck at an auction about a month ago.
Today I notice the transmission is not shifting into overdrive. No warning lights. If I press the tow/haul button in no change but the tow/haul light does come on. If I press it again (to turn it off) the tow/haul light goes out but still the transmission will not shift into overdrive.
This leaves me at about 2000 RPM at 68 MPH. I just had a Ford dealer perform Transmission service last week. (20,000 miles after the last recorded service.)
I am already not happy with the service I received at the dealer so I am really hesitant to take it back to them if it is something not related to the transmission service they performed.
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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The cruise control cuts out after driving for 25+ minutes. The rpm's rev up to 4000 and the speedometer goes wild just before cutting off. It can be reset but does not hold for long. Short trips and a cooling-off period for the engine seem to work. The dealer could not replicate the condition.
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