Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Car Starts Hesitating Losing Power
Sep 19, 2015
My car has been running great. It has 125,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago I did a bunch of work. I changed the plugs, air filter, timing belt, ac belt, alt, belt, cooling flush, tranny flush and brakes. Everything was great until yesterday. I wanted to test the power so I was on the highway going up this long incline going relatively fast. As I get almost to the top of the hill, my car starts hesitating losing power and check engine light comes on. I make it off the exit and sputter to a commuter parking lot. I shut the car off, check under the car for leaks and check the fluids. Everything is ok. I start the car back up and its running fine again. I drive home then I drive to the parts store to have them check the codes. No codes found. He told me that the engine light needs to be on for them to find codes.
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.
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I'm driving a 1995 Mazda Protege with about 200,000 miles. It has been generally pretty reliable, and I have fixed things as necessary, but a DNR has been in place for awhile. The water pump is leaking coolant and need replacing it, so I'm driving it (and keeping the coolant topped off) while I arrange to get something else. The temp gauge stays in the normal range.
Yesterday on the road the car began to lose electrical power: the radio turned off, the gauge cluster and then the headlights got dimmer, etc. But it continued to run ok. When I got where I was going, I parked it for a few hours, then on the return trip the car started fine, the headlights and gauges were bright, but over the course of about half-an-hour they began to dim again. The car continued to run ok until I got where I was going and parked it. I'm not sure I want to drive it again until I figure out what's going on.
The battery is about six months old, and the alternator was replaced about two years ago. The serpentine belt is in place and seems to be in good condition. Battery connections and cables look ok. The "charging" warning light has never come on. The water pump has been leaking for a couple weeks, but this is the first time the electrics have acted weird. Would the alternator go bad this soon? Does the water pump affect the electrics? What do I look for?
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
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My 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
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2008 Elantra, no longer under warranty.
A few days ago, I got new tires on the front. The tire pressure light came on the next day. The front left tire seemed to be losing air. I brought it to the tire place.. They could find no leaking anywhere, although the tire had lost 5 pounds of pressure. The mechanic said the leak could be due to the TPM sensor? (He said, when he was checking the air pressure, the core stuck? ) Can a faulty TPM sensor cause air to leak out of a tire??
If that TPM sensor is indeed broken -- is the Tire place responsible?? --because this seemed to break right when they put new tires on my car.
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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My '05 Elantra GT has done some weird stuff in the last few days: Losing complete power for a second when pulling out of the driveway two days ago, flickering headlights constantly, complete loss of power while trying to start last night, then suddenly everything started right up. Today, it lost power 2 times in about 10 seconds while I was sitting at a light on the way to work, but the motor never shut all the way off so it just restarted. Today at lunch, I turned the key and everything went dark. I pressed the brake pedal, the dash clock came on and then I was able to start the car. Bad Diode in alternator?
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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My 2002 Hyundai elantra gls has had a problem with losing power when accelerating from a light. only after filling up gas and has done it only three times. I cleaned throttle body and noticed the mass air flow sensor is missing and wiring. I went to AutoZone and no check engine light for mass air flow sensor and that I have one for fuel pressure sensor in tank. I don't wanna throw money in to the mass air flow sensor if my problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
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I have an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has twice had issues with hesitating while driving (like it's not getting gas--tank is full), then starts rattling, then dies. I had it towed to the shop 3 weeks ago. "loss of cam or crank sensor misfire codes found loose connection at pcm, connector 4, re-attach connector to lock position, erase codes". Picked it up after work was done. When driving it to work two days ago, the same exact situation presented. Had it towed again to shop. They're saying they ran it all day and cannot get any codes to come up and that 90% of the time it's the cam sensor. He also said 1/3 of the time (math issues) it's the computer. How can you know if it's the cam sensor or the computer?
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I have a 2010 Forte EX with 47,000 on it. It seems to have a "cold start" problem when temps are cold. For the first 10-15 min. when on the highway the engine starts cutting out or hesitating and the check engine light flashes off and on. It also stalls on occasion at stop lights. After those 10 min. the car runs fine. I have taken it to the Kia dealer and they have re-created the problem but was told there was no codes for the check engine light. So, apparently the dealer can't do anything without a code and Kia Corp. doesn't know what to do either! What could be causing this "cold start" problem, such as fuel pump, fuel filter etc? The dealer said they checked those things and those components check out. Are there no mechanics anymore or just computer techs that run diagnostics and let the codes tell them what is wrong?!!
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I have a 2007 Elantra. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. We've had it to the dealership and a local mechanic. No luck. No one seems to know what the problem is.
The fuel pump has been replaced, a new battery, the relay (?).
When you turn the key it either starts or.... Tries to start and it doesn't' seem electrical because if you pump the gas petal (and you get lucky) it might start after a few times of doing this.
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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Filled up my power steering every 3 days this week. Finally climbed under the car and saw this. How difficult or expensive this will be to fix? Is it just replacing the rubber boot or is it more severe?
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I have a 2006 Rubicon Wrangler 4.0 (automatic) with 15K miles, excellent cond. When I drive up to the mountains my Jeep loses power to the point I have the gas pedal pushed to the floor, whereas I can jump out of the jeep and run along side of it. When I step on the gas on the freeway going at high speed it dogs down. It runs fine driving around town. I never had this problem before. I don't think its a transmission problem because I have no engine light coming on. I just checked the Catalytic Converter and that's ok. I'm lost, I have no clue what it can be.
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The problem began a year ago when the car would randomly lose power while hubby was driving it, and then regain power almost immediately and continue to move forward. Weird. Fast forward a year and the problem is happening more frequently. Couple that with the car taking a lonnnnng time to start up in the morning. One day, it ceases to start altogether. Had a mechanic friend of ours look at it and tell us we need a new fuel pump. Okay, no problem. We paid him for the pump and he installed it. Before I could dance a victory dance, though, as hubby turned the key....the car still won't start. Mechanic buddy takes another look at the car and said the ECM is cracked and needs replacement. Looked it up online and ECM is covered under safety recall. Had car towed to the dealership, waited 2 weeks on ECM replacement, dealer called us up to let us know that....the car still won't start, and looks like we need a new fuel pump.
Mechanic friend took another look at it and said it looks like a bad connection between the pump and made an adjustment to it. The car works! Sort of. Car starts acting funny again. We're driving along and the car is losing/gaining/losing/gaining power, tachometer goes up and down, we hear a funny clicking coming from the dash area every time the car loses power. Last night, the car just refused to start. This morning, it started. After several attempts. Made that fun "verr-verr-verr-verr-verr-verr" sound without the "-rooom" at the end. Since my knowledge of fuel pumps and their casings, ECMs, and the like are limited to this situation, I'd love to know what's REALLY going on with the car. I have a suspicion that it goes beyond the fuel pump situation, but mechanic friend thinks it is the casing or something like that.
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