Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Car Stalls At Idle / Stop - Cannot Shift / Turn Off
Aug 12, 2016
I'm having with my 2008 Elantra. In short, the car stalls when I'm at a stop, and then for a period of time, I cannot get the car in park or turn it off. When I am eventually able to get it to do so, I turn it back on, and it restarts like nothing ever happened. The full details are below. The dealership is clueless, and I am so upset/frustrated.
Three weeks ago, I was slowed down at a yield sign, and when I tried to inch forward, my car stalled. The radio, AC, etc. were all still on, but I could not move forward. I noticed the EPS light on on my dash. I also could not turn the wheel or shift the car into park (could only get it into neutral), and therefore, could not turn off the car/get the key out.
After cops pushed me into a parking lot, the car sat for a bit (still technically "on"). Eventually, a friend got in and forced the wheel to move a bit in each direction, and was able to put the car in park and turn it off. When we turned it back on, the engine started and everything appeared fine. I canceled the tow and drove it home.
I took the car to where I bought it and was told there was a technical service bulletin related to the powertrain control module, and they recommended I take it to the dealership to be fixed. The first Hyundai dealership I took it to said they addressed the TSB, and also recommended I clean out the fuel line as that may have been affecting it ($150). Because it had been awhile since I'd done anything like that and the work was relatively in expensive, I said sure, got my car back and went back to my life...
Fast forward to this week. I'm driving in rush hour traffic, and the SAME THING happens again. I immediately tried to move the wheel around to get the car in park and restart, to no avail. I called a tow. After some time passed, the same thing happened again -- we were able to get the car in park, turned it off, turned it back on and it seemed normal again.
I had the car towed to another Hyundai dealership, explained the situation and they tested and drove it around a bit over two days, but because they are unable to recreate the issue and no codes appear, they can't do anything for me.
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The only code it has ever thrown was for bank 2 camshaft over retarded. My thought was that it could be VCT solenoid for bank 2...
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But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.
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I started to realize something very weird in my car. While in drive from a stop I would accelerate and the car doesn't seem to shift up when its suppose too. I know that my car shifts around 2.1k RPM smoothly into second gear but now it would go all the way up to 3K RPM and slams into second gear which is really weird. Sometimes it does this problem and sometimes it doesn't. I would say 70% it would slam into gear. Not only does it slam but it would seem like this car does not want to shift at the proper rpm even when i foot is on the gas pedal very lightly.
Once I got home I tried some stop and goes and see if the problem persist. It still did. Then I tried doing shiftronic and from first gear once the line touches 2k RPM i shift up and yet it would still lag and the needle would go up to 3K RPM once again. This seems like a very bad problem especially MPG wise. I am still under warranty, I think because I've only swap the air filter with a drop in K&N and just plasti dipped my wheels and such.
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It's not a major dip in performance, but enough for me to know its different. One example is when I come to a stop, the car seems to surge forward a little bit. Another is that is shifts hard from time to time when I give it gas.
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Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ......
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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I have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
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Is there a way to shut this feature off. I don't need to be told when I have to shift or down shift. I thought the manual tranny E's had the ECO button which would turn this feature off, but there's no button.
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I have noticed, in my 2012 Elantra with 32,000 miles on it, that my car is shaking at idle. I'll be at a red light or stop sign and the vibration is SUPER annoying. I have had it tested at a Hyundai Dealership. They couldn't "replicate the problem" and nothing it wrong with my car.
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I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
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So, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
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I have owned my 2008 Elantra for 8 months. I am the second owner and the car has 75K highway miles. I would like to know what the RPM is supposed to be at WOT (getting onto highway).
I have seen it go to almost 7K before shifting. That does not seem normal as redline is 6.5k The trans fluid was changed (by me) with the correct, recommended fluid at 60K. That did not change the characteristics of the high shift points at all. It seems to be just fine with normal city driving, very smooth. A great car overall and I don't want to screw it up as I drive on the highway every day and need WOT to get into 80 MPH traffic.
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I'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
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I got a new clutch & shift cables & fluid professionally done one year ago. I have only put 5k miles on it since. In the last two months the... gate/slot for 1st & 2nd have been getting worse n worse. All gears show sporadic rough shifting (read rough as a clunk or one tooth grind), but 1st/2nd are consistently rough & the gate seems to be getting narrower...
Environmental & operating temp, do not noticeably affect these symptoms.
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