Recently the fuse for the ECU was pulled. From what I have read it reset the computer. Since this happened the car will buck or hesitate during acceleration. What is a good starting point to resolving this issue.
View 9 RepliesMy fiance is having issues with her car. It seems under acceleration to buck and lose power. I know more about 1.8t's but hers is the v6.
View 5 RepliesAbout two months ago, my EPC light came on and my check engine light started flashing while I was driving home from work. Never heard of/saw that EPC light before. The car started to stutter and buck really bad when trying to accelerate (on light and hard acceleration). Also, when sitting idle (like at a red light or stop sign) the car would still buck but not as bad as when driving. The only time the car doesn't buck is when I am cruising, like after I just get done pressing on the gas and the car is coasting basically. I call the mechanic the next day and he tells me right off the bat, it sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor and to drop it off so he can look at it. So I drop it off, he tells me he believes it is just a bad coil on cylinder 1, so he swapped it out and gave me an oil change (it was due for one). Picked my car up on a Wednesday, it seemed fine. Then on a Saturday same issues and same warning lights came back on. So I had it scanned at Autozone, misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, random cylinder misfire and multiple cylinder misfire, so I call him and tell him, he said just bring it back he'll swap it out. I changed the coils myself since it only takes 10 mins. The car seemed fine for about a month. Then two weeks ago, all of the same issues are back and same warning lights.
Had issues with the EPC light? Also, is any truth that the Crankshaft Position Sensor can be related to this or was the mechanic completely wrong? Read another post by someone else and there was talk of carbon buildup. My friend is mechanic and said that he thinks it might be a fuel related issue or electrical, since the issues keep coming back. Also, it misfires more when the heat is on and seems like the interior lights flicker a little when it's misfiring at idle, it's very subtle, definitely notice it so I don't know if it's electrical, fuel related, carbon build up or what.
-February of 2014, I had a fuel pump replaced by the dealer (it was for a recall)
-Back in January 2015, I had the ignition coils and spark plugs replaced by a friend (who is a mechanic).
-In July I had the lifters replaced (by the same mechanic I called)
-Been up to date with oil changes
-Use plus gas from Citgo
Going to drop it off at the dealership tomorrow.
I have a 2003 impala I just bought and it has an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I step on the gas the motor will 'slam'---kinda like if the motor mounts were bad but they look good and it doesn't always do this. Also, if I hit the gas pedal hard and then almost as quickly let off the gas pedal I get the same effect--shutter/slam. I suspect the mounts but they look fine. If I keep on the gas all gears shift very smoothly. Gear shift is smooth thru all gears if I floor it or go slowly accelerate so it seems not to be the transmission either.
View 5 RepliesI've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
My 2012 ISF has this weird hesitation going on. On manual mode with Sport, I would try to accelerate pretty hard and around 5k RPM, it would bog down and hesitate. Almost feeling like it's choking.
View 14 RepliesMy F150 has 100,000 miles on it and hesitates and bucks on acceleration. Auto zone pulled a code which I can't remember what it was but did say it was the throttle body actuator was stuck open. I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner put it back on. No change.
View 5 RepliesI have had my 2010 Prius 2010 for a year now. I have been taking my Prius to a full service car wash with the conveyor belt. They have always seemed ver Prius savvy. But the last couple of times, after getting in the car and driving away, the car seemed to hesitate upon initial acceleration. Then the problem goes away.
The last time I took it to this car wash, I sat in the car, because I only needed the express exterior wash. About a third of the way through, the instrument panel said "Low Traction Battery... put into Park" I did not obey the warning because I was afraid of putting it in Park while the conveyor belt system was pushing my Prius along. So I ignored it. By the end of the car wash, the engine had shut down. I had to start it up and drive out, and I got that same momentary, initial hesitation as I accelerated, like before. The hesitation went away after that.
2005 2.OT ... Our car showed an engine light last night and when doing heavy acceleration, starts to pull or hesitate. Do not occurs when accelerating slowly, all day at dealer and they said that might be cam wear or some pressure pump. They are taking the engine covers to find out what is the issue. Cam repair and oil change. It drives smoother and no longer hard down shifting....
View 9 Replies1999 buick century custom .. 3100 motor .. 200k+ miles ..
It all Started 2months ago.. once every few weeks my car would hesitate during acceleration (leaving a light for example) but just once.Then started it up one day and it was idling rough..also stalled out twice.
Dropped it off at a shop after hours so he could check it out in the A.M.he calls n says its not acting up at all.
Get the car back and drive it 2 more weeks..then it happens again. Rough idle and hesitating...take it directly to the shop but its acting normal again by the time I get there (starting to feel like im crazy)
So I take things into my own hands... I change air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and wires.
start it up and it seemed to run better than it ever has.. for about 5mins.I took it for a test drive and it started sputtering and bucking and eventually died to the point of undrivable.
Got towed home.NOW it starts dang near everytime but runs EXTREMELY rough for a few seconds before eventually dying. It will run a bit longer if I unplug the MAF (45seconds maybe) but runs like fecal matter the whole time
I have swapped out the MAF, EGR valve and IAC valve with parts from a 97 century (which runs fine)And nothing seemed to change the condition.
Changed fuel filterchecked fuel pressure with key on (41psi)Also replaced the timing chain and gears (thinking it slipped) but it didnt make a difference.
I pulled codes but all it had was a P0102 (MAF low input)But I think that might be from it being unplugged so many times?
I just purchased a 2001 Dodge Durango 4wd with 140,xxx miles on it. My issue is that whenever I accelerate it hesistates and if I am going at a high speed like on the interstate or expressway it sometimes slows down (drastically) if I'm going uphill. What can be causing this?
View 6 RepliesI'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
After a road trip (approximately) 80km both ways, I came back to my home area and filled up and got a car wash. Then I went home. About 2 hours after I noticed the car felt very jerky, and had no acceleration. Then big time sputtering. I turned off the car and waited for it to cool down. Once cool, it just kept on cranking. It started at one point and the engine light came on. And now it only cranks.
View 3 RepliesSo my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
Noticed this in the last couple of weeks. On light throttle acceleration the 1-2 shift seems perfectly normal, but 2-3 occurs rather sooner than previously, and 3-4 seems to go through neutral (tach climbs maybe 250-500 rpm for maybe a second or so) rather than a solid shift. Getting on the freeway (WOT), seems normal, and other than light throttle if there's a problem with shift points, I don't notice it.
Maybe an issue with relearn/reprogram? Car is low mileage, adult driven, 16,721 miles of easy highway and local driving.
The other day I noticed the car slipped into reverse fairly hard, then when I placed it into drive it also slipped in fairly hard. Once I was out on the road it hesitated and then slipped into gear 3rd then 4th, and when I slowed down it seem to hesitate when gearing down. Two days passed and no problems, then today started up again, and now the "check engine" light came on...! Shifted ok on the way home this evening but check engine light still on. Only 34K, 2012 bought in June 2011. Has been an absolutely brilliant ride up until this week. I understand the tranny is sealed ? Any tips besides taking it to a dealer ? Problem is I live quite a ways from one, and finding the time.
View 14 RepliesMy daughter has a 2010 Elantra 4-dr 74k
In the last few days, a new sound has appeared. It is hard to describe, sometimes squeaky, sometimes sound like a vacuum leak or air bypass.
It seems to steering related in conjunction with acceleration/deceleration. It only occurs when the wheel is being turned to the left, whether for a left turn or returning to center from a right turn. The noise seems to come from the center/center left of the firewall area.
It only does this while in motion, I couldn't replicate the issue with the car running but in Park.
Say I step on the gas, the car will hesitate for a second then accelerate. Anyway to get rid of that easily?
View 12 RepliesI've began noticing about 2 - 3 months ago that while coasting up to 50-55 mph my truck begins to hesitate with a slight banging when it occurs. At first I was worried it may have been transmission, but once I talked to ford mechanics, they reassured me it was not, especially at 85,000 miles. I then noticed that taking it out of overdrive prevents the problem. It doesn't act up unless I am on the highway between 50 and 60 mph. It seems to progressively get a little worse and occasionally I can feel a jolt, as if it's struggling to shift into OD. What the problem could be? 2006 F-150 FX4 ...
View 4 RepliesSince I bought my car and driven it I noticed the acceleration noise and feel more and more. At slow speeds and rpms the engine sounds like its struggling to accelerate. It isn't smooth like a constant climb. Its a winding up acceleration. From a stop you can feel it shake the car up to 3000 rpms then it goes away. It idles somewhat rough and you can feel it throughout the cabin and the exhaust sounds putter in at idles instead of a steady drone. I suspect a fuel filter as of I have changed my oil, spark plugs, and air filter. Could it be a timing belt or something like that? It also has a very very small leak around the valve cover gasket bolts.
View 2 RepliesGirlfriend just bought a used Elantra. She told me about an issue shes been having with the car and how it feels as though its towing a trailer. I drove it for a day and noticed a few things. Vehicle has 110,000 miles
1. No CEL
2. Tranny seems to NOT be slipping (Revs climb just as slow as Speed)
3. Car feels VERY heavy at times. Especially on a start up-hill
4. No sputtering/misfires
5. Shifts up and down smooth
What I've tried so far:
1. Replaced Spark Plugs
2. Sea-Foam
3. Cleaned MAF/Checked Airfilter
4. Removed and Inspected BOTH Catalytic Converters and both seem to be intact. *plan on doing a back-pressure test as soon as I get the gauge from my buddy*
5. Checked timing marks
I put 1/4 can of seafoam in crank case and plan on letting it "run-in" for 25 miles or so. I plan on doing an oil change tonight as well as make sure the brakes are not hanging up (I should have checked this first, thinking back...but hind-sight is always 20/20 ) .