Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Brakes Getting Stuck / Car Vibrates At 60 MPH
May 6, 2014
Front brakes appear not to release all the way. At Times car does not accelerate . At times car vibrates at 60 MPh.
View 5 RepliesFront brakes appear not to release all the way. At Times car does not accelerate . At times car vibrates at 60 MPh.
View 5 RepliesIn my 2010 Elantra, I have the 2 cup holder in the middle with the flap/lid cover that retracts into the side when opening. It seems a pen has gone down in that groove so now the lid does not open enough to get a drink into the holder. Any tips on getting the pen out from the bottom of the channel where the lid folds into??
View 2 RepliesI've a wired problem, my Elantra 2008 gas pedal is being stuck on the first push down only, when the car parked for more than 3 hours for example, the first press on the pedal i feel it very hard then it accept the pushing with a sound as if something is stuck and got released, after the first push it become very normal till i park it again.
I greased the pedal but noticed it may be the throttle cylinder at the engine where the gas wire is going around, i tried to accelerate the engine by turning this cylinder and it is being stuck at the first then is loosen, i tried it spray it with WD40 but it is the same.
It's pretty cold these day where I live (about 2 weeks of -20C and lower). I know that winter can affect gas mileage but right now, I'm averaging about 13l/km (18mpg). I believe this is not normal.
I just bought the car and I noticed that the engine temp looks low to me (see pic attached). Is it supposed to run this cool? I also went to the garage and he checked with a obd2 scanner and nothing was wrong. Could a stuck thermostat be the cause of my poor gas mileage?
Doing a rear brake job on my 2008 elantra. Left went fine. However, the right rotor is stuck on the parking brake. It is loose, but held on to the springs of the parking brake.
How do you back off the parking brake? Also, how do you remove the parking brake cable?
I have tried everything I know to fix the mode switch on the climate control. It's stuck in one position and I can't switch to floor or defrost. I've replaced the climate control panel and actuator and I STILL cannot get the modes to switch. I don't know what is is between the two causing it not to work. I've tried everything I know and I just can't seem to get anywhere. I only have a test light to see if voltages change and I can only get the voltage to change on one wire but none of the others.
View 1 RepliesI unlocked my 2010 Elantra yesterday afternoon with the fob. Opened the passenger front door. Turned on the ignition to Accessory for a while, then turned off, removed key, closed door, and locked with the fob. Sometime after dark, a neighbor alerted me that the car lights were on. I checked, all the doors were completely closed and the trunk was shut. The key fob would unlock/lock the car, but the lights would not go off (they were in the "automatic" position and normally work just as they should). Pushing the lock button twice would not beep the horn, either. So I turned the light switch completely off, and that did turn them off. Even the dome light would not go off until I put the switch in "off" position. By then, the battery was too drained to start the car so I put it on a charger for a while. This morning it started and all the remote functions seem to work as they should.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2008 Elantra and had a mouse chew the wiring harness from the output speed sensor on the transmission to where the wires diverge from the Engine harness. It was still able to drive but the transmission stayed in third gear, the cruise set light stayed on and the check engine light came on.
I had noticed sluggish shifting before this happened and assumed the speed sensors needed replaced so I purchased the input and output sensors (42620-39200 & 42621-39200) and that is when I noticed the wires missing. I've checked the harness for other potential mouse foolery, took the old connector to the output sensor soldered wires to it and reconnected them to the engine harness. On a test drive after rewiring and replacing the sensors the car still stays in third and the set light is still on however the check engine light is not on anymore. At this point I'm clueless what to do next besides drive it to a dealer.
My auto transmission in my 2007 Elantra with 125,000 miles went into default mode, stuck in 3rd gear. No codes went off. I drove it home this way, but after sitting for 90 minutes, now it works fine. I've heard about the input and output sensors. What should I replace? I went to HMA service to get info on both sensors, but it wasn't detailed enough.
View 3 RepliesI am a new 2013 Lexus ES 350 owner. I've notices when I'm driving at 55mph and above that when I press the brake when approaching a stop light or stop sign I can feel a vibrations, the steering wheel doesn't vibrate and the car itself doesn't tremble but I can feel it in my foot. My husband said it could be the ABS. Maybe it's totally normal.
View 7 RepliesNow that Spring is approaching, I am focusing on maintenance for my 2008 Elantra GLS. I have a brake question. When I first bought the car, my brakes were very responsive needing only a lightly press them to stop. I might say they were overly sensitive to the touch. Anyway, I since replaced both the front and rear pads since then. I am about ready to change the fronts again. Now when I press the brake pedal, I need to apply much more pressure to stop. My question is how do I get them back to where they were when I bought the car....meaning light pressure to stop the car?
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
View 1 RepliesI have a Toyota Sienna 2005 LE minivan , when I push the brakes my steering vibrates. I checked the tire balancing at the tire store just to double check no issues with balancing he verified all looked fine on tires he mentioned it is possible the front brake rotor causing it. He said I may have to replace the rotor itself since there may not be enough room for resurfacing the rotor. My question is
is it true I cannot resurface the rotors? if I have to buy new ones is it advisable if I buy it from "Autozone or OReilly " store or does it have to be the original from Toyota ? Toyota's pricing are 4 times more than from these stores. I know safety is important so let me know which option is better.
I have a 2007 ranger and when applying the brakes i get a vibration, I think it may be in the rear of the truck but it is hard to tell.
View 2 RepliesFor as long as I remember (40000+ KM), I've noticed that my steering wheel vibrates when stopped with the brakes and in D. ie, while stopped at a red light. It immediately goes away when I lift off the brake or put the car into neutral.
The vibration isn't crazy. I can only feel it through the steering wheel or touching around it. However, it is certainly very noticeable and also audible.
Have this vibration through the steering wheel? (Avalon V6) I'm hoping this isn't a defect in the car...
I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f250 lariat 4x4 with 236,000 miles. Recently I have noticed when I am applying the brakes it sounds relatively normal until about 30 mph then it sounds almost like I have a flat tire or I'm running over a rumble strip, It's almost like a popping sound but a deeper sound.. I'm not sure how to describe it. The truck also vibrates violently when I reach speeds above 65-70 mph. Until about a week ago I could go 100 mph with no vibration whatsoever.
View 6 RepliesI have an 06 Honda CRV with 140,000 miles that is having a vibration problem. My husband was trying to tell me that it was just the road but I know that is not the case. It feels like I am driving over rumble strips on the side of a highway but it only happens when the rpms are around 1500. It us usually when I am going around 45 mph or 55 mph. I can be driving straight or on a curve. As soon as I take my foot off the accelerator or add more gas (change the rpms) the vibration stops. I am by no means a car expert but would like to know if this is something serious. I would like to take a road trip but don't know if I can trust the car.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Lexus GS 350 AWD. I've noticed that when I am at a light that the car has a little bit of a vibration, not bad but I notice it. I have put it in D and R and the car does the small vibration. When I put it into N it completely stops and is still. What the heck would that be from?
Also my steering wheel has a bit of a vibration when driving. I've especially noticed it at 20 - 25 MPH. It doesn't do it more when I brake, it is just something that happens and I can feel the whole time. What do you all think that could be?
The car model is Hyundai Sonata NF 2006 (3.3 GLS - USA).
The Problem: The machine is galloping ahead without depressing the gas pedal, that is automatically speeds up (40 ~ 60 mph.). Tachometer gains 1,500-2,000 rpm from breakaway place.
While driving the car slows down and sometimes rpm-s jump to 3000. When I stop at a traffic light or rear of another vehicle while pressing "D" holding the brake pedal the car rushes forward and the engine vibrates that I hardly hold the pedal. Likewise, when driving backwards pressing "R" it is really hard to hold the brake pedal.
Steps taken with the car before problem:
1. Washed the engine compartment about 1-1.5 months earlier.
2. No more changes were made.
Taken solutions:
1. Computer diagnostics in HYUNDAI SERVICE shows no mistakes at all. Additional two diagnosis were made in two other locations showed no errors.
2. Replaced automatic transmission oil (without filter change - as remote and a lot of work on it).
3. Cleaned the throttle.
4. Checked the crankshaft sensor.
5. Checked for the presence of a layer of soot or corroded wires around / at the bottom of the engine.
Master opinion:
1. Electrician: totally eliminates the problem of the electrical part. He recommended to check the mechanical parts and automatic transmission. Also, try to replace the throttle.
2. Automatic transmissions master: he says there is no problem in the automatic transmission, as by shifting to "P" and "N" the car runs smoothly. And during the ride except for pressing the brake everything looks fine with the automatic transmission.