Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Brake Noise Before And After Rotor / Pad Change
May 21, 2011
I recently changed the rear pads/rotors on a 07. the dealer said it needed new pads because I guess the heard a light grinding noise but I did not think they looked at it. I believe the pads/rotors still had 10K miles left on them. The car has 40K miles on it.
Anyhow, I noticed the old pads had some life to them, but uneven wear in some cases. Looked like the classic issue with brake pad/caliper design tolerance error.
I did grind down the pad holder a bit so they can slide on the caliper easily without getting stuck and resulting in uneven wear.
After the new pads/rotor, the rear right appears to be making the same light muffled grinding sound when you apply the brake.
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Doing a rear brake job on my 2008 elantra. Left went fine. However, the right rotor is stuck on the parking brake. It is loose, but held on to the springs of the parking brake.
How do you back off the parking brake? Also, how do you remove the parking brake cable?
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2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
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ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
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Our 03 Civic recently went into the shop for a rotor replacement and the shop did an oil change for us while they were at it. My wife got the car back and she immediately noticed that the "AC" wasn't working. After asking a few additional questions (I'm not in the same city this week), it isn't the AC that isn't working, the fan/blower isn't turning on at all. We had the same shop check it out again and their response was that they weren't anywhere near the blower motor so this just has to be a coincidence. I could accept that but I'm still worried about a scam.
The car was in the shop just to have the rotors put on, not an oil change but they did an oil change for us anyway. (I was going to change the rotors myself but I couldn't get the caliper hangers off and it was 100+ degrees outside so I decided to have the shop mess with it), Would it be easy to sabotage the blower motor on this car?
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I'm in the process of changing pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. I've done all brakes and rotors, except that I'm stuck on the driver rear. The driver rear rotor won't come off!
Here's what I've done so far: I've used the metric jack bolts (I didn't buy the long ones) and that freed up some rust, with pb blaster. Now, the rotor comes out a bit, and I'm able to move it around, and the rotor comes forward a little bit towards me. It's so wobblily that it seems like it is about to come out. The rotor isn't solid stuck on, like most threads I've read.
While hammering, I think a piece of hardware of the parking brake fell down on the ground. Do u think that the parking brake is not allowing the rotor to come off? If so, I was reading online that there is some way to release the parking brake via a hole though the rotor, but I'm really not familiar with this. I'm not even sure if it's the parking brake that's not allowing the rotor to come off.
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My 2007 elantra has been rumbling when i change gears occasionally and sometimes when stopping at a stop sign the car just dies. The car starts right up though as if nothing happened. It only happens like twice a week but i really want it fixed. I already changed the motor mount next to the engine block on the left. Could it be the motor mount connecting to the transmission?
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Replace front brake pads, rotors, and sensors. the front brake pad sensor was touching the rotor. Car still has brake pad lite on. Replace front sensors again just in case one was defective. Replace rear sensors, still lite is on.
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I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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I am trying to remove the rear rotor of a 2007 Camry, but it appears to be stuck on the parking brake. The parking brake is not engaged, but the pads are firmly pressed against the rotor (rotor was loosen from hub assembly using bolts through the two threaded holes).
I have removed the rubber plug and attempted to turn the star adjuster, but it doesn't seem to move in either direction. Also, the adjuster should rotate away from you to tighten the brake and toward you to loosen, correct?
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
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recently I replaced the front rotors and pads on my 02 Saturn SL2. I did this because there was a grinding sound coming from the front left wheel well and I had noticed a band around the rotor that looked gouged. All in all, about 30 minutes of work, following the Hanes manual. In the course of disassembling the front left caliper, I realized that the cause of the gouge in the rotor was from one of the tensioning clips on the caliper bracket. One of the flaps on the clip had bent back and was causing both the grinding sound and the gouge in the rotor. So naturally, I replaced all the tensioning clips as well. After putting everything back together, I took the car on a quick test drive around the block. The noise, while lessened, was still present. Furthermore, after I got to work this morning, I noticed that that there is the start of the same wear pattern on my brand new rotor.
What could be causing this problem to reassert itself?
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I am receiving an erroneous warning message about pad wear. I replaced pads and rotors (OEM) about 10K miles ago. I pulled both front wheels. The pads and rotors look great, as expected, and the sensors appear to fine as well, in place, wires all look good, etc.. Nothing was jammed between the pad and the rotor, no metal was touching the rotor, etc. My understanding is that there are no sensors on the rear, so that shouldn't be causing any issues.
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I had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
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Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
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3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
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I changed my tires, brakes and rotors last August. I had installed EBC YellowStuff. I also greased(using SilGlyde) the slide pins and bled the brakes.
Last weekend, my car was making a weird noise when I hit the brake, so I removed the front tires and noticed that the front passenger side outer brake pad was completely gone and the inner brake pad still had 25% life left, but it was tapered(image attached).
I know when this happens, usually it means that the slide pins need to be greased, but they were plenty greased from my last year's brake change. I still greased them, but now I hear grinding noise frequently(not all the time) when I am accelerating at slow speed and sometimes at even high speeds.
There is no fluid leaking and I could only see surface rust on the pistons. Its driving me crazy, because I can't figure out what it is. I am thinking of just replacing the slide pins anyway to be on the safe side.
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I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
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08 XLT 4x4 Had a rotor slid freeze up last fall and eat a rotor. 39000 miles. Took apart and cleaned up and lubed, new pads and rotors both fronts. Now have pulsating pedal at 48000. Do the rear might need attention now or still the front? I never use the E brake.
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I changed over to summer tires today on my 1999 4wd F350 diesel . While the front tires were off of the ground, I tried rotating the wheels by hand to see what the resistance was like. I was surprised at how stiff they were. It would take three fingers to rotate the wheel and as soon as I stopped applying pressure the wheel stopped turning. I pulled the rims off and found that the calipers appeared to be contacting the rotors and causing resistance.
My last rig was a 1960s 4wd F250 that had calipers that could be adjusted manually. I kept these adjusted so the calipers were almost touching the rotors. I could spin the rims with one finger and the wheel would turn for 30 seconds or so until coming to a stop. Is this normal?
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My brake lights won't turn on I checked the fuse's and they are all fine what else should I check? The dealership doesn't open until Monday and a I hate driving around with no brake lights.
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