Elantra HD (2006-10) :: At Start Up Hard Shifting - Rebuild Transmissions Synchronizes?
Jan 10, 2016
I've read a lot on here that people have issues with their elentra when shifting gears, I have been having this issue for a while now and have been trying to trouble shoot the issue. (some make the mistake of using GL5 instead of GL4 or the master, slave cylinder are bad.
I've checked all of those symptoms and all is still well oh and my car is an 07 with 141k miles on it with the clutch replaced at 75k miles on it.) I went to a thicker gear oil from 75/85 to 75/90 which isn't much of a difference. It did work for a short time with the rough shifting gears but it's doing it again.
From 1st to 2nd (especially from initial start then after it warms up it's not as rough but still grinds and 3rd gear is on its way to grinding) I've started with all the small things and i'm considering rebuilding the transmissions synchronizes in the the input and output shafts for the gears.
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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I am having problems starting my 2009 Elantra sedan. There are no error codes.
I get into the car and turn the ignition and it sounds like it is about to catch but as soon as I let go of the ignition it stops.
I found that if I wait a few minutes and try and give the pedal a few vigorous pumps it will start to catch, but more often than not, I have to go through this procedure several times before it starts.
This started this winter about 2 months ago and is still happening even as the weather has warmed up.
Plenty of juice to turn it over. I have replaced the spark plugs at 100,000 km with iridium plugs. I currently have 160,000 km on it.
There is plenty of gas in the car. Sounds to me like the gas isn't getting to the engine.
Is there some systematic method that I could use to isolate the problem?
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
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I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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All of a sudden my fuel consumption dropped from 28mpg as read from the computer display in the dash, to 21mpg. This was not a gradual drop, it was at 28mpg one day and 21mpg the next day. There is no service light on, do these cars produce codes that don't trigger the service light?
A few months ago the vehicle was getting stuck in various gears and lunging, this was from battery corrosion dripping down and eating away at the transaxle range sensor. I cleaned up the battery and replaced the range sensor and the vehicle was driveable again. It re-learned the shift timing and seemed to be ok, then about a month ago it seemed to be forgetting the learned shift positions after sitting over night, I replaced the battery, thinking it was in a marginal state where it would forget the program while sitting. The shifting is still hard sometimes but this seems to have worked but, now my mileage is horrible.
I thought I'd just change out the oxygen and air flow sensors but, then looked at how much they cost now, and realized this would be some costly trial and error. Is there a methodical way to troubleshoot this issue, any way to pull the sensors and measure them?
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Finally finished rebuilding my 5R55W transmission and have it back in the 2002 Explorer. Reverse works good, Drive works great, but I am having problems with it wanting to take a long time shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Have to let up on the accelerator in order for it to go into 3rd.
Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.
Checked codes and am getting a "pending" P0745. Pressure Control Solenoid "A". What I need to start with?
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So, I bought an used 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited few days ago. It's clean title and has 86k miles on it now.
After three days from the purchase date, my car starts causing transmission problems, hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear only. It's getting worse now...
Now, what should I do? ...
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I have a e99 7.3. had the transmission rebuilt a couple weeks ago by a local shop. have been getting some hard shifts between 2nd/3rd when lightly accelerating. Took it back already but they couldn't find anything. I am planning on taking it back again but what it is so it gets fixed right. What is causing this or what it might be? Should I be worried about having this shop try and fix this?
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I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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My '08 Chevy Impala (116,000 miles) has had a recurring issue over the past few months. After I have first started it, and for maybe the first 15 minutes it is running, it has been 'shifting hard' from 1st to 2nd gear. Basically, the engine revs much higher than it normally would and it 'thunks' into second gear. If I intentionally push the gas slower it does not happen. The guys who service my car (not Chevy) told me that my Transmission fluid level is fine.
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2006 chevy 4.3 v6 5 speed manual trans. Very hard to shift into and out of gear , the truck has about 80,000 miles on it , its had the new trans fluid gm replaced for smoother shifting. If you hold the clutch pedal down on the floor hard it works fine. It all most like the pedal it screwed up. The pedal ass is plastic junk, I am thinking the pedal is bended. The clutch does not slip and I tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder and there are no leaks anywhere !
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For longer than I'd like to reveal, my Forester has shifted extremely hard. This happens only when the engine is cold and disappears entirely once it heats up. Also, the RPMs go high just before the shift. When it does shift, it feels as if the engine is going to self-destruct from the sound and rough feeling --as if the entire engine or at least some part of it were going to fall to the ground. After it shifts, it feels as if the car shoots forward like a rocket. The Subaru dealer changed the transmission fluid and reset the computer. The problem persists.
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I have a 2006 Chevy 2500HD with about 180000 miles. All of a sudden the transmission is shifting extremely hard at times. It doesn't shift this way all the time. What could be causing this problem? It doesn't have to be under hard acceleration either when it does shift hard. It sometimes is during hard accelerating and sometimes it is under very little acceleration, but as I said it doesn't do it every time. When it does shift hard, it seems to do it in all gears.
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I have an automatic 2010 Elantra Touring and I drive 115 miles a day (4 days a week) with it (currently have 38K miles). Part of the drive goes up over an 1100 foot foothill, so I change elevation of about 800 feet on the drive. Over the last two weeks, I have noticed the transmission shifting a little rougher and at higher RPMs (everywhere and not just going up the hill). The transmission fluid level looks good, but I am wondering if I need to change the fluid and filter? Or is there something else I need to look at? I need this car to last another three years and want to make sure I take care of it right. Currently every 3500 miles I change the oil and rotate the tires, but I am just not sure about the transmission.
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The drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
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I shift my auto trans to neutral when approaching a red light. My theory is it reduces brake wear, reduces tranny and motor wear while sitting at the light and uses less fuel to remain in neutral until the light changes. My wife thinks it may harm the tranny.
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I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota with 130,000 miles on it, 360 engine, automatic transmission, and I am the original owner. About three months ago it started not shifting out of first gear correctly. I can bring the speed up to 30 mph and let up on the accelerator and then it will shift up. Once it is going it shifts back and forth in the upper gears and I can override the overdrive just fine. I have towed a trailer during this time and the transmission is as strong as before. I have the oil and filter changed as per the owners manual. Years ago the owner of our local dealer and I had a dispute over the warranty on the front brakes locking up and he asked me not to darken his door ever again so I have obliged him and would rather not change this arrangement. The shop I have used for years cannot find any problem and no codes show up on the computer.
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It's an '03 Odyssey with 116K miles that has developed a hitch when shifting from second to third. It feels like an uncoordinated manual shift when the clutch is put in before the accelerator is lifted. Car revs 500 rpm before completing the shift. This only happens under load, such as when accelerating hard from a stop or moderate acceleration going up a hill. Not willing yet to let the dealer tell me I just need a new transmission and so few places deal with automatic repairs.
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I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
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