Recently my Elantra ac will not adjust and only blows super cold air, so I have to alternate between turning it off and on constantly. Now I discovered the heater will only blow cold air. What are the possible causes?
View 1 RepliesThe 2010 elantra touring gls has headlights that are angled too low. The low beams project toward the ground and its especially bad on hills, making it difficult to see more than 50 feet in front of you. The high beams are misaligned as well, the passenger side higher than the driver side. When the original owner went to the dealer after purchasing, they said they could not further adjust the angle. I find this hard to believe, but she drove it for 6 years like this.
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 elantra (160 k) ac is not working. The centre of the compressor doesn't turn when the ac is turned on and I don't hear any difference in the engine when turning it on (no extra load). I don't hear any clicks or anything for that matter. It just blows hot air.
From the research i have done it seems it doesn't necessarily mean the compressor is shot. It may just mean there is a leak in the evaporator core.
Is there a way to tell if the compressor is shot? I'm hearing that replacing the compressor is at least as twice as much as the evaporator core so I would like to go into a shop knowing one way or another.
I have a weird issue on my 2008 Elantra. The heater starts blowing luke warm/cold air after running for about 1 hour or so and stays like that.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
View 1 Replies2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
Is there a filter for the AC somewhere?
2001 F-350 gas
The air blows cold but it smells like something died in side it somewhere.
I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
View 2 RepliesI have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
View 1 RepliesMy wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
I just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
View 2 Replies2006 F250 with the dash controlled 4x4. I typically keep the front hubs locked on this truck. I have recently noticed that when shifting into 4x4 that the a/c or heat will switch from blowing out of the vents to blowing out of the defrosters. Any clues how to fix this?
View 1 RepliesIt will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Elantra and noticed after I start it when it's cold the rpm is about 1800rpm but doesn't drop. I never really payed attention on this car but my other cars would drop after a minute or so. Is this normal on the elantra or is something wrong?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
View 6 RepliesMy 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
My moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.