Elantra HD (2006-10) :: ABS And Handbrake Light On At Dashboard All The Time
Jun 7, 2013
I having the ABS and handbrake light on at dashboard all the time and I had sent my car to scan error code and error code as follow:
1) C1200
2) C2308
I having the ABS and handbrake light on at dashboard all the time and I had sent my car to scan error code and error code as follow:
1) C1200
2) C2308
I changed the bulb in my driver side brake light - routine -done a zillion bulb changes on my car. This time however the dashboard lights up every time I brake!! What gives? Something to do with the brake pedal triggering the brake light button in the footwell area under the dash? Its a 2000 Passat 1.8T sedan - manual tranny.
View 5 RepliesI noticed on the way home the "ready" light was on the whole time. I've never noticed it staying on before but maybe just didn't pay attention to it. Is it supposed to be on continuously? What exactly is it for?
View 12 RepliesI currently have a 2010 Hyundai elantra gls. And for the past couple of weeks. I've been having to constantly deal with my dashboard lights going out..causing my tail lights and passenger park light to go out as well. My fiance has replaced fuses every time. But it pops again.
View 1 RepliesWhat the problem is? still drive-able?
View 14 Replies2012 Elantra GLS. Wife comes home and says the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on the dash is lit. I check the tire pressure. None abnormally low but I decide to top them off. Notice that two of the valve stem caps are broken. The tips are broken off so I can see the little red gasket. On opposite sides of the car. No damage to the wheel covers. The valve stems don't stick out past the wheel covers so I wonder how the caps could have gotten broken. Could that be why the TPS system is giving me a warning? If by chance there was a pressure issue does the light reset itself or does the dealer have to do it?
View 19 RepliesAfter I release my handbrake and drive off, the vibration of driving causes my handbrake to slide out just enough to trigger the brake light to come on. The brake works fine I checked at the drums. It just slides out enough to trigger this light. As I drive I have to keep pushing it in, the light goes off but after a bit it goes on again and I keep pushing it in, evidently it keeps sliding out enough to keep triggering the light. I tried spraying the release and down the chute, sliding it in and out, with 3 and 1 oil and WD 40 but nothing seems to stop this annoying problem. I know there's nothing wrong with it but I can't get it to stop and I know it's just the vibration of driving that causes it to slip out just enough to trigger it.
Next month I have the NJ State inspection, and if they see the light, they're going to fail it when there's really nothing wrong with it.
1986 Toyota Hilux half ton 5 speed stick with the 22 R engine over 225K
2006 Hyundai Elantra. RPM's go flying everytime it's fired up. RPM's will drop once it's put into gear, reverse or drive and runs just fine afterwards. If it's not affecting how it drives should we just let it be? Is there anything to be concerned about?
View 2 Replies'07 Elantra GLS, around 150000 km, predominantly urban usage (city / highway).
I hear a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel to the left or right. The creaking is consistent the entire time the wheels are pivoting. Sometimes I hear the same creak when the body pitches during acceleration or deceleration. It seems to be more prevalent once the car is warmed up (after driving a few km) vs. when it's cold. There's also a bit of a dead zone in the steering control, you need to turn the wheel slightly (to the first creak) before the wheels react.
The sway bars were replaced around 6 months ago, as they had some play in them which could be heard when passing over a bump. The driver's side CV is also less than a year old. The external steering components (ball joints / sway bars / outer CV arms) appear to be in good repair with no play that can be attributed to the creaking.
My mechanic (independent - I tend not to go to my local dealer whenever possible) thinks that there is some play in the linkage between the steering column and the rack-and-pinion - the exposed universal joint behind the brake pedal does have a little bit of a wiggle to it. The noise appears to be coming from there, you can hear the creaking in the cabin as you turn, but outside, you can't really hear the creaking. He's also of the opinion that this is a very unusual symptom given the age of the car.
Looking for access to all the airbag light OBD II codes for the 2006 Hyundai Azera? My airbag light is illuminated on the dash board and I would like to isolate the issue.
View 9 RepliesI have no owners manual and cannot determine the meaning of this light indicator on my dashboard. It resembles a letter "U" more horseshape with the exclamation point in the middle of the U. How to determine the problem that this light indicates? BTW, I have been driving my car and concerned that continuing will damage.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 mariner that the ABS light is on all the time and the 4WD light flashes 8 times and the vehicle feels like it is in four wheel drive when turning only at slow speeds and usually in reverse but only when the vehicle has sat for a while, as if you parked for a hour then pulled out of the stall and were turning the wheel.
Tone rings on all wheels are good and all speed sensors have good continuity. Have a friend that works at Ford dealership and he got a tech to scan the car for me. Scan showed the left rear wheel sensor at fault so that's what I'll replace.
O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
View 2 RepliesI am new to the world of maintaining my own car. I had an issue this morning when I drove my 2011 Elantra. The car started jerking from time to time while i was driving. So I ended up going back home and swapping cars. Other than a coming up oil change, what could the issue with my car be? I am at about 43k miles.
View 7 RepliesPrius 2010 UK model, rattle noise coming from the dashboard between the speaker grill and the A shaped trim/glass window driver side (UK model) every time I accelerate, is there constantly all the time, is driving crazy, 9 hours a day in the car most of the week and this bloody annoying rattle. Can't stand it anymore.
View 5 Replies2008 3.3L 77,800 miles (approx). Bought this car as a replacement for my totaled 2006 back in May 2011. I have noticed on morning starts or hot starts after car has sat for about 30 min, a 'Rod knock" sound that quits exactly at the same time the oil light goes out. I bought this car with 60K on it, with all 60K maintenance items done by dealer. I have since replaced oil on 5K intervals, have used 5w-30, 5w-20. Genuine Hyundai filters and one Fram cartridge. Nothing has changed. The car runs ok, other than horrible gas mileage ( average 2.8 LESS than my '06 under same conditions and verified by manual calculations). While the car runs ok, the noise unnerves me every time i hear it. Once i get lights out on oil pressure it never is heard again until the next start. Is this something I need to be concerned with? I had a sample of the oil analyzed at 65k, and came back good.
View 3 RepliesThe ABS and ESC lights (amber) in my 06 Sonata are coming on intermittently.....
The lights just come on while driving....the ESC switch doesnt have any effect.....the brakes seem to work well....then, after several start cycles the lights will go out and all will be well again....then after a few start cycles and while driving they come on again.
I used the code tester from autozone but no codes are stored...they told me that brake codes aren't always accessible with their hand held unit though....
Also, I have noticed that when turning left or right I get a squeaking from the front brakes now and then,...it was doing this before the ABS/ESC light issue though...
However I did get a code for the brake light switch and replaced it. Then the same code happened again and everything started acting up and not working again. The strange part is that even though I got the brake light switch code my brake lights still work. The only thing that stops working is my cruise control intermittently.
View 3 RepliesAfter taking my car to 2008 Lexus GS 350 AWD for an oil change and recall fix, I noticed my iJDMToy LED Parking Lights and Xentec HID for Fog Lamps have stopped working and just blink a very low light the entire time. The parking light starts working fine when the main head lights are off, but as soon as I turn them on, they start to blink again. The fog lamps just constantly blink at a low light level while on. Here is an example:
Light issues - YouTube
I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that when I drive at highway speeds and it's wet out, my air bad light comes on and about 50% of the time, the radio, fan, windshield wipers, and 12v outlet stop working suggesting the fuse or some other wiring is getting wet. The dealer cannot replicate and will not suggest any fixes. What do I have my local mechanic replace or seal?
I know there's a Chrysler recall on 2005-2006 Caravans, #J38, but my Caravan falls outside the specs by 2 mths (it was for vehicles in service between Jan 2005 and April 2006).
2 days ago i drove to a store, went in and came back out, started the car up and the EPS light was on. It would switch from either blinking or solid on. The steering still to this point works just fine, and i can not feel any difference in it.
The next day while i was waiting for a ride to get the car dropped at the garage, i went to start the car up and it was drained. Lights still came on but it didnt have enough to turn over. Upon a jump it worked fine, and would continue to run ok. It would restart after that quite a few times, even with full electric load on before starting(ac/radio/all lights/so on). Battery tested at 30% charge and 12v output, couldnt check amps at auto zone because of low charge. Since its factory battery from a 2010 model i just went and replaced it anways.
Since that point i have had both battery and alternator tested, both working fully. The EPS light remains on, and the car still acts 100% normal after 2 days of light driving.
Is it possible the dying battery could have some how messed with the EPS system causing that, and only that, light to turn on? If so, short of having the codes reset at the garage, would it be safe to continue light driving, or should i take it in right away?