Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 - Throttle Goes From Idle 650 - 700 Right To About 2000 RPM
Feb 5, 2010
When sitting in Neutral or Park with the engine warm, my throttle goes from idle 650-700 right to about 2000 RPM. I have 14,000kms on it now. The fast idle works OK at RPMS between that OK when the engine is cold so it doesn't look like a ECU Problem.
There is no way that the RPM can be set lower, when attempting to go lower it drops right to idle. The dealer says the TPS is testing OK, but it never did this when new. It used to go gradually right up the scale.
What the dealer TPS testing actually measures? I suspect that it only measures the output voltage to be within requirements of 5 to .2vdc, but doesn't have anyway to measure a linear change in voltage that should be taking place when the throttle is depressed. And since the engine never tries to speed up unexpectedly except under no load conditions like this, they say it is normal and won't change the TPS.
My guess is that the TPS resistor is not working linearly and that the first part of the throttle movement doesn't change the output voltage to allow throttle setting for a lower RPM than 2000 under a no load condition only.
Remember you can only test this in park or neutral with no load and the engine warm.
Further investigation has shown that the TPS output is linear and the ECU just doesn't react to changes in voltage that will allow the engine to run at less than approx. 2000RPM under a no load condition. Apparently all the 2.0 litre engines perform the same way by design.
It would seem to indicate that safely controlling your vehicle with precise fuel adjustment in tight places is not necessary by someones standards.
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Have a 2009 Elantra 4 door, manual. It is at 52000 kilometers and recently in the spring changed the oil, I run Full synthetic.
Lately its been really hot and the following problem occurs, no engine light or anything. But if I start the car cold it idles no problem, nice an smooth, If I go out for a 30min drive, come back and let it idle its rough. Not crazy rough but its rougher than it should be. I have no power issues, it pulls well, never stalls. If I shut it down and wait a few hours, engine still hot, but not super hot, start her up and runs well, no rough idle.
Go out for a 15-20 min drive and park it, idles rough. I checked the usual, wires, plugs, pvc valve seems good. Engine temp is normal also. I did some searches on the site but come up mostly with cold idle issues, not great when cold not so when hot.
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A few weeks ago I noticed a fluctuation in my car's heater. The heater blows really hot when driving, and blows cold when the car is idling or coasting. I read up on the forums to check the coolant levels, which were full since my last fluid change a few months ago. The next step seemed to be to change the thermostat. I changed the thermostat and the heater acts the same, and since then the car has begun intermittently overheating. The temperature warning will flash on for maybe about a minute, then go back off. I have been running the heater on full blast trying to keep the car from overheating.
This brings me to a couple of questions:
There's an arrow on the thermostat. Does this need to point toward the radiator, or straight up?
In moving the air cleaner housing to get to the thermostat, I lost two of the little clips that hold it shut. Is this critical?
If the thermostat is good, and the coolant levels are good, there's no air in the system and I don't have any leaks, what could this be?
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Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
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I have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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I bought a 2009 f150 5.4 with 150000 miles on it. I have a slight hesitation from idle so I want to clean the throttle body. I found several for the older f150"s with the horizontal throttle body but this 2009 has a vertical mounted one. I change the air filter and cleaned the MAF but didn't change anything. My wife's ford 500 had this problem and cleaning the throttle body completely cured it.
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Noticed this in the last couple of weeks. On light throttle acceleration the 1-2 shift seems perfectly normal, but 2-3 occurs rather sooner than previously, and 3-4 seems to go through neutral (tach climbs maybe 250-500 rpm for maybe a second or so) rather than a solid shift. Getting on the freeway (WOT), seems normal, and other than light throttle if there's a problem with shift points, I don't notice it.
Maybe an issue with relearn/reprogram? Car is low mileage, adult driven, 16,721 miles of easy highway and local driving.
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My Sonata has developed a hesitation when accelerating from a standstill. Sometimes the symptom is worse. I haven't identified any correlation of this symptom with any other scenarios.
Symptom : When at a stand-still, lightly pressing on the gas pedal doesn't result in corresponding slow acceleration, it is only after a certain threshold (of throttle application) has passed that power from the engine is transmitted to the wheels. When this occurs, the result is a jerky start.
In other words, trying to feather the gas pedal to allow a gradual and smooth acceleration from stand-still is not possible when this issue occurs.
I believe the 09' Sonata has a drive by wire throttle correct? If so, could this be a computer calibration issue?
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I recently bought a 2006 that idles rough, not real bad, but bad enough for me (and my 9 year old kid!) to notice. I asked the dealer where I bought it and they put it on the computer and said everything checked out. He said "it's a characteristic of this motor." I've never heard of such a thing. The truck has 27,000 miles on it and the dealer flushed the fuel system. He said the throttle plate had a lot of carbon on it, but it still idles rough... 4.6 idle rough?
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I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
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I own a 2010 elantra. I'm going through plugs like crazy. I've changed it twice and the dealer has changed them twice for a total of 4 sets. I have 64000 Kms on my car. The problem is rough idle when ac is on. I'm assuming drag or load on the engine makes plugs work harder.. So the last two sets of plugs the dealer showed me the plug and the white spark plug casing was burned through? Kinda getting sick of the bandage approach the dealer is throwing at me. He said if it happens again which I'm sure it will they will sort it out in more detail to find the cause.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and noticed after I start it when it's cold the rpm is about 1800rpm but doesn't drop. I never really payed attention on this car but my other cars would drop after a minute or so. Is this normal on the elantra or is something wrong?
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I just bought a 2008 Elantra SE with 26K miles. So far, I've really enjoyed it, except for, at times, it does vibrate somewhat during idle.
I took it to the nearest Hyundai dealer, and they clipped the throttle cables to the inside of the firewall. This did make some improvement, but I still feel vibration during idle when the engine is warm (doesn't seem to as long as RPMs are up). It's almost as if the idle is set a little too low.
Maybe this is just normal vibration? It's not too bad, just noticeable. Can idle in these cars be adjusted? It seems the car is too new to have clogged fuel injectors. Everything else about driving it feels great, acceleration, etc. Do you think using a higher octane gas would work?
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I recently purchased a 2009 elantra and the hazards dont work but both blinkers do I need to get it inspected but it won't pass without hazard lights.
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My 2009 elantra (160 k) ac is not working. The centre of the compressor doesn't turn when the ac is turned on and I don't hear any difference in the engine when turning it on (no extra load). I don't hear any clicks or anything for that matter. It just blows hot air.
From the research i have done it seems it doesn't necessarily mean the compressor is shot. It may just mean there is a leak in the evaporator core.
Is there a way to tell if the compressor is shot? I'm hearing that replacing the compressor is at least as twice as much as the evaporator core so I would like to go into a shop knowing one way or another.
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I have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
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My moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
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I'm having with my 2008 Elantra. In short, the car stalls when I'm at a stop, and then for a period of time, I cannot get the car in park or turn it off. When I am eventually able to get it to do so, I turn it back on, and it restarts like nothing ever happened. The full details are below. The dealership is clueless, and I am so upset/frustrated.
Three weeks ago, I was slowed down at a yield sign, and when I tried to inch forward, my car stalled. The radio, AC, etc. were all still on, but I could not move forward. I noticed the EPS light on on my dash. I also could not turn the wheel or shift the car into park (could only get it into neutral), and therefore, could not turn off the car/get the key out.
After cops pushed me into a parking lot, the car sat for a bit (still technically "on"). Eventually, a friend got in and forced the wheel to move a bit in each direction, and was able to put the car in park and turn it off. When we turned it back on, the engine started and everything appeared fine. I canceled the tow and drove it home.
I took the car to where I bought it and was told there was a technical service bulletin related to the powertrain control module, and they recommended I take it to the dealership to be fixed. The first Hyundai dealership I took it to said they addressed the TSB, and also recommended I clean out the fuel line as that may have been affecting it ($150). Because it had been awhile since I'd done anything like that and the work was relatively in expensive, I said sure, got my car back and went back to my life...
Fast forward to this week. I'm driving in rush hour traffic, and the SAME THING happens again. I immediately tried to move the wheel around to get the car in park and restart, to no avail. I called a tow. After some time passed, the same thing happened again -- we were able to get the car in park, turned it off, turned it back on and it seemed normal again.
I had the car towed to another Hyundai dealership, explained the situation and they tested and drove it around a bit over two days, but because they are unable to recreate the issue and no codes appear, they can't do anything for me.
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