Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 - Speed Sensing Door Lock System
Mar 11, 2010
I am considering bringing my 2009 Hyundai Elantra to the dealer to have the speed sensing door lock system enabled! With the system enabled do both the driver and passenger doors unlock when you put the car back in park?
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra (GLS, I think). I was having problems with the factory alarm, and while troubleshooting that, I found that the lock on the rear door (drivers side) works well manually, but fails (won't lock or unlock) most of the time when using the key fob or the master lock switch on the drivers door. I'm pretty sure the actuator for the door lock/latch is going bad, and I'd like to take it off the vehicle for inspection and if bad, replace it.
So, I took the door panel off, and found there is a huge aluminum cover over most of the door, with about 9 bolts holding it on. I can't seem to get it off, to gain access to the interior of the door where the actuator is mounted. I've tried the local Hyundai dealership, local auto parts stores, but how to remove it. Removing the bolts lets me pry it away enough to peek inside, but I can't find what's holding that aluminum cover on.
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I have had this Elantra for over 7 years now and it has given me faultless service - up to now. Some months ago I noticed that when I operated my personal locking key, the drivers side lock would not operate. More recently, this problem seems to be getting worse. Its not a problem leaving the car as I can manually operate the switch but opening the front door requires me to crawl in from the rear door to unlock it. When I operate the door lock with the key, I see the lock attempting to move but remains in its position. I've tried several alternatives like using my wife's keys but the system remains resolute. By the way, where is the antenna that receives signals from the key?
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My '07 Elantra wont open from the outside handle, and it also wont unlock when using the key fob. Is it possible I have a bad actuator?
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I have a 2010 Elantra where the rear driver door randomly won't shut. The lock intermittently won't engage and the door just swings back at you. Happened twice and I just thought nothing of it and played around until it closed. I was at my dealership (for another problem) and I opened that door to get something out of the backseat and the door just swung back at me when I shut it. They kept the car and lubed it up and said it was working fine. 2 weeks later it happened again when I was running errands and it took me half an hour to get it to close again.
This particular thing apparently isn't covered under warranty so my solution was don't open the door. Now my trunk is doing it too! The trunk has always sporadically opened on its own every now and then and I always thought maybe I was pushing the button on the transmitter... Nope! My car went back to the dealership for the trunk and the door. They got my trunk to close by "fiddling around" and couldn't recreate the door not closing and both APPEARED to be working fine. The next day the trunk wouldn't close again. I got it to close by playing around with the lock and the transmitter. It opened again while I was driving.
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Love the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
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There is a faint but noticeable clicking noise in the air circulation system in my Elantra.
Last year the heater went and a new fan OEM was put in. I started to hear it then to the best of my recollection. Did not report the problem to my service (a privately owned auto repair place.) until after last winter.
One fan was replaced after the heater repair. That's two and I thought the noise was gone. But lately I heard it again, returned to the repair shop and they checked the warranty and installed another with new warranty. Two of them could not hear it and it winds down to me as hearing things not there or looking in the wrong place.
The exit suggestion was that there might be something in the air ducts which bring air to the cabin.
The clicking (like a cricket is variable with the 4 position fan speed control-- silent at the off position.
The shop owner informed me that taking the dash off and going through the ducts is a big job.
I thought of using a high powered vacuum at the service station.
They told me don't blow any compressed air into the ducts ans that will blow the filters out of place and a big headache.
The fan is new for the third time. It is not obstructed though the installation today revealed a leaf. The the cabin filter is not to blame-- that was done a few months ago.
Having phantom noise problems that sound like a cricket or electrical short as described above-- variable with speed of the fan etc?
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Is it possible to disable the speed sensing autolock feature on the Accent?
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MY 04 Excursion limited has 154k miles on it. Up until about 2 weeks ago the RSS worked great. Then the light on the dash that turns the RSS off when you are backing up a trailer was intermittently on/off then it stayed on the whole time. The switch doesn't lock in one position. Like the clicker is bad. I got a new switch hoping this would fix the problem and Momma could back her school bus up with no problems. Not so. I checked out all the sensors and when you get in front of them individually you can hear them clicking. but the switch is still stuck in off. I disconnected the battery and reset the system and it still doesn't work. I cant find any schematics in my Haynes/Chilton manual for this system. there is no fuse for it in the owners manual.
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So for 90,000 miles my reverse sensing system worked like a dream, now suddenly it shuts itself off intermittently. No codes stored in the system.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
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I recently had my wheel hub and bearing replaced. The mechanic said I might hear a little noise with the brakes but they'd work. Turns out that noise is the Anti-lock braking system engaging every time I use the brakes. It happens when the car speed gets low, maybe 5-15 mph. Also, if I'm driving slow in a parking lot or something, and let off the gas, that change in speed sets the ABS system on too, without my foot being on the brake pedal.
I've also noticed sometimes when the weather is very cold, the ABS light will go on and the ABS brakes won't work; just regular brakes. Is this something that I'd be able to solve at home? Could I possibly bleed the brake lines to check for any air ( although braking seems fine ) , busted fuse for the system, anything else to check before asking the mechanic?
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My friend's 2012 Elantra's driver's door lock has started acting up intermittently. Sometimes the door locks, sometimes it doesn't. It won't do it on command so it can't be taken to the dealer to be looked at. Has this problem been cropping up on the 2012 models? He has had it for almost 2 years and has about 22000 miles.
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Want to confirm if this is a malfunction or a normal behavior:
The Auto Door Lock function in my 2016 Elantra VP seems to be behaving oddly.
1) If I do not lock or forget to lock the doors using the remote or the door button after exiting the car, all 4 doors remain unlocked even after 24 hours. For security reasons, I expected that the doors should get auto-locked after some time when the vehicle key/remote has been out of the vehicle for a substantial amount of time. However, this is not happening to my surprise.
2) After driving a few miles when I have stopped the car and turned off the ignition, I sometimes find that the Passenger and Rear Doors have locked automatically by themselves whereas sometimes they remain all unlocked. I have not noticed any particular pattern when the Passenger/Rear doors are getting auto-locked by themselves and when they are not. It seems random to me.
Is it a malfunction in my car? The owner's manual does not specify anything in particular about such behavior.
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it seems that when you get in the car and drive away, the doors don't lock themselves automatically, which is a big surprise to me since my previous 2003 focus had this feature.
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2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
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My '09 Platinum has rain-sensing wipers, and I do not like them at all. They are always going to high-speed when it's not raining that hard or they don't do anything at all when there's a mist that needs cleaned off.
The wiper stick has HIGH, LOW, and various INTERMITTENT settings. Any of the INTERMITTENT settings are AUTO for me. I'm constantly messing with it to get the wipers to act correctly. I just want to turn them off. How can it be done?
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I have been having a problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra power door locks, the power door lock switch only works in one direction. It only opens all of the doors locks, but doesn't lock them so I have to manually lock all of the doors. I am pretty sure that the power door lock relays have gone bad, so I was wondering where the relays are located on Hyundai Elantra 2006 so I can swap out the old relay with the new relay.
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I just got a used 06 elantra gls. The drivers side lock seems like it doesn't have enough power to unlock its self when I try to use the power locking. It unlocks fine with the key.
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS
I'm trying to troubleshoot my inoperable power door locks. The door panel button doesn't lock or unlock any of the doors. Fuse #15 appears to be good so I'm trying to test the actuator.
I've removed the door panel and I can see where the actuator is located but I'm stumped as to how to remove it.
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The driver's door has stopped locking all together except with the key. It won't lock by using the button on inside either. It was an intermittent problem, now it's constant.
I've found DIY's on the earlier years, but nothing on the 2007+.
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