Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 - Phantom Noise In Air Circulation System
Sep 1, 2015
There is a faint but noticeable clicking noise in the air circulation system in my Elantra.
Last year the heater went and a new fan OEM was put in. I started to hear it then to the best of my recollection. Did not report the problem to my service (a privately owned auto repair place.) until after last winter.
One fan was replaced after the heater repair. That's two and I thought the noise was gone. But lately I heard it again, returned to the repair shop and they checked the warranty and installed another with new warranty. Two of them could not hear it and it winds down to me as hearing things not there or looking in the wrong place.
The exit suggestion was that there might be something in the air ducts which bring air to the cabin.
The clicking (like a cricket is variable with the 4 position fan speed control-- silent at the off position.
The shop owner informed me that taking the dash off and going through the ducts is a big job.
I thought of using a high powered vacuum at the service station.
They told me don't blow any compressed air into the ducts ans that will blow the filters out of place and a big headache.
The fan is new for the third time. It is not obstructed though the installation today revealed a leaf. The the cabin filter is not to blame-- that was done a few months ago.
Having phantom noise problems that sound like a cricket or electrical short as described above-- variable with speed of the fan etc?
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I am considering bringing my 2009 Hyundai Elantra to the dealer to have the speed sensing door lock system enabled! With the system enabled do both the driver and passenger doors unlock when you put the car back in park?
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I am trying to understand how the air circulation, fan system works in the 2012 Camry Hybrid XLE. These days I have fan turned off (the temperature or fan speed does not display). Only the mode is displayed (towards face). However when I drive, sometimes I feel slight cool air coming from the air vents. This is very noticeable when I drive in cold weather as I get rather hot air coming out from the vents. How does this happen? Is this normal?
Now I understand that when I do turn on the fan, the air speed venting out increases and the temperature is what seems to be ambient on the outside of the car (no AC).
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I am getting frustrated with a loud banging noise in the front end of my Elantra. It happens when I hit bumps or dips in the road. I have replaced struts, bearings and mounts, sway bar links, control arm bushings and nothing will fix it. The ball joints and tie rods are tight.
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I have a 2009 Elantra with 150k miles. It has recently started making a squeaking noise when I make left turns. It only does it when the car is moving and only when the turns are moderate to sharp (not on gentle turns). It seems to be coming from the engine bay but I can't really tell for sure. I had the steering column replaced last year. I haven't had any warning lights or adverse driving effects. I have posted a video on youtube with the noise.
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I just purchased a 2009 Hyundai Elantra a few months ago.. I have been hearing a rattling/ clunking noise around the rear glass area. I brought it to a local dealership and they thought that it was the bracket for the trunk lid rods. They replaced the bracket and the noise is still there..
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For 2009 and 2010 f150's with the 5.4L engine, this may apply to you.
About a month back I got some odd vibrations at start-up and while driving and the following codes:
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation error
P0349 - Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation Interim.
These codes are common in the previous generation truck for various reasons. In my case, I started trying to troubleshoot with the easiest solutions first.
Checked the battery - fully charged.
Checked/played with the alternator connection and related wiring - looked good.
Checked the oil - it was down at the half mark on the dipstick, so toped it off with synthetic oil.
Cleared the codes, and now have been driving for a month, no issues, no codes!
If these codes come up for other folks, try the easiest on the list first, before bringing to the dealer... these codes can be really hard to solve, but sometimes we can get lucky.
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I have a big red triangle on the pump is making noises not loud noises sounds like it's operating correctly there is no turbulence in reservoir and when I squeeze the hose the level in the reservoir goes up-and-down which leads me to believe there is no blockage in the pipe coming out of out of the pump.
My handheld scanner and torque on my android tablet only gave me my oxygen sensor code which I know about and I'm going to replace when the weather gets hot I am wondering if the coolant pump would throw a code that these devices would be able to pick up or do I need to go to the dealer or find a shop which is capable of reading the HYbrid codes?
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Every so often my entire Navigation system becomes unusable. The screen freezes, and audio shuts off. The screen can be turned off, but the only way to get it back working again is to turn car off for about 2 minutes and then it goes back to normal.
I can't tell if it's from overheating or not?
The car is a 2010 w/ under 3,000 miles on it. I am debating waiting until my first service and have them just look at it then. (I have full extended warranty - I am on the road a lot so I always buy them).
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Throughout the summer, when the AC was off, in fact the whole system was off, the AC light would flicker on and off, but would never do this when the system was on. Today, the AC stopped working out of nowhere. We are on vacation in a warm destination, so AC would be nice, even though it is almost December. We also want to spend our money on our vacation, not AC repair.
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I recently purchased a 2009 elantra and the hazards dont work but both blinkers do I need to get it inspected but it won't pass without hazard lights.
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My 2009 elantra (160 k) ac is not working. The centre of the compressor doesn't turn when the ac is turned on and I don't hear any difference in the engine when turning it on (no extra load). I don't hear any clicks or anything for that matter. It just blows hot air.
From the research i have done it seems it doesn't necessarily mean the compressor is shot. It may just mean there is a leak in the evaporator core.
Is there a way to tell if the compressor is shot? I'm hearing that replacing the compressor is at least as twice as much as the evaporator core so I would like to go into a shop knowing one way or another.
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I have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
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Have a 2009 Elantra 4 door, manual. It is at 52000 kilometers and recently in the spring changed the oil, I run Full synthetic.
Lately its been really hot and the following problem occurs, no engine light or anything. But if I start the car cold it idles no problem, nice an smooth, If I go out for a 30min drive, come back and let it idle its rough. Not crazy rough but its rougher than it should be. I have no power issues, it pulls well, never stalls. If I shut it down and wait a few hours, engine still hot, but not super hot, start her up and runs well, no rough idle.
Go out for a 15-20 min drive and park it, idles rough. I checked the usual, wires, plugs, pvc valve seems good. Engine temp is normal also. I did some searches on the site but come up mostly with cold idle issues, not great when cold not so when hot.
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I have a 2009 Elantra with a hair over 107 000 km. Recently I have been having an issue whee the EPS (Electronic Power Steering) has been randomly turn off while driving. This has occurred anywhere from once a week two twice in 10 min. It has happened immediately after starting the car or after driving for half an hour. There is no visible or audible sign when the EPS shuts off other than a small warning light on the instrument panel.
I am very worried about the safety risk this poses to me and the vehicles around me as when the EPS turns off the car is very difficult to steer, so I would like to get this fixed ASAP. What I should be looking at? Is this something I can fix myself (I'm not very car savy) or should I be taking it to a mechanic/dealership?
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Got a cel on a 2009 Elantra the other day. Put my cheapie code reader on it and got a double hit on P0441. It showed two codes, both P0441. This is the first time I got this code. I had gotten gas the day before and thought it might be from over filling or a loose gas cap like my S10. I made sure the gas cap was tight and went to reset the code. It would not reset even though the code reader said "Done". Checked today and there is only 1 P0441 code showing. Tried to reset, but the same thing. Code reader says "Done" and the code remains.
Car starts and runs fine. I see no loose wires or anything amiss. I did hit a curb a few days ago. What could I have knocked loose? Do I need to go to someone with a better code reader? Is this a drive cycle thing?
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My wife just noticed a weird sound when coming home from work this morning. When backing up, you can hear what sounds like a clicking sound coming the car. The noise doesn't happen if the car is stopped and in reverse. It starts when you start to move and the faster you go, the louder and faster the clicking is. After this, I now found out my sister's boyfriend backed into the car last night pushing it down the driveway while it was in park. From my understanding, the car moved about 6 or maybe a little more inches. There is no damage to the bumper except the part that came unclipped which I just pushed back together with my hand and it's fine. The license plate is a bit bent though. It's an 09 auto and the park break was not engaged during last night's incident. What it could be? It sounds like it's coming from the front somewhere but I can't pinpoint where. I looked at the front under the hood close to the bumper but see no physical damage. I'm thinking CV or axle.
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When sitting in Neutral or Park with the engine warm, my throttle goes from idle 650-700 right to about 2000 RPM. I have 14,000kms on it now. The fast idle works OK at RPMS between that OK when the engine is cold so it doesn't look like a ECU Problem.
There is no way that the RPM can be set lower, when attempting to go lower it drops right to idle. The dealer says the TPS is testing OK, but it never did this when new. It used to go gradually right up the scale.
What the dealer TPS testing actually measures? I suspect that it only measures the output voltage to be within requirements of 5 to .2vdc, but doesn't have anyway to measure a linear change in voltage that should be taking place when the throttle is depressed. And since the engine never tries to speed up unexpectedly except under no load conditions like this, they say it is normal and won't change the TPS.
My guess is that the TPS resistor is not working linearly and that the first part of the throttle movement doesn't change the output voltage to allow throttle setting for a lower RPM than 2000 under a no load condition only.
Remember you can only test this in park or neutral with no load and the engine warm.
Further investigation has shown that the TPS output is linear and the ECU just doesn't react to changes in voltage that will allow the engine to run at less than approx. 2000RPM under a no load condition. Apparently all the 2.0 litre engines perform the same way by design.
It would seem to indicate that safely controlling your vehicle with precise fuel adjustment in tight places is not necessary by someones standards.
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One morning my 09' Elantra didn't start. It sounded like it was only the starter running. I checked the spark and there wasn't any. I checked the fuel injector pulse and got nothing. Occasionally I could get it to start just by trying a bunch of times but never more then once in a row (or day for that matter).
I decided to replace the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The first time it took a bit but started up and ran nicely, till i turned it off. Now I'm back to a no start car and again with no spark or fuel injector pulse. It does feel like it's trying to turn over just a little bit now that i replaced the sensor.
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I got a 09 Elantra and my rear windows will not roll up.. unless I use the switches in the rear doors. So, from the front I can roll them down but not up. if i need to roll them back up I have to get out open the rear door and use the switch in that door.
I am hoping it is the switch.. but which one? the one in the front doors. or the ones in the rear doors?
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