Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 - No Crank / Start
Dec 4, 2016
I have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
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One morning my 09' Elantra didn't start. It sounded like it was only the starter running. I checked the spark and there wasn't any. I checked the fuel injector pulse and got nothing. Occasionally I could get it to start just by trying a bunch of times but never more then once in a row (or day for that matter).
I decided to replace the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The first time it took a bit but started up and ran nicely, till i turned it off. Now I'm back to a no start car and again with no spark or fuel injector pulse. It does feel like it's trying to turn over just a little bit now that i replaced the sensor.
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So the situation is my battery died on my car and whenever I go to jump it the alarm goes off as soon as the cables connect. I let it sit for a minute and the alarm goes off for a period then turns off, then it starts going off again then turns off repeating this. The car wont turn over and I can't figure out how to turn off the alarm. How to get it to jump/turn off the alarm while it charges? I wont take it to the dealer to get it fixed unless its 100% something I can't do at home.
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Love the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
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Ok. 2007 Elantra SE about 73k miles
Woke up yesterday car wouldn't start. Engine would try and crank but no ignition. Came home for lunch tried it again, no luck. Let it crank 2 or 3 times about 30 sec. each no luck. Then all of a sudden it started right up. Shut it off and started right up again. Did this 5 or 6 times, it started right up each time.
After work I came home, tried to start it. No luck. Pumped the gas a couple of times let it crank for a while. Nothing. Then after a couple of tries, it started. Went to Autozone had the battery and charging system checked, all good. Put some gas in it and came home. All this time it started right up each time.
Later that night about 4 hours later I went to try it and no go. After about 5 minutes of repeatedly trying it came on eventually.
This morning I went out, pumped the gas twice and it started right up. Shut it off and started again about 5 times in a row. It seemed to run a little rough. Just slight shake that seems like miss or something.
What could be the problem. No check engine light. Fuel system, ignition system, some sensor??
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Preparing for a timing belt replacement on a 2007 elantra. well aware of how to remove the crank pulley and do the job. My question is this : once you have the nut off, does the crank pulley come off by hand or is a puller required? came off nicely wiggling it by hand on any accent i've done, but never done this particular job with the elantra.
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I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
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Been having an issue with my gt manual trans cranking but not starting. It will start up the second attempt every time. I have the touch and go package. I thought it was because I had low fuel level the first couple times it happened. however, now I've noticed it at 3/4 of a tank and on level ground.
I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything. They even said they talked to a tech assist line and they had no known issues of this.
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Dealing with mother in law's 01 Elantra GT. 175k miles, unknown history for the most part except for recent maintenance.
Having some issues now. The car will not start..the battery is fine and that is ruled out. The car will intermittently not crank...it could be days, but luckily I have the car today and the situation is currently happening. All my dash lights and electricals work fine.
It is an automatic car.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal. I looked at the switch near the pedal and it appears to function properly but see below.
When I turn the key, I can hear noise from the cruise control module underneath the hood, but nothing else. No clicking, no crank. Dash lights don't change except the clock fades out, but turns back on when key is off the start position.
I thought maybe something with shifter. In the Run key position, I can sometimes shift it out of park and into another gear...but sometimes not. It seems that changing how I press the brake pedal affects whether I can get it out of park.
The car was perfectly fine earlier today and that is why this is so strange. Sometimes it would leave her stranded, sometimes it works fine.
When I do shift out of gear, the dashboard reflects the proper gear on the digital display.
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The car was rear ended about a month ago, with minor bumper damage. A couple of days later it would not start or crank at all. I replaced the starter and solenoid unit and it appeared to be fixed. However, the car would not start or crank on a couple of occasions after the starter replacement. What might be going on? Maybe a bad starter? 2009 Base Camry...
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I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
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I have a major issue the wife 09 camry won't crank nor start. It all happened after i touched the alternator and heat shield with a rachet . She was complaining about her battery light coming on and flashing so I goes out to see and noticed the ark coming from the alternator so i reached down to touch the wire while the car running and hit both the heat shield and alternator together sparks jumped off of course . I shut the running car off then tightrb up the alternator loose bolt. When I tried to restart the car it wouldn't turn over. I checked most of the fuses and now I'm lost and stuck....
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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Check engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.
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It was the worst tonight that it has been in a while; I needed to crank the car 3 times to get it to start; mind you when it runs, it runs great.
With a bit of research, this is looking like a fuel pump/check valve problem. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent GS, would this mean I need to replace the fuel pump assembly?
If this is the case, I want to do a beta swap over the summer. If this works out, should I upgrade the fuel pump/does the fuel pump need to be upgraded? and if so, would the upgraded pump cause other issues?
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I've Sonata 2006 and it's just fine no problems at all, until this problem comes. When I start the car the engine crank but not start, RMPs is jumping to 4 then into 0.. I checked fuel pump, battery and sparks all are good.
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I have a 2006 Sonata v6 with about 140k. The other day, I tired starting the car and I heard a "click" but no cranking. (For definitions, a click is a single staccato sound "kuh"; cranking would be the sound of the engine trying to start and just not able to make it "kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh"). I thought maybe I wasn't in park, so I jiggled the gear shift a little and then it started. I'm not sure I actually did anything, but it started and I figured it was a once and only problem. Well, I had the problem again tonight. In Park and Neutral I get a click. In Reverse and Drive, I get nothing. So it seems like Park is recognized. The battery is fully charged, but for god measure, I charged it anyway. Nothing unusual about the weather - 50s and dry. The car is parked on flat ground. I didn't just fill up. I can't think of anything different that I'm doing.
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The factory remote start is not working on my 2009 F 250. The red light is lit when I push the button, the doors lock and you can hear something engage in the engine but it does not crank it. If I keep holding the button the alarm starts to go off. When I walk up to truck the radio is on and I need to hit the remote start button to shut everything down before manually staring.
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I have been having this issue randomly, sometimes it won't occur for days and other times it happens in a short period. I will place my key in the ignition, and everything will chime correctly, and when I turn over my engine, it sounds like the engine catches then it just stalls. The things I have changed so far is,
battery ( needed to be changed anyways)
spark plugs ( was set to be changed)
air filter
cabin air filter ( no relevant but still...)
oil
At first I thought it could be bad gas, since I fill up sometimes at safeways etc, but in my tank right now is 91 octane shell, I thought it could be spark plugs since I was a little over due so I changed them, and the issue never popped up for 2 more weeks, then it came back.
if I use my car starter it seems to start better, but it is maybe 1 out of 10 times it will just crank continuously without catching or anything.
I can hear my fuel pump whirl when the key is turned but not started, I checked the oil today and it is full and a light color, maybe 500 km on this oil change.
Here is the youtube issue of what is happening... [URL] ......
I rather cover most of my bases without having to bring it in for servicing.
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I Have a sonata 2007 2.4L automatic and I just had a start problem today. I turned the start key and nothing no crank, all the light in the dashboard are ok, i can hear the fuel pump and my batery is fine. I tried 5 time to start it and nothing I wait 10 minutes and the car started ..
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