Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 - AC Not Working / Just Blows Hot Air
Jul 1, 2014
My 2009 elantra (160 k) ac is not working. The centre of the compressor doesn't turn when the ac is turned on and I don't hear any difference in the engine when turning it on (no extra load). I don't hear any clicks or anything for that matter. It just blows hot air.
From the research i have done it seems it doesn't necessarily mean the compressor is shot. It may just mean there is a leak in the evaporator core.
Is there a way to tell if the compressor is shot? I'm hearing that replacing the compressor is at least as twice as much as the evaporator core so I would like to go into a shop knowing one way or another.
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Recently my Elantra ac will not adjust and only blows super cold air, so I have to alternate between turning it off and on constantly. Now I discovered the heater will only blow cold air. What are the possible causes?
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I have a weird issue on my 2008 Elantra. The heater starts blowing luke warm/cold air after running for about 1 hour or so and stays like that.
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clarification: temperature control works as expected on driver side. Only hot air comes out on the passenger side.
1. Most of the problems of this sort seemed to have been solved by replacing an actuator - air blend actuator, vent door actuator, etc are the terms used. Are these all different names for the same actuator? Or are there two actuators?
2. The problems occurs regardless of the DUAL setting so I think it is unlikely to be a temperature sensor problem.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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Over the last half of the summer my A/C stopped working on three separate occasions. Surprisingly none during the day (~100 at the time) all happened at night. I would drive somewhere with the A/C on with no issue, however when I would get back in my car 5-30 minutes later nothing would come on. The A/C and recirculate light would come on as usual, but no air at all from the vents. I tried restarting the car, checked the fuses, nothing. Then maybe an hour or two later it would come back on. So far this has happened 4 times, with the most recent being a week ago. I took it to a dealer when it first started happening and they could not find anything out of the ordinary. The last time it happened, I drove straight to the dealer, only to have my A/C come on 50 ft from the dealer. Another odd symptom I have seen is when I switch the A/C to the off position occasionally it will come back on for two seconds and shut off. (electrical maybe?) At fan speed two it makes a quiet ticking noise that it didn't make when I first bought the car (though my '01 Accent made the same noise).
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Bought daughter a 2008 Hyundai Elantra and now that it's warm the AC doesn't work. The compressor doesn't come on but i was able to jump it from the battery and it works. Checked all fuses 2 of the three fuses work however, the third (A/Con Switch) I think is for the automatic climate control. This is manual. I added r-134 with the compressor running and it doesn't seem to circulate. Checked the pressure, Low side seems normal the high side is low.
So in a nutshell, the compressor won't work unless it's jumped from the battery and the high side of the system is low. Low side is normal. Could it be the relay? i didn't check that.
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The brake lights on my 08 Elantra aren't working, but the window light is. The bulbs are fine, although I did replace them anyways, the brake light switch isn't the problem and it isn't the fuse. Any other reason why the brake lights don't work?
My hazards and all other lights work - it is only the brake lights that aren't.
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I recently purchased a 2009 elantra and the hazards dont work but both blinkers do I need to get it inspected but it won't pass without hazard lights.
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I have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
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My rear defrost is not working. The display light on the push button switch comes on and I do hear a click when I push the button (I am assuming the solenoid) but no defrost.
I have not checked the fuse box yet but wondering if I hear the click, is it a fuse?
Also, if it could be a fuse where is it located?
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I have a 2008 Elantra Sedan Limited. The far right control knob for the direction of airflow does not work anymore. A few months back int would make a short strange noise when switching from the feet or head to defrost, etc. Then is stopped working last month and now it only blows air to the head area. Is there a cheap way to fix this? My brother who is a parts manager at a Ford dealer says it is most likely a faulty switch inside and a dealer only item.
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Have a 2009 Elantra 4 door, manual. It is at 52000 kilometers and recently in the spring changed the oil, I run Full synthetic.
Lately its been really hot and the following problem occurs, no engine light or anything. But if I start the car cold it idles no problem, nice an smooth, If I go out for a 30min drive, come back and let it idle its rough. Not crazy rough but its rougher than it should be. I have no power issues, it pulls well, never stalls. If I shut it down and wait a few hours, engine still hot, but not super hot, start her up and runs well, no rough idle.
Go out for a 15-20 min drive and park it, idles rough. I checked the usual, wires, plugs, pvc valve seems good. Engine temp is normal also. I did some searches on the site but come up mostly with cold idle issues, not great when cold not so when hot.
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I have a 2009 Elantra with a hair over 107 000 km. Recently I have been having an issue whee the EPS (Electronic Power Steering) has been randomly turn off while driving. This has occurred anywhere from once a week two twice in 10 min. It has happened immediately after starting the car or after driving for half an hour. There is no visible or audible sign when the EPS shuts off other than a small warning light on the instrument panel.
I am very worried about the safety risk this poses to me and the vehicles around me as when the EPS turns off the car is very difficult to steer, so I would like to get this fixed ASAP. What I should be looking at? Is this something I can fix myself (I'm not very car savy) or should I be taking it to a mechanic/dealership?
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Got a cel on a 2009 Elantra the other day. Put my cheapie code reader on it and got a double hit on P0441. It showed two codes, both P0441. This is the first time I got this code. I had gotten gas the day before and thought it might be from over filling or a loose gas cap like my S10. I made sure the gas cap was tight and went to reset the code. It would not reset even though the code reader said "Done". Checked today and there is only 1 P0441 code showing. Tried to reset, but the same thing. Code reader says "Done" and the code remains.
Car starts and runs fine. I see no loose wires or anything amiss. I did hit a curb a few days ago. What could I have knocked loose? Do I need to go to someone with a better code reader? Is this a drive cycle thing?
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My wife just noticed a weird sound when coming home from work this morning. When backing up, you can hear what sounds like a clicking sound coming the car. The noise doesn't happen if the car is stopped and in reverse. It starts when you start to move and the faster you go, the louder and faster the clicking is. After this, I now found out my sister's boyfriend backed into the car last night pushing it down the driveway while it was in park. From my understanding, the car moved about 6 or maybe a little more inches. There is no damage to the bumper except the part that came unclipped which I just pushed back together with my hand and it's fine. The license plate is a bit bent though. It's an 09 auto and the park break was not engaged during last night's incident. What it could be? It sounds like it's coming from the front somewhere but I can't pinpoint where. I looked at the front under the hood close to the bumper but see no physical damage. I'm thinking CV or axle.
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When sitting in Neutral or Park with the engine warm, my throttle goes from idle 650-700 right to about 2000 RPM. I have 14,000kms on it now. The fast idle works OK at RPMS between that OK when the engine is cold so it doesn't look like a ECU Problem.
There is no way that the RPM can be set lower, when attempting to go lower it drops right to idle. The dealer says the TPS is testing OK, but it never did this when new. It used to go gradually right up the scale.
What the dealer TPS testing actually measures? I suspect that it only measures the output voltage to be within requirements of 5 to .2vdc, but doesn't have anyway to measure a linear change in voltage that should be taking place when the throttle is depressed. And since the engine never tries to speed up unexpectedly except under no load conditions like this, they say it is normal and won't change the TPS.
My guess is that the TPS resistor is not working linearly and that the first part of the throttle movement doesn't change the output voltage to allow throttle setting for a lower RPM than 2000 under a no load condition only.
Remember you can only test this in park or neutral with no load and the engine warm.
Further investigation has shown that the TPS output is linear and the ECU just doesn't react to changes in voltage that will allow the engine to run at less than approx. 2000RPM under a no load condition. Apparently all the 2.0 litre engines perform the same way by design.
It would seem to indicate that safely controlling your vehicle with precise fuel adjustment in tight places is not necessary by someones standards.
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One morning my 09' Elantra didn't start. It sounded like it was only the starter running. I checked the spark and there wasn't any. I checked the fuel injector pulse and got nothing. Occasionally I could get it to start just by trying a bunch of times but never more then once in a row (or day for that matter).
I decided to replace the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The first time it took a bit but started up and ran nicely, till i turned it off. Now I'm back to a no start car and again with no spark or fuel injector pulse. It does feel like it's trying to turn over just a little bit now that i replaced the sensor.
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I got a 09 Elantra and my rear windows will not roll up.. unless I use the switches in the rear doors. So, from the front I can roll them down but not up. if i need to roll them back up I have to get out open the rear door and use the switch in that door.
I am hoping it is the switch.. but which one? the one in the front doors. or the ones in the rear doors?
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I have tried everything I know to fix the mode switch on the climate control. It's stuck in one position and I can't switch to floor or defrost. I've replaced the climate control panel and actuator and I STILL cannot get the modes to switch. I don't know what is is between the two causing it not to work. I've tried everything I know and I just can't seem to get anywhere. I only have a test light to see if voltages change and I can only get the voltage to change on one wire but none of the others.
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Throughout the summer, when the AC was off, in fact the whole system was off, the AC light would flicker on and off, but would never do this when the system was on. Today, the AC stopped working out of nowhere. We are on vacation in a warm destination, so AC would be nice, even though it is almost December. We also want to spend our money on our vacation, not AC repair.
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