Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2009 5-speed Vehicle Refuses To Start
May 1, 2010
Love the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
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I am considering bringing my 2009 Hyundai Elantra to the dealer to have the speed sensing door lock system enabled! With the system enabled do both the driver and passenger doors unlock when you put the car back in park?
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So I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
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I have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
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One morning my 09' Elantra didn't start. It sounded like it was only the starter running. I checked the spark and there wasn't any. I checked the fuel injector pulse and got nothing. Occasionally I could get it to start just by trying a bunch of times but never more then once in a row (or day for that matter).
I decided to replace the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. The first time it took a bit but started up and ran nicely, till i turned it off. Now I'm back to a no start car and again with no spark or fuel injector pulse. It does feel like it's trying to turn over just a little bit now that i replaced the sensor.
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So the situation is my battery died on my car and whenever I go to jump it the alarm goes off as soon as the cables connect. I let it sit for a minute and the alarm goes off for a period then turns off, then it starts going off again then turns off repeating this. The car wont turn over and I can't figure out how to turn off the alarm. How to get it to jump/turn off the alarm while it charges? I wont take it to the dealer to get it fixed unless its 100% something I can't do at home.
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My car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
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I smell gas when I start my vehicle. However, the smell goes away once the car warms up. Is this a concern?
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I'm a single mom and really dependent on my car for my job and my kids... I have a 1995 Chevy Camaro 6-cylinder, and I am having engine problems... in the mornings, my car starts fine, but if I drive more than a few minutes and turn it off, she doesn't want to start up again. It turns over just fine, but it sputters and refuses to stay started. After a couple of tries, I can get it going, I rev the engine, and a cloud of dark smoke (not blue and smells like gasoline) comes out. I also smell gas strongly when the engine idles after everything smooths out. Sparkplugs, fuel filter, oil, air filter, belts, hoses, all have been replaced recently, catalytic converter is only four years old, and car has 178,000 miles on it. What I may be dealing with? I'm also losing acceleration/power when I try to speed up...
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My check engine light has recently turned on in my 2004 hyundai elantra, and since it has come on my car will kick and sound like its going to stall, works but the automatic transmission refuses to shift. This inconsistent because it sometimes works fine with the light on and sometimes the light won't even turn on and everything is ok. What's wrong?
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My dad has an 09 Fwd tsi with a tiptronic that will on occasion refuse to upshift. The EPC light will come on and it will not shift into 2nd gear. Manual upshifting is possible. Usually the next time he starts the car it works fine. Recently had the throttle body replaced to no avail. Sometimes the engine light will come on as well and the engine speed will not climb above 2k making it impossible to upshift.
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I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
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I'm trying to diagnose a stumbling condition in a Hyundai Elantra 2008 with 84,000 miles. Occasionally when driving between 25-40 MPH, the car will shudder/stumble - almost like the engine is trying to shut off. However, it keeps on driving after a few seconds.
I cleaned the throttle body - it was quite dirty - but the problem continues to occur.
I didn't see anything related on several searches.
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I've searched & still haven't resolved my problem.
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I have a 2006, Nissan, Altima, 3.5se. The vehicle has about 75k miles on it, and is driven about twice a week. I have had no issues until recently. The problem is the vehicle will not start. About three weeks ago I notices one of the bulbs in the headlight and fog lamps had gone out so I replaced them. (I only share this because it is the only thing that changed. Shortly there after I would go out start the car, drive a short distance, park, turn off the car, and come back 15-20 minutes later. When I went to start the car there was no electrical activity .
The battery was completely dead. I had the battery tested, and replaced, thinking this was the problem. Nope still does it. Next I changed all the fuses, thinking a fuse might be going bad, nope issue is still there. I had the new battery tested- it is good, I had the alternator tested 2 different times, it is running and charging the battery. There is nothing left on to drain the battery, as I have turned off the auto door light, unplugged all the phone chargers, and it still does it. When the car won;t start there is no electrical activity. When I go to jump start it it jump starts immediately. It does not cut off while driving. The problem is only when I go to start the vehicle. The alternator comes to mind, but it doesn't cut while the vehicle is idling or driving.
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My Taurus has developed a problem where it refuses to start. When I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over. I keep trying till the battery starts getting weak. I charge up the battery and then try it again with no luck. A neighbor suggested I get a piece of lumber and gently pound on the gas tank suggesting it might be a stuck fuel pump problem [whatever that means!]. Actually it worked once but after I drove the car all day doing errands the next morning was the same problem. That was three weeks ago.
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I've got a 99 dodge ram 1500 sport, with nearly 250k miles logged, and it refused to start up this morning.
It ran fine this past friday, aside from a horrible squealing noise it made. It has power, its getting fuel, and it coughs and sputters like it wants to start, but it refuses. How do I get this thing to come back to life?
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I have a 2010 Elantra Touring, manual transmission. At about 30,000 miles it developed an odd feature which continues through the present time with just under 50,000 miles. At any speed and on any road from time to time I suddenly get a loud interior noise like driving right next to a train running on a track. There is no vibration, just a very loud rumbling sound drowning out the radio. Goes away after a few minutes, does not recur on the same piece of road, same temperature, or same time of day. When it first occurred the dealer inspected it and though they could not hear it they divined that the aftermarket cruise control mounting bracket had become loose and was vibrating. They tightened it and the sound went away for a year but is now back louder than ever. I checked the bracket and it is tight and the dealer can find nothing loose. The bumper to bumper warranty is about to expire. I am thinking a crack in a steel bearing surface or a bad weld causing a vibration running through the body. Again I feel no actual vibration through the steering wheel.
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96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
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On Saturday afternoon of Labor Day weekend my dad's 2003 Ford F250 "died" in the parking lot at my work. It had been running fine all morning, but then I stopped by work, and when I went to leave it barely started, ran for a few seconds at a rough idle (presumably on whatever fuel was already in the system), then died and would not restart. Turned over strongly (new battery a few months ago) but no ignition. Checked the fuses and fuel pump interrupt switch, but everything was fine. Had just put 15 gallons of gas in earlier in the week so I "knew" that wasn't the problem.
When I had it towed to my mechanic. He didn't get a chance to look at it until the weekend, and called me Monday to say that it started just fine for him all weekend, but it could use some gas. I knew I should still have 12-15 gallons in there, so we came to the conclusion that someone had siphoned my gas. Monday night I picked it up, feeling dumb for not checking that more carefully, and drove to the gas station. Sure enough, the gauge registered "E" and the low fuel light was illuminated. Put in 8 gallons. Started the truck and the gauge popped up to 3/4 tank.
8 gallons is NOT 3/4 of a 32 gallon tank. It's 1/4. The original fuel was still in there! On the way home from the gas station I stopped by work to load up the lumber I had to leave there the first time it died and--you guessed it--died like before. This time the gauge definitely read 3/4 tank with the key on, so the problem was not low fuel. I didn't want to pay to have it towed again, so my mechanic said he'd come look at it when he got time. I tried to start it a few times throughout the week and on Saturday it started right up and ran strong all the way to his shop, where it continued to start every time we tried it. It could be the crank position sensor, but the confusing part is the low fuel indication.
Could the fuel gauge have gotten stuck when the truck was was pulled up on the rollback? And would it have stayed like that all the way to the gas station? I also don't think it's the fuel pump because it runs so strongly when it does start. The second time it died the gauge still read 3/4 tank so I don't think it's related. The mechanic can't fix a problem he can't reproduce, and I really need the truck to pull my 3,000lb landscape trailer on the weekends. My 2000 Wrangler isn't exactly ideal for the job! Oh yeah, the truck is stock, 5.4L gas, off-road package, tow package, extended cab, long box, auto trans, 85K miles.
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I am the owner of a 1992 ford ranger 4.0 that refuses to start. She turns over, but theres no pressure coming out of the fuel rack/valve. Might be the fuel pump but it started with a little boost about a month ago and now nothing. Head gasket and transmission have been tuned up as well! I've also checked the power distribution box, and spark plugs both seem to be doing thier job! What am i missing?!
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