Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2008 Stopped Accelerating Now Won't Start At All
Aug 28, 2015
About 2 weeks ago my Elantra began displaying the symptom of struggling to start after fueling. The check engine light came on with P0170/P0171 codes for fuel trim malfunction. Did my research and replaced the fuel pump. After this, the car struggled to start all the time until after a few days, while I was driving, the car struggled to accelerate and jerked like crazy trying to. Did more research and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. After this the car drove beautifully for about an hour and then again stopped accelerating, jerking like crazy and lost all speed. Error code P0441 Evaporative Emissions now was the only one on. I filled the gas tank (it had been low) and for another hour the car was fine and then the trouble started again. After turning it off the car would not start at all. Now I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but that did not fix it. All the relays and sensors look good. What to do next. It still won't start.
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I was driving my Accent yesterday when suddenly it shuttered and stopped accelerating, it was still on because my RPM gauge would move when I hit the gas, when I went to pull over it was very difficult almost as if my power steering was not working. Now that it is off it will not start, it cranks but will not turn over. We tried a new battery, but that did not work. What it most likely is, I have 109k miles on it.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
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I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
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I have a 2008 Hyndai Elantra with an automatic transmission. Since the first week I have had my car when the fuel is low (under a half of tank) the car tends to hesitate like it wants to stall, or momentarily shifts into a higher gear than it needs to be for the situation; the rmp's get very low. As the tank drops further below half full, the problem gets progressively worse, especially while trying to accelerate hard; i.e. entering the highway, starting from a red light, etc (times requiring a lower gear). I have brought my car to the dealer for service three times also asking them about this problem. Each time they can not replicate the problem which seems ridiculous since it is difficult to not have the problem when the tank is low.
The day I purchased my car I was speaking with another Elantra customer who was waiting for her car in the service department. She had just purchased her vehicle as well and already had to bring it in for a fuel pump recall. I believe the recall states that the fuel pump fails and causes the car to stall, sounds very similar to what my car wants to do. I have asked about this recall on my vehicle and have been told that it does not affect my car.
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I purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
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My 2007 elantra is starting to pop out of 4th gear whilst accelerating. Is there a fix for this?
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I have a 2006 elantra gt. two days ago it stopped while driving and wont start again. I towed home and brought a technician. he told me it was the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced it but still wont start. I recently changed the battery, spark plugs and timing belt. less than 2000 miles on since then.
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Throughout the summer, when the AC was off, in fact the whole system was off, the AC light would flicker on and off, but would never do this when the system was on. Today, the AC stopped working out of nowhere. We are on vacation in a warm destination, so AC would be nice, even though it is almost December. We also want to spend our money on our vacation, not AC repair.
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I purchased a 2006 Ford F-150 XLT, 5.4 3V Triton. Last Thursday my check engine light came on, so I came to this forum and found out how to retrieve the code with out a OBD. It came up as a 0301 Misfire cylinder 1-10?
I went to the dealer and they said it was cylinder one, sold me a new plug and coil pack and they installed it for a nice $$$. On my way home it started to sputter again when you give it heavy throttle, I called they told me that I should change all the plugs and Coil packs, kinda makes sense but to have all 8 plugs and coils go at once it only has 83km on it.
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Ok, I have a 2006 Ford f-150 5.4L engine. it has 88000 miles on it. Here recently it has started acting up on me. It starts shaking violently when I slightly accelerate going up hills at any speed. On level ground it doesn't do it. Going down hill it doesn't do it. When stopped it doesn't idle rough.
It does this shaking when I barely press the gas. When it starts I either let off the gas or I push the gas to the floor and it stops. What is going on? This is the first Ford I have ever known. I don't know anything about these vehicles. I have read it might be the coils and plugs but then people have told me it might be the torque converter.
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I just bought a 2006 f150 exteneded cab w/ 5.4 V-8 and it vibrates when accelerating from a stopped position but not all the time---happens more when the wheel is turned. It definitely feels like the vib is coming from the left front side. I just got it back from the shop and the mechanic told me the vibration was stemming from the rear and that he exhchanged the fluid and added anti-friction additiver but that he expects the problem to continue.
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I've had my 2006 XLT F150 (5.4L) for about a month now and have recently noticed what I can only describe as a 'smacking' sound under my truck when I accelerate quickly. It sounds as if I had something stuck to my drive shaft that is slapping the underside of my truck....except I don't. I don't think that its the timing chain because it seems to be coming from under the cab (between drivers/passenger seat maybe). I hear it most often if I try to quickly accelerate from a normal speed (50mph or so) to pass another vehicle. I do not hear it otherwise. Starts with a 'tink tink' then sounds like something hitting the underside. I'm perplexed at what this could be.
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I have a 2006 f150 5.4l, and I have developed a problem. It seems the my truck has started to skip, or "pulsate" when I am accelerating. If I really get on the gas the "pulsate" goes away. This only seems to happen around 45-50 mph. Now this is where it gets weird. I have no check engine light on, and I have checked to make sure my light is working. I brought it to a garage and they told me something about Fords having a misfire issue that sometimes doesn't trigger a check engine light. . . . . now idk about that because every misfire I have seen triggers a check engine light, but I had them replace the spark plugs anyways. And it didn't fix my problem. At this point the only thing I can think of is possibly tranny.
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I just bought a truck, it has a whining noise while accelerating, stops while letting on the gas, does not do it in neutral even if i rev up the engine. Only whines while there is some force on it, ie.. accelerating, or going up a hill at any angle, and does it from about 10-15mph- atleast 60mph.
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i just picked up an 06 f150 with 5.4l 4x4 xlt package. Love the truck as it is my 1st Ford HOWEVER..... the truck is running super rough at idle and keep getting code for cylinder 5 misfire and bank 2 lean (which i am assuming is from cyl 5). here is what i have done so far...
New Coil packs
New spark plugs
New fuel module
New fuel injector on cyl 5
Still has a "stumble" when accelerating around 45 mph and shows code for cyl 5 misfire then will then throw code for bank 2 lean.
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2008 GS460 ... When accelerating from a stop sign/stop light it get's stuck in 1st gear for about 10 - 15 seconds before it shift to second gear. I notice this as the engine rev's high and is not shifting. Shifter is in Automatic and not manual mode. Happened at least 4 times in the past 2 weeks. Dealership is unable to replicate the issue and transmission checks out fine. Guess I have to wait until transmission get's stuck in gear before I can bring it back in.
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Stock FM/CD/SAT radio that came with my Sonata, AM stopped working intermittently while FM and XM both still worked. Upgraded the radio to JVC with Bluetooth and found that AM still does not work. FM works fine as well as all other functions.
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Got a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
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I've got a used '07 gs350.. Unfortunately I bought it without doing any computer scanning to find out the faulty parts..
After I bought it I found the check vsc and check engin lights are on ! The car is skidding while I start accelerating, Nothing controls it!
I did the scanning and they told me there is an open circuit in the O2 sensor. That was right they welded the wires and the lights went off for about two days then they came back again!
I took it to them and they did the scan again. The codes are p0430 and p0420. I think they are related to catalytic converter.. They said it has leak in the EVAP system.
Does this has any deal with the Gad Cap ?! Is it really the issue is caused by the catalytic converter !!!
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