Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2008 GLS Squeals On Cold Start
Mar 26, 2014
I have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
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Been having a problem where the alt belt squeals on cold start, under heavy load and sometimes at complete random when cruising at a steady speed.
It doesn't change when my air ride compressors kick on so I'm assuming it's not the alternator. The belt and tensioner are now brand new from VW. The car has no AC, so I am using belt #066 145 933 K (21.36x1264mm). Replacing the tensioner and belt made it a little better but it's still doing it.
I'm thinking PS pump because it squeals loudly when I nail the throttle around corners. Sometimes if I'm cruising and it starts doing it a little shake of the steering wheel makes it stop.
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My car just started doing this. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm at around town driving speeds or if I'm on the highway. The car does it in both recirc (max A/C) or in normal. I want to try changing my fliter first but I don't knwo where it's located or how to do it.
The car is a 2008 Elantra with 64K miles on it.
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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It will turn over just fine but it won't start. If we wait almost exactly 10 minutes, it will start fine.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and noticed after I start it when it's cold the rpm is about 1800rpm but doesn't drop. I never really payed attention on this car but my other cars would drop after a minute or so. Is this normal on the elantra or is something wrong?
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I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
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About 2 weeks ago my Elantra began displaying the symptom of struggling to start after fueling. The check engine light came on with P0170/P0171 codes for fuel trim malfunction. Did my research and replaced the fuel pump. After this, the car struggled to start all the time until after a few days, while I was driving, the car struggled to accelerate and jerked like crazy trying to. Did more research and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. After this the car drove beautifully for about an hour and then again stopped accelerating, jerking like crazy and lost all speed. Error code P0441 Evaporative Emissions now was the only one on. I filled the gas tank (it had been low) and for another hour the car was fine and then the trouble started again. After turning it off the car would not start at all. Now I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but that did not fix it. All the relays and sensors look good. What to do next. It still won't start.
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I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
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Front driver side brake squeals on a stop and release. This is the only side that produces this noise. Brake clearance is still very good and this noise has been off and on since i bought the car in December. Car has about 25k miles on it and will be replacing brakes at 30k.
Brake issue - YouTube .....
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Recently my Elantra ac will not adjust and only blows super cold air, so I have to alternate between turning it off and on constantly. Now I discovered the heater will only blow cold air. What are the possible causes?
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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I have had a rattle that lasts 2 seconds on my 2012 Elantra for the since about 2 oil changes ago. The car has 152,000 miles on it and I've changed the oil regularly per the maintenance schedule, although not always with a Hyundai filter.
I'm strongly suspecting that this is the timing chain tensioner, but I could be wrong. Other than this, the car runs fine. I tried having the oil changed by the Hyundai dealer with the OEM oil filter and the problem appears to be a little worse. It first started to appear on cold start up after the car sat for >8 hrs or so. Now, it appears on cold start up >2 hrs. I noticed that the dealer put 5W20 in it.
I'm wondering if lower viscosity oil makes the problem worse during hot weather. It seems when the weather is colder it takes longer for it to appear. I'm wondering what my options are here. I really don't know how much $$ it is to go after the tensioner and how critical it is - the dealer said they do replace them and that doesn't always fix the problem though I'm not sure what he meant. I have read a few other posts about tensioners here, but I'm also wondering if this is an issue with the new engine.
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My moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
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2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
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Mine is just like this other owner's Elantra. Stealership say's "it normal". Surprise, surprise!
When I asked him how come my car wasn't doing it 50 miles ago and the 2013 loaner doesn't do it, his answer was "it's warrantied to 100k". I call BS. It's the timing chain tensioner or the the guides or both.
I say Hyundai knows about this and does not want to pay for warranty work because it's a costly job labor wise. Just like the Sonata's tensioner problems of the past.
2013 Hyundai Elantra Ticking noise - YouTube
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This just started yesterday on cold start and happened again this morning and this evening always after sitting for hours. I would call it a chatter sound, very distinct and only on the first start. Never heard it before. Have 97K on car, will be changing the plugs soon. Once it is warm the sound is not there on starts. It is only when starting, sounds fine once running. What would only be noisy when cold like this? Timing chain? Valves? I'm going to let others with a better sense of engines than me (my son and his friend who are mechanics) listen to it and see what they think. But it needs to be cold. Never heard such a sound on my Hondas which makes me think it may be the chain. Funny how it just came out of no where.
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I've got a 2006 Elantra with 102,xxx miles. When starting the car, especially a cold start, it ignition is rough, sometimes a jolt. It runs fine after that. What might be the issue? FYI, i replaced the spark plugs in August or so.
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When I leave the car in the parking space for a couple of days (in cold weather) and then start driving it, I notice that when I brake I hear noises (like thud.. thud...). Eventually as the engine warms up the noise goes away. I can never reproduce this at the dealer as I have to drive half an hour to the dealer and by that time the noise goes away. Should I be concerned?
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Here is the link : [URL] .....
Someone with a similar problem said it was a timing chain cover issue and someone else a cam shaft issue. It's a 2012 elantra limited 1.8L with 55000km the short block was replaced around 45000km.
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A few weeks ago I noticed a fluctuation in my car's heater. The heater blows really hot when driving, and blows cold when the car is idling or coasting. I read up on the forums to check the coolant levels, which were full since my last fluid change a few months ago. The next step seemed to be to change the thermostat. I changed the thermostat and the heater acts the same, and since then the car has begun intermittently overheating. The temperature warning will flash on for maybe about a minute, then go back off. I have been running the heater on full blast trying to keep the car from overheating.
This brings me to a couple of questions:
There's an arrow on the thermostat. Does this need to point toward the radiator, or straight up?
In moving the air cleaner housing to get to the thermostat, I lost two of the little clips that hold it shut. Is this critical?
If the thermostat is good, and the coolant levels are good, there's no air in the system and I don't have any leaks, what could this be?
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