Preparing for a timing belt replacement on a 2007 elantra. well aware of how to remove the crank pulley and do the job. My question is this : once you have the nut off, does the crank pulley come off by hand or is a puller required? came off nicely wiggling it by hand on any accent i've done, but never done this particular job with the elantra.
View 4 RepliesOk. 2007 Elantra SE about 73k miles
Woke up yesterday car wouldn't start. Engine would try and crank but no ignition. Came home for lunch tried it again, no luck. Let it crank 2 or 3 times about 30 sec. each no luck. Then all of a sudden it started right up. Shut it off and started right up again. Did this 5 or 6 times, it started right up each time.
After work I came home, tried to start it. No luck. Pumped the gas a couple of times let it crank for a while. Nothing. Then after a couple of tries, it started. Went to Autozone had the battery and charging system checked, all good. Put some gas in it and came home. All this time it started right up each time.
Later that night about 4 hours later I went to try it and no go. After about 5 minutes of repeatedly trying it came on eventually.
This morning I went out, pumped the gas twice and it started right up. Shut it off and started again about 5 times in a row. It seemed to run a little rough. Just slight shake that seems like miss or something.
What could be the problem. No check engine light. Fuel system, ignition system, some sensor??
Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
View 5 RepliesHow to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
How to remove the water pump pulley on a 2003 W8? I removed the 4 bolts but I don't want to go crazy and end up ruining it.
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to remove the AC belt off a '96 Geo Prizm. I've loosened the idler pulley adjusting bolt, per my Chilton's manual, but it doesn't loosen the belt. It's as if the pulley is stuck in the bracket. Even if I completely removed the adjusting bolt the pulley wouldn't budge. How can I unstick this thing without damaging the pulley?
View 6 RepliesI need to remove the power steering pulley on a 2001 Toyota Celica GTS to replace the pulley shaft's seal. I've got several pullers, so I figure one of them will work. But, I'm concerned that when I pull it out it could damage whatever it messes with inside. Also, I'm going to try doing this with pump on the vehicle.
View 1 RepliesWhat are the steps to remove the central console off? I am going to replace my airbag control module.
Remove the silver one first or remove the black trim first? I already removed the four screws , front 2 and back 2.
I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra (GLS, I think). I was having problems with the factory alarm, and while troubleshooting that, I found that the lock on the rear door (drivers side) works well manually, but fails (won't lock or unlock) most of the time when using the key fob or the master lock switch on the drivers door. I'm pretty sure the actuator for the door lock/latch is going bad, and I'd like to take it off the vehicle for inspection and if bad, replace it.
So, I took the door panel off, and found there is a huge aluminum cover over most of the door, with about 9 bolts holding it on. I can't seem to get it off, to gain access to the interior of the door where the actuator is mounted. I've tried the local Hyundai dealership, local auto parts stores, but how to remove it. Removing the bolts lets me pry it away enough to peek inside, but I can't find what's holding that aluminum cover on.
2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
View 2 RepliesMy car is 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Everytime I press Start/Stop button to ACC position, I get this warning message "Check stop lamp fuse" (see attached picture).
All stop lamps are working, stop lamp fuse in engine compartment is fine. How to remove this message?
99 Saturn SL2 Idling pulley broke as i turned into driveway....replace pulley the next day but now have a problem, engine will turn over but wont crank. what might i have broke or pulled loose while replacing the pulley?
View 1 RepliesSo, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
View 5 RepliesOh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
View 13 RepliesI just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 elantra with about 26,000 miles on it. I usually don't use it on weekends and on Monday's it makes a noise that lasts about 3 seconds. I believe the noise comes from a pulley that is not turning.
When this first happened, pulley had a couple of lines where paint peeled off and now the pulley has almost no black paint left. Took the car to dealer, explained how the noise only happens after not using the car for a couple of days, and they have not been able to repeat the problem, they indicate that they can't replace the pulley for this reason and that the wear on the pulley is normal.
What is causing the issue?
I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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