Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2007 - Consistent Creaking Entire Time When Wheels Are Pivoting
Jul 10, 2011
'07 Elantra GLS, around 150000 km, predominantly urban usage (city / highway).
I hear a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel to the left or right. The creaking is consistent the entire time the wheels are pivoting. Sometimes I hear the same creak when the body pitches during acceleration or deceleration. It seems to be more prevalent once the car is warmed up (after driving a few km) vs. when it's cold. There's also a bit of a dead zone in the steering control, you need to turn the wheel slightly (to the first creak) before the wheels react.
The sway bars were replaced around 6 months ago, as they had some play in them which could be heard when passing over a bump. The driver's side CV is also less than a year old. The external steering components (ball joints / sway bars / outer CV arms) appear to be in good repair with no play that can be attributed to the creaking.
My mechanic (independent - I tend not to go to my local dealer whenever possible) thinks that there is some play in the linkage between the steering column and the rack-and-pinion - the exposed universal joint behind the brake pedal does have a little bit of a wiggle to it. The noise appears to be coming from there, you can hear the creaking in the cabin as you turn, but outside, you can't really hear the creaking. He's also of the opinion that this is a very unusual symptom given the age of the car.
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Since it was about 16 months old, my 2012 Elantra Limited has been producing a creaking noise in all four wheels. It appears to be related to the brakes somehow, as I am most able to reproduce it by...
(a) braking while going over a bumpy road. (The creaks are heard when the car gets jostled even slightly and are short in duration.)
(b) braking and then turning sharply into a driveway that begins with a steep incline. (The creaks are heard while accelerating or coasting, but shortly after braking, in all four wheels as each wheel hits the incline. The creaks are long in duration.)
(c) sometimes just driving slowly over bumps.
The issue seems to improve the longer the car is driven - but it doesn't go away.
I've had the car looked at numerous times by three different dealerships. The first couldn't reproduce the issue. The second only did a visual inspection. The third worked with me as I reproduced the issue for them, found some wear and tear in the front ball joints, boots, bushings, and sway bar (and replaced them), and lubed the braking system components in all four corners of the car. Alas, the issue persists, same as before.
I've driven loaner Elantras and Sonatas and haven't had this problem with any of them. The service department at the dealership is happy to continue working with me, but cannot replace anything that isn't clearly defective or malfunctioning. (Another dealership did that and the fallout from Hyundai hit me as well as them - so I agree that this is reasonable.) For now, they're considering this problem normal body flex noise. The next step would be to get an engineer from Hyundai involved.
Is it normal? On my car, it can be VERY loud as the corners of the car move up and down - again, either while braking or shortly after braking. It now has a little over 40,000 miles and is over 4 years old.
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Light issues - YouTube
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I have an 07 2.0t m/t w/ 19's. It rides great but the other day temps got down in low 30's high 20's which is cold for Myrtle Beach, SC. When going over speed bumps I could hear creaking which sounded like it was coming from the front wheels (didn't creak when back wheels went over bump) I figured maybe it was something to do with the cold. It did this for about two days and finally on third day when going over same speed bumps the noise was gone but it was still 30degrees. It resurfaced today and temps are in the 50's. Car has about 50,000 miles but it is a CPO vehicle warrantied for another 2years/24,000.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus automatic dohc 157K. About two years ago, it started making a noise that has gotten progressively worse. It is very hard to describe. It sounds like an intermittent flopping noise that you would expect from a bad tire. What makes is strange, is that the sound is not consistent with the rotation of the wheels. It does however increase and decrease with speed, but again it's inconsistent with the wheel rotation. It does not roar, or whine like a bearing, and there is not popping noise you usually get with a bad CV joint.
It seems to subside when I turn to the right and become a little more pronounced when I turn to the left. I have new tires, a new axle and wheel bearing on the right (passenger) side of the car. The repair shop checked all of the bushings and bearings, and cannot hear the noise when it is on a lift. I also just changed the sway bar links and all the engine mounts. You can feel the floorboard bumping along with the sound, but it does not telegraph through the steering wheel. There is no shimmy or vibration.
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I bought an '08 Elantra about a month ago. A few weeks after buying it i noticed a creaking noise while turning the steering wheel to the left. It happens at low speeds or when stopped, but I haven't heard anything at high speeds. I can't tell for sure but it sounds closer to the inside of the car than the outside and will happen the entire time the steering wheel is turning to the left. No sound turning it to the right.
My brother liked my car so we test drove 3 other Elantras, 2 '08s and an '09. Two of them made the exact same noise. He ended up liking the one that didn't but after a while his started making the EXACT same noise too. I'm thinking this must be a common problem with the '07-'10 Elantras as all 4 cars had the same noise, but I can't find anything about it.
My right strut is bad and I'm having both front struts replaced Monday, so if it's something that can be done while he's doing the struts I'd like to find out before he takes everything apart so he doesn't have to do it twice.
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I have a ES 300 H that I am loving so far. I have a question about the footwell lights. Are they suppose to go out after you close the door? Mine have been staying on the entire time while I am driving. If they are suppose to go off or not.
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I have 2007 hyundai elantra se with hankook optimo h426 tires. I like the car, everything is very nice except, the tires. I'm driving a lot in the streets and when i hit a bump or pothole, the car making a lot of noises(rattling noise) coming from the suspension (all 4 wheels). The dealer check suspension and said that evrery thing is good.I also think that suspension working properly, because a can not believe that all four shocks not gonna work properly at the same time. Can be this from the low quality of the tires and if i change the tires ,this gonna solve the problem?
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My son's Elantra is making a strange sound, which seems to be coming from somewhere in the rear, underneath the vehicle (in between the wheels). I can hear it with the car parked, idling. In gear or out of gear doesn't seem to matter. It's not very loud, but it's rhythmic. I checked the engine compartment, but I can't hear it at all up there. I *think* I can hear it while driving, but it's very hard to hear over the engine and road noise while driving.
The sound reminds me of a squeaky pulley, with a period of 1-2 seconds. The car has been serviced recently, and the mechanic said it was in great shape. Mileage is ~50K.
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I have a 2007 Sonata with 99,000 miles on it. Around 4,000 miles ago I started getting a creaking noise in rear when I would slow down to a stop & then start again.
I have to drive the car for 15-20 minutes before the creaking starts. Once it starts it will happen for the entire ride. If I don't use the car for a couple of hours & then start it up again the noise goes away & doesn't return until I drive for 15-20 minutes.
After a 20 minute ride when I come to a stop the creaking happens each time you feather the breaks to a stop. The noise also occurs when you release the breaks when accelerating after stopping. It seams to coincide when the weight shifts.
Also I think I noticed that the noise is less pronounced when it is raining out.
I brought it to my local oil change guy for a state inspection & asked him to check the brakes & suspension. He said the suspension looked fine & the brakes were OK but the rotor had a hot spot that might be causing the noise. So, since the noise was driving me crazy I had the rear brakes done.
This didn't impact the noise at all. I brought it back to the same shop & spoke to the owner. They put the car on the lift & said that the rear suspension looked good & I could use rear shocks. So they replaced the shocks. This didn't impact the noise at all.
I drove it to my local Hyundai dealer. I drove it until the noise started occurring. They put it on the lift & found a loose bolt on the camber? and did an alignment. This didn't impact the noise at all.
I brought it back to the Hyundai dealer. They put it on the lift & couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then drove it for 20-25 minutes until the noise occurred & brought it back. Their mechanic drove in the car and heard the noise. We stopped in their lot and he crawled under the back of the car (not on the lift) had me rock the car up & down. He then said that the problem was the left rear upper control arm assembly. He said that he saw this at least one time on another Sonata.
What could cause a rear "suspension noise" that only occurs after you drive the car for 15-20 minutes? Also, the noise is more pronounced if you feather the brakes when you stop as opposed to just jamming them once to stop.
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I have a weird problem with my alignment. I have had this car about a year and in April put my summer wheels on. I have a staggered set of rohana's 20x9 up front and 20x10.5 in the back. When I took the factory tires off I could see inner tire wear. I figured just needed new tires cause I don't feel any pulling or known alignment issues.
After a few months I started getting a little wobble in my wheel and more road noise on the summer wheels. When I finally got it looked at just the passenger rear tire had inner wear. I took it to get aligned and the alignment shop said this thing is really good it was all in the green. They did do a little adjustment but nothing major. Showed me the print out and everything. My car is not lowered at all. I've attached pictures......
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
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Not sure if this is a common problem, but could this be a problem with the water pump/alternator?
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Anyways I look at it and I see a leak at one of the connections under the Master Cyl. Its the connection closest to the firewall. My question is there a oring in there that can be replaced or will I need to replace the entire part?
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