Elantra HD (2006-10) :: 2007 - Clutch Disengages Only At Very Bottom
Oct 28, 2014
My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
We just purchased a used 2007 Elantra sedan. Noticed it was out of washer fluid when we got home. Went to fill it and as I was pouring in the washer fluid, I could hear it running onto garage floor.
When I looked underneath, I see there is a hole, 1 1/4" in diameter in the bottom of the tank. Obviously something was supposed to go in that hole. Low fluid sensor perhaps...even though I don't have a warning light indicator on my dash. The owners manual indicates that this light indicator on certain models where equipped.
Since my model is not equipped with this feature, is there a rubber plug or grommet that should plug up this hole?
View 8 Replies
So I just bought a 2000 MK4 Jetta for a $1000, its been ok, replaced the breaks, rear calipers, swapped in new headlight socket, swapped in amber tails, new plug wires, new drive belt, water pump/ timing belt all new.
Car has 173,xxx and i drive in pretty bad traffic daily, there are times when i am going to accelerate and between 2-3k RPM it feels like the clutch disengages then re-engages for a split second. then continues to drive normal, happens 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Is this the clutch slipping? will it be fixed if i were to order a new clutch kit? I am on a budget and do all my own work, so i can't afford to buy a new clutch kit and have this not fix the problem.
Also, the car gets a little wiley on the free way, feels like its the struts, but the steering wheel vibrates a bit, i just found out the PO had different rims on the car before. So the tires might need to be balanced. I JUST Ordered new Racelands hopefully to stop the creaking/bounciness of the suspension. How to get this steering in check.
View 6 Replies
I have about 80K miles on my 2002 F-250 P/S. My AC will cool big time when I first turn it on. But, after I have been on the road for a while (20-50 miles), the AC turns hot. I noticed that the compressor clutch disengages when the engine goes over 1500-1600 RPM and when the engine slows back down, the clutch re-engages. I have had:
1. Bugs cleaned from the front.
2. Evacuated and recharged (3 times).
3. Cycling switch replaced.
All these were done by an authorized Ford dealer. But the system still gets cantankerous at cruising speed (1900-2000 RPM).
View 5 Replies
My cruise control disengages with a significant bump.
View 14 Replies
A friend just replaced my clutch in my 07 elantra and now the car wont start! it just cranks over?
View 1 Replies
A few months before warranty expired on my 2009 Elantra I began hearing squeaking noise from clutch (it is 5 speed manual). Three trips to dealer and finally they opened clutch to find bearing being dry and plate dirty - bearing lost seal and all grease leaked.
It was about 50k miles on ODO. Plate, bearing and disk (I said replace it since you are there - I paid for the disk) were installed new. All supposed to be fine... until I got home. Here is what happening.
Fork is "swinging". It does not simply seat in position when released, but you can see it moving.
Clutch - when idle speed, clutch released in neutral there is a loud rattling/grinding noise.
Now, diagnosis at the dealer. They put the car on hoist and claim the tranny is trashed as the wheels were spinning when car was off the ground with engine running and tranny in neutral.
The shaky fork - all car is shaking so this is normal - vibration from engine. Replace tranny and it should be good.
View 3 Replies
I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
View 13 Replies
I was driving and the clutch started acting strange. Before I could get home, the pedal went hard and moving was about impossible. My husband replaced the clutch, throwout bearing, and also the slave cylinder. He got everything put together and the clutch was not disengaging. We have bled the system from the master and also from the slave multiple times, about 10 over the past few months. Still we are not able to get the car moving. The pedal has pressure behind it but nothing. We have checked for leaks and have not found any.
View 5 Replies
My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
View 7 Replies
Just a heads up to all MKIV GTI owners out there, new and old. If you feel like the tension on your clutch pedal is deteriorating get it checked earlier rather than later. Because if the slave cylinder malfunctions and leaks you will be faced with a big repair bill due to the fact that the slave cylinder is located inside the tranny. Secondly because of this design, which I think is very stupid, it leaks onto the clutch assembly and can get on your clutch plate. At that point you should replace the clutch plate to prevent any further damage that might be caused by slippage. The clutch plate should not come in contact with any fluids or it will compromise the functionality.
View 2 Replies
Is there any trick to removing the rear seat bottom, or do I just need to pull each side up with enough force until it pops out? If I get my hand under the edge of the seat there seems to be a decent amount of give to it, but I don't want to break anything...
View 8 Replies
I just bought a 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT and it is my first new car. I drived it at night for the first time and noticed that the headlights were only illuminating the bottom half of my field of vision. In fact, as I drove up to the garage, there was a distinct line of top half dark, bottom half(or maybe a third) light.Is this part of a newer design of a car? A flaw? Just new car jitters and is something to get used to? It made me very uncomfortable because I wasn't able to see as much as I am used to.
View 19 Replies
Recently I took my car in for an oil change, & after that when I lock my car it doesn't always make the beep noise to let me know the alarm system is armed.
A little while after that, my alarm started to go off randomly. This happens at random times, all my doors are closed and we even took the car in to get checked(they checked the wires or something I believe because they thought it had to do with my aftermarket remote start)
I've read somewhere about people saying it could have to do with my hood switches? But truth be told I'm not very good with cars.
View 24 Replies
The alarm on my 07 Elantra is going off and I tried disconnecting the battery to no avail. What can I do to stop it from going off an keeping me from driving the car?
View 3 Replies
I have a 07 Elantra, with 300k km. most times coming to a stop it will almost stall with a few maybe 1 in 10 will actually stall if I would let it. I can control this with not actually stopping, but almost stopping, and let my foot off the brake slightly and let it move ahead slowly before coming to a complete stop. I have searched the Internet for quite a while and all I could ever find was try shifting to neutral when stopping. If I shift to neutral there is absolutely no sign of stalling, but they never said what it would be or how to fix it. Other than the stalling or almost stalling upon stopping, it idles perfectly and always starts right back up and runs fine.
View 5 Replies
As far as trouble shooting faults in the ABS - does it store fault codes and how can they be read ?
Daughter's 2007 Elantra has ABS symbol lit for a week, I took it to a car wash and used the high pressure spray to clean the wheel hub areas and that may have fixed the problem but interested if ABS fault codes are stored and can be read.
View 1 Replies
2007 Elantra GLS won't start from time to time. Battery and fuel pump replaced and still won't turn over. It just sounds like it's trying then dies. I see similar posts but no real solution?
View 5 Replies
Ok. 2007 Elantra SE about 73k miles
Woke up yesterday car wouldn't start. Engine would try and crank but no ignition. Came home for lunch tried it again, no luck. Let it crank 2 or 3 times about 30 sec. each no luck. Then all of a sudden it started right up. Shut it off and started right up again. Did this 5 or 6 times, it started right up each time.
After work I came home, tried to start it. No luck. Pumped the gas a couple of times let it crank for a while. Nothing. Then after a couple of tries, it started. Went to Autozone had the battery and charging system checked, all good. Put some gas in it and came home. All this time it started right up each time.
Later that night about 4 hours later I went to try it and no go. After about 5 minutes of repeatedly trying it came on eventually.
This morning I went out, pumped the gas twice and it started right up. Shut it off and started again about 5 times in a row. It seemed to run a little rough. Just slight shake that seems like miss or something.
What could be the problem. No check engine light. Fuel system, ignition system, some sensor??
View 1 Replies
My rear defrost is not working. The display light on the push button switch comes on and I do hear a click when I push the button (I am assuming the solenoid) but no defrost.
I have not checked the fuse box yet but wondering if I hear the click, is it a fuse?
Also, if it could be a fuse where is it located?
View 9 Replies
When braking, my car seems to break/slow down just fine...but right before the car comes to a complete stop, i hear a, dare i say, scraping/grinding noise. I found it odd. When going really slow and braking, it does it too. Otherwise, I'd say the brakes work ok. It doesn't make the sound every time when coming to a stop, but i'd say more times then not.
View 5 Replies
