I have a 2007 Elantra and I have been having problems with the clock light flickering intermittently. I took it to Hyundai and they replaced the clock unit and that hasn't fixed the problem. They said they have checked all the fuses and there isn't a problem with the fuses. What the problem might be? It is very annoying when driving, especially at night.
View 2 RepliesI recently have been having a few rather annoying issues on my 2010 Elantra.
First thing I noticed yesterday (note weather out is/was rather chilly and rainy) was that the red parking brake light was kind of flickering.. Not flashing, or staying on just flickering a tad and then going off; typically just when I first turn on the car. So of course that had me a little bit concerned.. Then when I got out of my car and locked it using the keyless entry and the lights on the car wouldn't flash, nor would the horn sound when hit twice. So I checked to see if they still flash twice when unlocking the car and they do.
Today I noticed that while driving down the road my car would occasionally unlock the doors by themselves (think its an electrical short??) and also the sound on my radio would occasionally turn up and down by itself (I know its a feature for road noise, but it did while stopped at a light too).
I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
I have a 2008 Elantra GLS and battery ran down. I hooked up a trickle charger via the cig lighter inside. Now the clock never goes off unless I unplug the trickle charger? What's up with that?
View 3 RepliesMy friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.
View 2 RepliesThis week my oil light came on, really was flickering on and off. I parked it and called the dealer, towed it just in case.
Dealer tested the oil pressure cold and hot, all is good. So they think it is the oil pressure switch, which they said was very unusual with a new vehicle (11,000km). They opened an inquiry with Hyundai, but they have not got back to the dealer yet. So they have ordered a new switch, but to replace it they said they have to remove some manifolds and stuff to get at it, so they have ordered all the caskets etc....
It only seem to flicker when at operating temperature. I really don't like to see them pull manifolds etc... on a new engine, but I need to be sure I can rely on the indicator. Right now the dealer said I have no problems driving the vehicle till the parts come in.
I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
Just going home from work and the oil light started flickering on and off, so decided to get to my local garage straight away, i pulled away from a junction and the engine started to clatter getting louder as i pulled up at the garage where it stands now.
View 15 RepliesThe clock in my 2006 Phaeton is not working. The time is correctly set in the Settings on the electronic display, but the analogue clock does not move nor light up when the internal lights are on. I was wondering if the clock had its own fuse, but there is no mention of a separate fuse for the clock in the manual. So I don't know which fuse i would need to check or what else might be causing the problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a weird situation with my sf. I start the car normally put in gear then back to park and have radio on and when shutting the car off and removing the key from the ignition. Normally everything goes out and doors unlock, But the radio, clock and dome light stayed on even with the door opened for about 10 to 15 seconds. Then it shuts off completely and unlocks the doors as usual. Did unplug the battery for 1 minute to see if the BCM could be reset and restarted with no avail it keeps acting up. The only thing that I did yesterday was to install the front left rail cover which required some fiddling with the headliner and its dome and vanity lights.
View 5 RepliesI would like to know what to do. My gf's 2007 Elantra (Saloon) keeps blowing the horn and flashing the hazard lights even though we haven't installed any alarm system on the car. It happens at times when the car is just parked. I have realised that the car might probably have a factory alarm system installed but not connected. I would like to know what to do to stop this sudden horn -blowing and hazard-light flashing. Also, I would like to know what to do if I wanted to order a transponder for the alarm system to be fixed.
View 2 RepliesI was attempting to change my trunk light to LED but when I finally finished it didn't work! I tried to re-open the trunk with my remote and that didn't work. I had to start the engine and open the trunk using the switch on the door.
When I started the car I saw the clock was not working as was the dome light.
I probably should have unhitched the (-) battery cable, but was too lazy.
I started going through the fusebox under the hood and now I'm going through the fusebox just inside the door.
My friend has a 2007 Hyundai Accent. I don't have any picture so I'll try to explain as best as I can. He has a problem with the braking light that is on the spoiler (it's an hatchback). All lights are very dim and flickering while the two bulbs on the right are solid. I believe the light assembly is dying and need to be replaced with new bulbs. The problem I have is I am not able to get to the assembly. I have the manual shop but it doesn't include instructions for the hatchback version.
There's a few black bolts/screws on the trunk lid. I removed those, but the spoiler doesn't want to move at all. I see 3 plastic trim that are beige. I believe there's more screws behind those. I don't know where the plastic holder are for the trim so I didn't try to remove them (I don't want to brake them!!). See the attached picture with the red circle for the black screws I am talking about.
2009 3.3 GLS ... Yesterday my wife told me that the battery light in her Sonata was flickering for just a fraction of a second at a time at irregular intervals. Nothing else was an issue so we didn't think much of it, started fine, no other lights.
She just called me to tell me that on her way into work it started very hard, all the lights on the dash were flashing, the engine was stumbling and wanting to quit, and the radio is no longer working.
It will be several hours until I can get to it to check it out, but my first thought is to check the grounds. I haven't worked on this vehicle in the past so exactly where to look first or any other issues I should look for...
Over the last half of the summer my A/C stopped working on three separate occasions. Surprisingly none during the day (~100 at the time) all happened at night. I would drive somewhere with the A/C on with no issue, however when I would get back in my car 5-30 minutes later nothing would come on. The A/C and recirculate light would come on as usual, but no air at all from the vents. I tried restarting the car, checked the fuses, nothing. Then maybe an hour or two later it would come back on. So far this has happened 4 times, with the most recent being a week ago. I took it to a dealer when it first started happening and they could not find anything out of the ordinary. The last time it happened, I drove straight to the dealer, only to have my A/C come on 50 ft from the dealer. Another odd symptom I have seen is when I switch the A/C to the off position occasionally it will come back on for two seconds and shut off. (electrical maybe?) At fan speed two it makes a quiet ticking noise that it didn't make when I first bought the car (though my '01 Accent made the same noise).
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Elantra. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. We've had it to the dealership and a local mechanic. No luck. No one seems to know what the problem is.
The fuel pump has been replaced, a new battery, the relay (?).
When you turn the key it either starts or.... Tries to start and it doesn't' seem electrical because if you pump the gas petal (and you get lucky) it might start after a few times of doing this.
I have a 2010 Elantra and use the aux jack all the time for my iPod. About 3 months ago it would intermittently go mono and then I would jiggle the cable going to the aux jack and it would resume stereo. Now it is full time mono through the left speakers only and I have tried to switch cables with no success.
When I was in for service, I mentioned this to the dealer and he told me it is because I was not using a "Hyundai" cable to connect. Now I know this is B.S. as it is an industry standard headphone jack. Another client at the counter said hers was doing the same thing too.
I was thinking I had to pull the aux connector out of the radio and look for a loose wire or something.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an issue where my radio turns off and on intermittently. To clarify, it will not turn itself on if the button was off. However, if I'm listening to the radio it can turn itself off and back on again multiple times. This happens on AM/FM/AM and Auxiliary. I'm assuming it happens with CD, but haven't listened to that lately.
Sometimes it happens in rapid succession, other times it's off for five minutes or more and comes back on. Other times it stays off. Sometimes it behaves as it should. It doesn't seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Is this merely a wonky fuse or something more sinister?
I have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
The trunk light works intermittently. It will run fine for about 45 seconds, then shut off for 10-15s, and cycles... Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two. Or sometimes it only shuts off once, runs fine. Then only when i close and open the door again can i get it to then shut off again in ~45 seconds.
Finally got out the voltmeter and figured out where it's coming from. It's the diode that's attached to the trunk light.
Why is a diode there? Why a diode would behave that way? or is it possibly a solder joint? I still have my standard incandescent bulb in there.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. The engine light came on intermittent and also the speed performance went down dramatically and It seems that the under the front seats are getting overheated.
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