Every time I turn my car off, I can hear a small puff of air releasing from around the engine (front grill area) if I am in front of the car (not loud but you can hear it when you are in front of the car). I have a 2013 limited USA version.
Also, how do I remove the negative battery terminal? I would like to do some lighting work and I want to stay safe doing it.
B6 Exhaust smoke issues. I'll be taking the car into the dealer for a look.
Car has 2,500 miles, and I can't see any smoke while driving. Only someone following me sees it. It's only a small white puff of smoke when I'm accelerating from a stop. I'm told it doesn't last long, and is just a small puff, not a cloud.
I have a 12 F150 with the 5.0L. it has 27000 miles on the clock. Noticed twice a small puff of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and decided to check the oil level and it was a quart low. The last oil change was done at 23000 miles and used Full Synthetic Pennzoil and a K&N filter. Called the local dealership I purchased at and they told me NOT to use full synthetic and should only be using Motorcraft semi synthetic with a Motorcraft filter. I know the dealerships will only endorse and advice Motorcraft products but what does everyone else use and think. In the meantime I added a quart of oil and all is fine.
View 5 RepliesRecently my 2013 Hyundai Elantra was subject to a hit and run. It is a new car with less than 2000 miles on it since October 2013. There was 9K in damage, most of which pertained to the back driver's side and the axle. Bumper, quarter panel, trunk floor, axle, wheel bearings, and two rims had to be replaced. Plus incidentals like tail lights and such. Because this is a new car, I received all new parts as a replacement. When the car was returned to me, the back seat kept getting wet in the rain.
After taking back to the shop twice, they finally diagnosed a small hole in the seal in a seam of the quarter panel area---something must have happened when putting everything back together. The door is fine and there is no moon / sun roof on the vehicle. I do not completely understand what this means. I know some basics about cars, but not to this level of detail. I searched by topic area and couldn't find anything that was related to this type of reason for water in the car.
Have the following questions: How a small hole in a quarter panel area would cause water to get into the back seat (on seat and floor)? What would be good things to watch out for post-fix? It is still a bit damp and rainy here, so I can't open the windows for things to dry out. Would have been nice for the collision center to dry the seats. How can I make sure mold/mildew won't develop?
I've a 01 elantra its a 2 litre tubro diesel. There is no power in the engine even to climb a small hill...
View 1 RepliesThis just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
View 11 RepliesI have an 1999 Cavalier that I got inspected in July so I'm good until next July. I had a small welding job done on the frame so it would get the inspection sticker for this year, but I'm thinking that by next year, I'll have paid enough off of my Liberty and be able to take on another car payment. In the meantime, the Cavalier has 214,000 miles on it and has something weird happening. Occasionally, I will get into the car and turn the key to start it and it makes a sound in what I think is the engine compartment.
It almost seems as if there is a small explosion in the engine and the car doesn't start. Then, I turn the key again and it starts up without a problem, no boom. This actually happened again yesterday and I'm writing now so I don't forget "how" it happened. I stopped at the school to pick up my son and shut off the car to go in. I picked him up, got in the car and that is when it happened. I had just come from my house which is a mile away, so it was a short drive to get him. I keep thinking that maybe one of the cylinders has some gas in it that is igniting when I try to start it, but not sure what could cause that. It doesn't happen all the time though, just once every couple of weeks.
Also, this car has over 200,000 miles on it and I do not believe I have ever changed the antifreeze in it. It is the orange kind that is supposed to be good up to 100,000 miles and, yes, I should have had it changed a long time ago, but I have never had any problems with it overheating or starting in the winter time so I didn't worry about it. Again, this is only once a month or maybe every few weeks, but I'll see the coolant light come on. I don't want to take this to the shop and pay them to replace the coolant, so I'm thinking I'll either do it myself. My question is...should I drain it and replace with orange coolant, green coolant, or just top it off with water?
Overall, my wife and I like the car. It feels solid, and so far we have about 950 miles on it. Today though, something weird happened.
I was driving, and we were getting on the freeway after crossing an overpass, so it the on-ramp was one of those sweeping, downhill, 270 degree curves to the right. Nothing out of the ordinary.
So I let off the gas, and I'm taking the turn, and there was this "thump!" noise - almost as though the transmission was shifting. The car shuddered. Then it did it again.
It was disconcerting, almost reminiscent of our wacky dual-clutch transmission issues we had with our 2011 Ford Fiesta. Now granted, its a bit of conjecture since I don't know what could have caused it. I wasn't going quickly enough where any stability control mechanism (ESC) should have kicked in... so I'm not sure what else could have caused it. Undoubtedly I'll be testing it again to see if I can reproduce it, but its got me concerned.
Ok try this. On your 2011-13 Elantra if your driving below 60 on backroads and the road slightly turns to the left or right when you get back to a straightaway does the wheel automatically center itself or will it stay turned in the direction you just slightly turned? My wheel stays turned in the direction of the turn and I have to manually move it back to go straight. I have a 2013 Elantra GLS Auto.
View 8 RepliesIs there a way to shut this feature off. I don't need to be told when I have to shift or down shift. I thought the manual tranny E's had the ECO button which would turn this feature off, but there's no button.
View 5 RepliesI bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
Yesterday my rear driver side turn signal just stopped working on my 2013 elantra. I replaced the bulb and it still isnt working. The front driver side turn signal is flashing at hyper speed.
The passenger side front and back turn signals work fine. Im planning on bringing my car into tomorrow for an oil change and to get this checked out hopefully it isnt an expensive fix.
When I turn on the rear wiper there is a clicking sound that comes from the front dash. (click...click... ever time the wiper goes up/down)
I could have sworn I have never heard this noise before (and it is noticeable), but the dealer says it is the relay and it is normal.
I only bring this up because in the Ford I have as a rental while the Elantra is fix makes no noise when you use the rear wiper.
2014 GT ... I'm hearing some type of noise whenever I reach an incline, accelerate or turn the car occasionally. To get a mental picture, I would imagine it sounding like a loose screw rolling to and fro inside the rear drivers side door or backseat. I've looked inside the car and don't see anything.
View 10 Replies2013 accent auto My car rolls noticeably after parking unless the ground is completely flat. Parking brakes prevents it from rolling but I don't use parking brakes every time. Another brake problem I have is thump or clunk noise I get whenever I release a brake from stop.
View 12 RepliesI might trade this '13 Elantra GT for a '14 or '15. Too many problems. I knew I shouldn't have bought a first year model.
When the engine is cold, the clutch slips. When it warms up, the clutch is strong like how it should be. Having a slipping clutch when engine is cold? My car only has 7,000 miles and I drive conservatively.
Brand new 2015 1.8l. Under load (up steep hill) engine making a rattling noise. Sounded a little like a bad bearing. Lifted hood and listened in driveway immediately after and noise seems to be coming from valve train (not ideal test as it doesn't emulate load). This is a noise that's developed in the last few miles, not from get go. It only occurs when engine is fully warmed up and under load.
View 5 RepliesThe sound is only there when the engine is under any load. If I am very careful I can raise through the RPM without the noise, but give it a little bit more gas and there it is. It sounds kind of like an exhaust leak, but I'm not sure.
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Listen closely right at 0:12-0:15. That is me accelerating for 3 seconds, and that sound like a rain stick is my engine.
2013 Elantra GT ...
I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
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