Elantra GD (2013+) :: Startup Clunk - Slow Combustion Or Back Firing In Two Cylinders
Feb 3, 2015
Last night when I started my car before heading home from work I noticed that the engine clunked a couple of times, as if it were slowly combustion or back firing in two cylinders. The car started up fine; however, I've never heard the engine do that before. I don't know if it is because it has been cold up here the last few days (-12C (10F) day time highs) or if there's something else wrong. My EGT has just under 60,000km (37,200mi).
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I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4L V8. It has 70,000 miles on it and until yesterday and has been a great truck. While driving in traffic yesterday the truck started running rough and hesitating. It through two codes - misfire cylinder 5 and misfire cylinder 6.
In response, I purchased two new coils and 8 new autolite plugs. The plug installation went smoothly and the coils all went on without incident. However, this didn't fix the problem!
The next day I found that cylinders 5, 6, 7, and 8 were all having issues. At this point I also had an "O2 stuck lean" code so I pulled the plugs and found all four brand new plugs fouled and smelling like gas and an exhaust that smelled like raw fuel. This led me to replace the O2 sensor on the drivers side. With the new O2 my lean code disappeared but I still had a rough idle.
Further troubleshooting found that injector 6 was stuck open (which presumably fouled my O2 causing it to read lean and dump fuel thus fouling all the plugs on one side). I replaced the injector and the rough idle disappeared and all seemed really well as the truck idled in my driveway.
However, as soon as I hit the road I noticed a major hesitation. The motor is also noticeably louder and has a very hard time accelerating. I'm thinking that I've plugged up my cat by dumping so much fuel in to it and the hesitation is caused by a lack of breathing - does this sound possible? How would I confirm this without replacing the cat? Anything else I should look for? I'm fairly confident I have combustion in all 8 cylinders now so I'm leaning towards intake/exhaust issues.
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I bought a 01 passat with a bad turbo I drove it home as I was getting home the STOP low oil pressure light came on and I parked it the engine had a lifter rattle but not knocking I went to start next day and Have no fire on first two cylinders (only two I checked), where to start? I pulled coil pack/plug tube out and hooked a plug in to check fire on first 2 cylinders got no spark....
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97 SL ATX - Not firing on cylinders 3 and 6; no voltage to that coil.
I've checked:
Plugs
Wires
Coils
PTU
ECU
Timing
So I guess the CAS is the next best guess. So where exactly IS the CAS...and how do i test it? Also, where is the timing mark on the crank pulley? Cams are all aligned but I didn't see a mark for the crank and don't know where I should be looking.
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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I have a '13 SE that I purchased new last year and recently I've noticed a noise in my steering when I am turning the wheel at slow speeds.
It's like a clunking or knocking noise when I turn the wheel either right or left all the way. I'm totally clueless as to what could cause this sort of noises.
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150K 2003 durango 4.7, ran like a top, backed in my driveway to eat lunch. Went to start and it sounded like it was firing on 1 or 2 cylinders give it a little gas and it died. Repeated 3 or 4 times now no fire at all. No check engine light at first now it flashes. About 30 miles with new fuel from a reputable local station tank was on reserve ( 0 miles on the overhead indicator ). All fuses are good . could it be a relay.....
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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i have a 1999 F-150 2x4 witha 5.4 liter v-8 with 151,000 miles. Last week the truck began to run rough when i accelerated (ideled fine)and felt like it wasn't fireing on all cylinders and was puffing white smoke. A few minutes later the battery light came on and the truck lost all power and shut off. I replaced the battery and alternator and everything ran fine for a week. Now the issues have come back but i'm not sure the alternator and batter have gone bad again. What could be going on? Have the coils gone bad?
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OK, so I have a 2009 Elantra and have noticed that in the last 2 weeks, there is a severe rattle/clunk when I hit bumps that sounds like it is coming from the back right tire. At times it also sounds like it is coming from the seats. I just can't tell. It has been to 3 different dealers. One said they heard it and suggested it was a loose spoiler....tightened and no change. The dealer I bought it from claims they hear nothing (it is SO noisy!). I went to a dealer today who drove with me and said it may be a defect with struts, etc. They definitely heard it.
So I ask new Elantra owners..could it just be that the Elantra is noisy over bumps? Sounds like my shocks are gone. Super loud when going over bumps. My car is only 6 months old.
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I got a new '13 Elantra GL sedan with standard transmission a month ago, and I've noticed that 1st gear is very "torquey" (always jumps when mildly applying or releasing gas pedal), and there is a very notchy shift clunk from 1st to 2nd, so loud you can audibly hear the gearshift change quite significantly. The torquiness occurs for about 1st-4th gears (It's a 6-speed), but the notchy clunk doesn't occur for any other gears except 1st, and I took my friend's 2013 Veloster stickshift for a drive the other day, and his 1st gear is MUCH smoother and less jumpy.
Also, taking off in 1st is a very delicate balance and I still stall it now and then, no matter how much I focus and practice. It also feels like it's sputtering on takeoff every time, unless I really slip the clutch (which isn't a good habit to take up). Slipping the clutch for reverse is necessary unless I want a very jumpy, very grindy and clankery (is that a word? lol) reverse.
Is this an issue with Elantra sedans in general for stickshift models, or is it a problem with my specific car? Should I bring it into the dealer?
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra that I purchased in early July, which now has around 5500 miles. Sometime within the past couple of months, I noticed a dull clunk that occurs within the first 100 yards or so of driving. This seems to happen only when the car has not been driven for a few hours (although it seems more frequent lately), and it sounds as if something has dropped from the bottom of the car, between the front seats.
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I'm getting a "thunk" or "clunk" noise when driving over bumps/patched/uneven roads in my Elantra GT.
It's a hollow noise, I don't hear it unless I hit a bump/patch in the road. Doesn't have to be a large bump.
25k miles, Automatic Transmission. it almost seems to be one side (right) more than the other.
Is this a common issue for this model/year? What was the cause?
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I had a creaking in the sunroof that the dealer resolved a while ago but now have one or 2 rattles from the inside back area (maybe the hatch) even on small bumps. I already took everything out except the spare tire and don't think that is it.
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Just bought a new 2013 Elantra Limited. Love the car but........ very frustrated with the back suspension skipping around. Time to time my dad has to use the car but he is getting scared because the back skips around to much on the hwy ( same here). I know people are replacing the back shocks with the KYB and was wondering if i do change that would i be voiding the warranty the car only has 700 miles
Also one more thing i am getting 21mpg combined i know its still low miles and waiting to get it fully broken in but heard stories that it will not get better. If so whats the best bet to get that issue resolved. Car only has 700 miles ...
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I lend my car to my sister after doing the 60 k service a week after she couldn't start the car . She recorded the problem and later showed it to me , I Only see the rpm meter moving up and back down without firing or even crank. I asked her how did she get it to star?t she reply " I kept trying until it start it took about 10 minutes ". I had it drop off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything, but assume that it's the starter , which I doubt it , if its the starter then it would have been clicking . All terminal are tighten nothing is lose.
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1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
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Recently my 2013 Hyundai Elantra was subject to a hit and run. It is a new car with less than 2000 miles on it since October 2013. There was 9K in damage, most of which pertained to the back driver's side and the axle. Bumper, quarter panel, trunk floor, axle, wheel bearings, and two rims had to be replaced. Plus incidentals like tail lights and such. Because this is a new car, I received all new parts as a replacement. When the car was returned to me, the back seat kept getting wet in the rain.
After taking back to the shop twice, they finally diagnosed a small hole in the seal in a seam of the quarter panel area---something must have happened when putting everything back together. The door is fine and there is no moon / sun roof on the vehicle. I do not completely understand what this means. I know some basics about cars, but not to this level of detail. I searched by topic area and couldn't find anything that was related to this type of reason for water in the car.
Have the following questions: How a small hole in a quarter panel area would cause water to get into the back seat (on seat and floor)? What would be good things to watch out for post-fix? It is still a bit damp and rainy here, so I can't open the windows for things to dry out. Would have been nice for the collision center to dry the seats. How can I make sure mold/mildew won't develop?
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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