Elantra GD (2013+) :: Spoiler High Stop Brake Light Has Heavy Condensation
Jul 8, 2015
Noticed water droplets or heavy condensation in their high stop brake light (2015 model)?
I've noticed a small crack. The crack seems internal and not completely through so I don't think that is the reason. There also seems to be a vent around the water washer nozzle which should allow the light to dry out. It just seems to be taking days! Do that gap around the washer nozzle is intact a vent or are theses lights sealed. My one is the LED version.
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Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
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I just got some condensation in my driver side tail light.... It just rained heavily and then I washed it BC I just got the opti coat done.... Wanted to see the opi work!!!! Anyways now I have this condensation....I have the dark cherry red non led.... I have the JL stealthbox installed... Never happened before had the car about a year now?
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I think something is wrong with my brake. I only have less than 3k miles on my 2012 Elantra GLS. But now, when I apply brake to stop from either a very low speed or high speed, I always hear a clear click (only one) sound which probably comes from under the car or brake pad (front driver's side). It sounds like metals collision. When idling, applying brake does not make any sound.
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Why do the GT's drip water out of a little hose under the car? Condensation drain of some sort? Seems like it would be messy in a garage, though I guess it's just water, I think...
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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I noticed it a few days ago. little droplets all along the bottom edge of the third brake light. wanted to see if it was common or normal before i start dealing with the dealership. and...as always...
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I have problem with my brake system. When is comes to last 10 feet to a stop light always make this squeaky noise/high pitch noise. Brought it to the dealer for few times and they said this is a high-performance brake that's why there is these type of sound. I have a 2014 IS350.
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My Golf R has had this issue (I didn't see much from searching). I have a significant amount of condensation in my third brake light so I called the service department at my local VW dealer and basically was told that this is normal and they won't replace under warranty. They claim the light is vented which allows for moisture to build up. This seems like a bit of a design flaw though and would eventually cause some or all of the LEDs to burn out in the light.
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I have a Subaru Forester 2006. This year, noticed condensation in driver's side headlight after a heavy rain. Not too long after, the headlight blew. (My headlights have been blowing at a frightening rate, but that might be a different thread for another time.). We changed the light and did our best to dry out the inside of the housing. We also checked for leaks by blowing air into the housing, with no luck at finding anything obvious. We put a little flashing on the inside, thinking there might be a problem with the rubber gasket.
Next rain, same problem. We also noticed in a parking lot another Forester, similar vintage, with condensation in both of its headlights. Is this a known problem...
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We camped last week in our 2008 prius in the high rockies, high enough that we decided to close all windows to keep warmer. Don't recommend that you do that.
In the morning the front windshield and rear hatch had heavy interior condensation, and starting yielded the red triangular of death & no power. (Trying not to panic 100 miles from anywhere, and no cell phone service.)
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I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
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I cannot get my new 2013 ES350 into the garage over the threshold because of the low front spoiler. It doesn't have air suspension. How can I raise it an inch?
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Is there a way to easily disable the high beam DRL on the GT? Last summer I installed the i30 fog lights with DRL built into them and really have no reason to have the high beam DRL not to mention the partially lit halogen high beam looks like garbage in my opinion. Something a little better looking than a partially lit halogen?
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Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
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I just recently purchased a 2013 Elantra Coupe, and the Engine Start Stop button will not light up anymore. The small LED above the "Engine Start Stop" lettering still lights up blue or amber if it's in ACC or ON mode, but the lettering itself no longer lights up.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to stay lit while driving, but I noticed it started to flicker at various rates, and then eventually it stayed lit. Now, it's not lighting up at all. I'm wondering if there's a fuse anywhere that could be associated with this or anything I could check myself before taking it to the dealer. I haven't had a single issue getting the car to start with the button, just wondering what could be causing the lettering on it to not light up any longer.
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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I almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
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We decided to take a chance on Hyundai (never owned one before) and get an Elantra. Anyway, the car has 2,000 miles on it. My husband was in stop and go traffic today on the interstate and said the car just randomly turned itself off, out of nowhere. He started it back up and had no problems after that, but I am very concerned. It makes me question the reliability of the car to be honest. We've only had it 6 weeks! I am wondering about whether to take it immediately to the dealership or wait to see if it happens again. I don't want my husband going down a hill or something and the car randomly shuts off, so I guess safety is an issue. What would you do?
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I have a Elantra GT 2014 with about 7000 miles on it. It has been running great, pretty good gas mileage, about 28.5mpg combined. However, I do have a small irratation with it. Sometimes, during my drives, if I stop at a Red light and put my car in neutral gear, I felt the engines does a strong vibration for a few seconds sometimes. It's kinda annoying. Is that a sign of a problem for the engine in the future? or am I just being too picky?
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2013 Elantra has occasionally high engine revs at low speed. No check engine light. Transmission is not slipping .... Just high engine revs in traffic at low speed ( under 40 mph).
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