Elantra GD (2013+) :: Speedometer Needle Jitters And Doesn't Move Smoothly
Nov 19, 2014
So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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In my current speedometer the speed needle doesn't work i did everything and changed all sensors and checked all related issues and all is fine turned out the issue was with the speed gauge it self. So i bought my self a used speedometer.
Now my question is, how to dismantle the speedometer cause I want to take out the speed gauge from my old one a replace it with the new one i know its much easy to change the whole thing but I don't want to play with the mileage I have on my car.
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This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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It doesn't move back when I turn off the car anymore. I checked settings and it's set to full. I tried the middle one and nothing... Weird...
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I have a 13 elantra gt with 4k miles and I absolutely love it. The only problem I have with it is that the a/c just doesn't seem to keep the car cool enough. I have to keep it on max ac full blast "witch is incredibly loud by the way" just to keep rear passengers comfortable on the highway. I used a temperature probe and got 47 degrees f in the duct. Is that normal? It seems high to me...
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My Galaxy S3 would auto connect every time I got in the car; good thing since it was in a holster on my belt. Now I have a Galaxy Note 3 and it's paired to the Elantra but it doesn't connect on it's own. You have to touch "Elantra paired" then it says "connecting" and does. I don't see any settings on the phone that are different. I don't like to have to take it off my belt then out of the holster and manually connect every time.
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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I gotta prob with my 08 camry 83k....I bought it two months ago and def didn't notice this so think its a new prob.. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the car seems like it doesn't shift smoothly... For example if I am going at 2rpms, I will take foot off, and go to 1rpm, and then it will jerk back up to 1.5 rpm..is this normal? The dealership tells me everything is fine and I am not so sure figured to consult with the pro's ...
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Picked up the T-Reg on thur. Black w/teak V-8.! Had the factor hitch installed? Service dept indicated a change was needed in the on board computer to adjust for the additional strain that towing will put on the drive train. What may have been changed?
The trans does not seem to shift as easy as when I drove it first, it could be just the amount of time that I spent in it on the test drive run. If you leave from a stop and try to leave smoothly it is a little harsh, not as smooth as the A-6 Avant with Tiptronic that we had.
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My 2007 gs350 is acting up lately, I was on freeway doing around 70mph but speed needle only pointed at 40mph on the gauge. Could it be speed sensor?
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Noticed this at speeds below 40 MPH. My speedometer needle will wobble a small amount, but over 40 MPH its is dead steady. I have noticed this a few times.
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I almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. Starting about 4 months ago I have had intermittent problems with it not wanting to start.When you turn the key the radio and dome lights etc. come on but it is dead silence from the motor.First time it happened we ended up replacing the starter solenoid. Next time we discovered that if you "jump" the 2 posts on the solenoid (using well insulated rubber handled pliers) while turning the ignition it will start every time.Took it to a local, reputable mechanic - he is baffled. They looked at every connection and wire they could think of.It is not the battery or solenoid, as best we can tell. It does not do it all the time. It will ocur, then it will start fine for 2 weeks then happen 3 times in a row, then not happenf for say another week or two.
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Our '91's speedometer needle wobbles +/- 5mph at lower speeds, but evens out and becomes steady at higher speeds.
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When the weather is rainy or just very humid, the speedometer needle in my 2000 Accent jumps all over the place. According to the service dept. at my local dealership it is most likely the speed sensor causing the problem.
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My needle is, lets say, vibrating..when I am driving more than 50 kph my speedometer needle is vibrating ,it is dancing up and down.
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I was driving my Oldsmobile the other day and the speedometer needle seemed to "bounce" up and down and then stop. I removed the cable and it is intact I can spin it and the other end spins. I jacked the rear end up (both wheels off the ground and started it up and put it in HI. I did not see the output shaft turning. Which leads me to ask a whole bunch of questions. Can I get a new output shaft (aftermarket) or do I need to find another Hydramatic and cannibalize it. I also wonder if the fact that two years ago my speedometer cable came loose at the transmission and the road wore the end off so I replaced the core with an aftermarket one'
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Every now and then, when I start my car, the speedometer needle pegs completely to the right and then settles down and acts normally. Why does this happen and what does it indicate? The car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde.
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I have a 98 Civic with 218,000 miles. It's my around town car (the bigger more expensive car sits in the garage most of the time). The speedometer whacked out about a month ago. The needle will sit and quiver on 20 mph when I start it, when I'm going 60, and at stop lights. Suddenly, with no apparent reason the needle will jump to to the correct speed, work correctly and then as suddenly drop back to 20. I replaced the speed sensor (an easy job) and that didn't fix it. What else might be going on? Wiring harness? What would I do with the wiring? I do a lot of low level maintenance myself; oil, plugs, brakes, struts, but I've never done wiring work.
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So my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
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