I've noticed when encountering a moderate hill at 60 mph in cruise the revs might suddenly increase from 2200 to 2700 rpm, then back down slowly as I crest the hill. If I'm in manual mode it stays in 6th gear, but almost feels like a downshift. I also feel no accelerator pedal movement. Is this a two stage intake at work?
View 3 RepliesI recently bought my GL less than a week ago with under 10km on it. Its been great so far but I noticed a weird movement when shifting into 3rd gear (both up and downshifting). It started happening about 2 days into driving the car.
As I shift into third gear I feel a little kickback against the forward motion. It doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to be dependent on the car speed or the speed of my actual shifting. Although it happens a lot more when I shift quickly into third.
I've been told that 3rd and 5th gears are the longest and I might just need to get something adjusted at the dealership.
This kickback doesn't happen on any other gear except third (MAYBE I felt it a little on 5th but I may have been searching for it after being told about 3rd and 5th gear being long).
My wife was driving our Odyssey yesterday approximately 55 mph when the accelerator "all of a sudden" stopped working. The engine was running, but the car would not move. Stranded in the middle of the highway, she turn the car off and back on. The accelerator worked long enough to drive another 8 miles. We changed cars and I started the Odyssey and backed out of the parking space and put transmission into drive. The accelerator was all the way down to the floor, but the car would not move. The engine was on, but was not revving with pressure on the gas pedal.
Hauled the Odyssey to the dealer. Technician started the car and pushed the gas pedal to the floor with no result...and then the car lunged forward "all of a sudden." Technician and Service rep said "We have never seen this before." They kept the Odyssey to check it out. So, do they really know what's going on and just aren't telling me?
2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
Recently bought a 2015 Golf Tsi. i have done around 4000 miles. there has been a ticking and a "coin rubbing together" sound when accelerating until about 2200 revs. dealer could not find the solution... the car has been very jolty, and at very low idle speeds, very rough and stuttery. The video shows the ticking. Could it be an exhaust/fuel injector problem? [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesI recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
View 7 Replies2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
View 8 Replies2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
View 16 Replies2013 Elantra has occasionally high engine revs at low speed. No check engine light. Transmission is not slipping .... Just high engine revs in traffic at low speed ( under 40 mph).
View 10 RepliesMy Hyundai Avante (2011 model 1.6) suddenly loses acceleration while my foot is still pressing on the gas pedal. Every time that happens I have to raise my foot from the gas pedal and press it again to make the car accelerate. This thing happens randomly, but mostly at speed lower than 80 Km/h
I tested the car on an empty road once; I didn't raise my foot from the gas pedal this time when the car lost acceleration. The car speed dropped to zero and the RPM gauge returned to idle (i.e. around 1000 RPM).
The check engine never light up during or even after this thing occurs. Here is the list of things the mechanic tried on my car:
1-Cleaned the body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used body throttle
2- Tested the car with another used gas pedal
3-Check the fuel pressure and injection
4- Checked the sparks
5- Tested the car onboard computer.
None of the above worked!!! Here is the strange thing my mechanic discovered, if he unplugs the cable of the Anti-lock braking system in the car. The problem never occurs.
I have been driving the car for two weeks, with the ABS system unplugged. The loss of acceleration problem never happens. I am not sure what the ABS has got to do with the car acceleration.
I have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
This is my first experience with auto tranny trouble so I'm a bit out of my depth. It started a few days ago. When you put it in gear and step on the gas, the engine revs, but no forward movement. If you keep giving it gas and rev it up, it will eventually grab and off you go. This happened around town after I took it to work last week when I went out for lunch.
When I drove it home, it slipped in and out several times in town, then by the time I got out of town (maybe 5 minutes driving) it evened out and didn't slip the rest of the way home (a 45 min drive). My assumption is that once it warmed up a bit that stopped the slipping. I checked the transmission fluid when I got back from lunch, and it was a little high. I drove it again today a week later and same thing only I didn't drive it long enough for it to warm up and stop slipping like it did the other day.
Other details: The truck is a 4x4, extended cab, v6 Ford Ranger with about 175k miles on it. I've had it about 1 1/2 years and its performed great up till now.
I've had my car since April and it's worked great. Just recently, within the past few days, it's stopped displaying artist info when the iPod is connected via USB. Sometimes it will say "reading media" and other times it will display "no artist, not title" and give an incorrect track number such as 1/50. I've tried switching between apple iPod cords and no change. I really enjoy listening to my iPod for my drive to work (35+mi).
View 12 RepliesThis might be better in the section of sun-roof issues, but I could not see how to add it there. Our 2013 GT has less that 5 thousand miles on it, and we've developed a problem where on occasion the sunroof will suddenly open or close all by itself. Sometimes it will just move one way or the other 2 or 3 inches than stop. Sounds crazy, and like something that will be hard to find.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2006 CM later model Santa Fe 2.2 CDX+ 7 seater. Engine light came on last week and since then car does not shift into 4th gear. It revs very high upto 5000rpm with no increase in speed, it's limited to 30-35mph.
I had this problem back in 2010 where the Hyundai franchise identified a fault with the EGR which was replaced under warranty, and then a year later a problem with the fuel sensor which was also replaced.
I had the local garage check the EGR and give it a clean based on the steps provided by a member here - no change. So I took it to Hyundai but this time, they are reporting fault codes P0733 and P0744 which point to transmission problems. I just had a call from the garage who say they believe the gear synchromesh is jamming thus not allowing the change of gears. He said that the diagnostics report that the car is sending the gear change command correctly (pulse generator ok) so does not believe it is an electrical fault.
I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
It's great on gas below 2200 rpm. Averaging 34 combined. However whenever I'm in a situation where I need to accelerate, such as beat the yellow light, up a hill, or pass someone and I shift to a lower gear I lose 1-2 MPG at the drop of a dime. And then it takes forever to recover. What is going on here? Is the engine being flooded with fuel?
View 28 RepliesI have a 2013 elantra, manual transmission. I have about 17k miles on it and it's 8months old. For some reason my clutch pedal is really loud. At 12k my power steering rack was replaced and I wanted the clutch addressed then but they didn't address it and claimed it was fine. Then at 16k my master cylinder was replaced. Within four hours the sounds came back. They are not addressing what is making the sound properly and claim it is okay to drive on it. My issue is with all of these crazy sounds that don't belong how am I supposed to tell if there is an issue with my clutch.
I drive about 30k a year. There could be damage happening and I will be expected to pay for it because it wasn't addressed because with my clutch making sounds I won't know if there is something abnormal, usually having a sound tells you that. I also get a pull to the side some times and when it happens I feel like I don't have control of my steering for a split second. I have owned two previous hyundai vehicles, and many standard vehicles and never had these sounds from a clutch. Whether it is the bushings or not it shouldn't be making sounds. Engineering should be trying to problem solve this, but instead hyundai hands me back a defective vehicle
My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
I've got a 2008 Subaru Outback, manual transmission. When I come to a light, I may put the car in 1st gear with the clutch depressed while I wait to proceed. Then, all by itself, the accelerator revs up to about 2500 rpm for a brief moment. Then it comes down, rests for a second and then does the same thing all over again. The only thing that will make it stop is if I put the stick in neutral and release the clutch. Any way to cure this?
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