Elantra GD (2013+) :: Random Stall When Stopped At The Light
Nov 15, 2013
Yesterday after I left work, i started the car and left like i always do. It wasn't crazy cold or anything, car was sitting there all day while at work, but was around 50 degrees. Anyways, i got about 2 blocks and came to a light to take a right, when i stopped at the light the car just died!?!?! I was like WTF...all the lights were lit up on the dash, i tried to start it, nada. I then put it in Park, and tried and it started right up. Got home no problems, went out after work, no problems, got to work no problems?!?!?!? Just curious, gonna call them today as i am due for an oil change...
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
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I've had my car since April and it's worked great. Just recently, within the past few days, it's stopped displaying artist info when the iPod is connected via USB. Sometimes it will say "reading media" and other times it will display "no artist, not title" and give an incorrect track number such as 1/50. I've tried switching between apple iPod cords and no change. I really enjoy listening to my iPod for my drive to work (35+mi).
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I have a 2013 elantra gt. Recently my steering wheel controls just stopped working, I'm over miles on the warranty so if I take it to the dealer it'll cost a fortune. I looked through the manual to see if I can find what fuse the controls would be on but I can't seem to figure it out. I'm hoping it's just a fuse issue not electrical. How to fix it.. My ocd is kicking in cause I can't change the trip back to miles to empty. What fuses to check. My next idea was to beat up the steering wheel...
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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I bought a brand new 2013 elantra last year and currently has 20,000 miles on it. I had custom halos installed as my lights that turn on automatically when the car is on and is on continuously. I also have hids installed into the headlights.
Last week my battery sign came on when I turned the car on and after driving about 20 minutes the car completely stopped and did not turn on. Took it to the dealership and they first denied me warranty saying because of all the aftermarket stuff we cant touch this car for free. So I paid for the diagnostic which was $102 and after they told me that your alternator fried but they are not sure why. Would it be because of the halos and hids??
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2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
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Just had a new issue pop up - sometimes, when making a sharp left turn when the engine RPM is low (going into driveway, turning at a stop sign), the engine will suddenly die. It seems to be running fine otherwise, it does not idle rough, and the idle RPM is around 600-700. It never dies on the highway or higher speeds, yet anyway.
I do notice that my power steering pump is making a little noise. It is an aftermarket pump. The steering assist seems to work fine though.
I recently had the spark plugs, valve cover gasket, and a fuel pressure sensor replaced. As I understand it, the mechanics checked the fuel pump and it was working fine.
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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We have a 1999 4Runner with the V6 engine, auto tranny, and 230k miles. For going on a year now the engine will occasionally stall when at idle…usually happening at stop lights. The engine starts right back up. This may occur once every other month or once a week for several weeks. Stalling has occurred with warm engine and cold engine, during raining/damp period and when dry. Never has the check engine light come on or has it generated fault codes. Dealer can’t find anything wrong. We’ve replaced Air Idle Control Sensor (OEM), Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Airflow Sensor, and cleaned the throttle body. Plug wires and timing belt were replaced a couple of years ago. Other than this one issue it runs great. What to try next.
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I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
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Not sure it is a problem. In fact i don't think it is, but I noticed it the other day when I felt a slight jerkiness when reversing.
The ECO quickly blinks whenever I hold the break down while not moving, but when I let off the break it doesn't flash. Normal?
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So I've noticed that when I am stopped and press the brake pedal all the way the traction control light comes on.
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Throughout the summer, when the AC was off, in fact the whole system was off, the AC light would flicker on and off, but would never do this when the system was on. Today, the AC stopped working out of nowhere. We are on vacation in a warm destination, so AC would be nice, even though it is almost December. We also want to spend our money on our vacation, not AC repair.
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I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that's just about to hit the 100,000-mile mark. My problem is when stopped, the car feels like it wants to stall, but only when the AC/Heater/Defrost is on. Also, when it starts to act up, the heater stops working, leaving only the fan to blow air around. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to make me turn off the heater or whatever I'm using when I come to a red light. It just started doing this and I just wanted to have a rough idea as to what it was before I took it to a mechanic.
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My daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
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The trunk light works intermittently. It will run fine for about 45 seconds, then shut off for 10-15s, and cycles... Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two. Or sometimes it only shuts off once, runs fine. Then only when i close and open the door again can i get it to then shut off again in ~45 seconds.
Finally got out the voltmeter and figured out where it's coming from. It's the diode that's attached to the trunk light.
Why is a diode there? Why a diode would behave that way? or is it possibly a solder joint? I still have my standard incandescent bulb in there.
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So here in the Northeast, we are under a deep freeze. This morning I came out (4 degrees) and my "warning low tire pressure" light was on. I got out and the tires looked fine. I have no gage. I stopped and put a little air in anyway and still was on. I also was having new tires put on today and I picked the car up and thel ight is still on. I drove away from Mavis without realizing this. But, the tires are all inflated and I am sure they inflated to factory specs. Maybe the TPMS needs to be reset? Is there a way to reset the light? I didn't see it in the manual on how to do it.
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I have a trunk light that seems to work only half the time.... maybe less. It is a 2013 elantra limited and i have brought it to the dealership and had them look at it and was told that it worked for them every time.... would having stuff in the trunk cause an issue, possibly they emptied it out and i keep stuff in it? Looking for a wiring schematic or know where or how the switch operates?
(Also was intermittent with stock bulbs and replaced with the exledusa 6k LED's and still same issue... should i take that out as well and put stock light back in when going to the dealership incase they try to blame it on the LED? can they?)
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So I'm driving my kids to school, and this light pops up on the dash (with a chime, of course). So for fun, I had my son pull out the owners manual and look for it.
It isn't in the manual.. In fact, the book shows NOTHING in that cluster location.
Luckily I got a picture of it, 'cause it disappeared after about 20 minutes.
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