Elantra GD (2013+) :: RPMs Too High - Cannot Shift Into 1st Gear
Mar 21, 2013
Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
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2013 Elantra GT ... Odd sound when shifts at higher RPMs. Like a chirp, or a tiny blow off valve from an old home turboed civic. Some sort of leak? When the engine is under load, it sounds like I may have some sort of minor exhaust leak, though that is nowhere near audible in the video. Very curious as to what this is.
[URL] ...
Listen right at 0:14 when it shifts.
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I am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
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My 4.65L V8 Explorer has an issue in low gear - RPMS rev high but car doesn't shift up.. eventually "catches" with a jerk but the OD Light started flashing and the Systems Screen reads Check Transmission. Light goes out and message goes away after turning car off and restarting. Had one Tech look at it - he said second gear is toast and need full transmission rebuild. Another Ford Tech looked and could just be solenoid needing replacement and advised to have a transmission service (not a flush) done....
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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I got a new '13 Elantra GL sedan with standard transmission a month ago, and I've noticed that 1st gear is very "torquey" (always jumps when mildly applying or releasing gas pedal), and there is a very notchy shift clunk from 1st to 2nd, so loud you can audibly hear the gearshift change quite significantly. The torquiness occurs for about 1st-4th gears (It's a 6-speed), but the notchy clunk doesn't occur for any other gears except 1st, and I took my friend's 2013 Veloster stickshift for a drive the other day, and his 1st gear is MUCH smoother and less jumpy.
Also, taking off in 1st is a very delicate balance and I still stall it now and then, no matter how much I focus and practice. It also feels like it's sputtering on takeoff every time, unless I really slip the clutch (which isn't a good habit to take up). Slipping the clutch for reverse is necessary unless I want a very jumpy, very grindy and clankery (is that a word? lol) reverse.
Is this an issue with Elantra sedans in general for stickshift models, or is it a problem with my specific car? Should I bring it into the dealer?
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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So after my 500 mile break in I decide to see what my new set up is made of. Had the kinetics stage 3 and the south bend stage 3 clutch installed. Did my first launch...everything went great. Got just a little bit of spin and the car took off like a scud missile. Right as Im going to shift into second my Rpms go down fast. No weird noises no metallic sounds nothing. No fluid under the car. Only a slight clutch smell nothing crazy. Car wouldn't go into gear. Shut the car off and it goes into gear.
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My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
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My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
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So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
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The car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
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2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
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I have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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So dont know whats going on, but after my santa fe sat for a day, I went to go for a drive and when I left the house, the tranny slipped in 1st gear at around 3k rpms. The rpms just shot up, hammered into 2nd, then drove off as normal.
I couldn't get it to repeat it after that.
Facts:
-Car in eco mode
-Car sat for at least 24 hours
-Outside temp 70F
-slippage happened on takeoff at 3k rpm
-No CEL's
-around 11500 miles
What it could be? Should i take it in to hyundai? OR wait and see how it drives the next couple days.
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I have owned my 2008 Elantra for 8 months. I am the second owner and the car has 75K highway miles. I would like to know what the RPM is supposed to be at WOT (getting onto highway).
I have seen it go to almost 7K before shifting. That does not seem normal as redline is 6.5k The trans fluid was changed (by me) with the correct, recommended fluid at 60K. That did not change the characteristics of the high shift points at all. It seems to be just fine with normal city driving, very smooth. A great car overall and I don't want to screw it up as I drive on the highway every day and need WOT to get into 80 MPH traffic.
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My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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My 2013 Elantra won't shift out of park. I know that I should check fuses, but what fuses might be associated with this. (The brake lights are not affected)...
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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